I agree the GS1000 is a well balanced bike perhaps even more so than the 82/83 1100, but after swapping mine to radials and more modern brakes I would never go back either.
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Dynatek DS3-2 Electronic Ignition
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I had always run one size over on the back tire. With this last change to the Shinko 230 Tourmaster tires, I went one size over, front and rear, and I have to say it handles better than it has a right to. The newer brakes will be a next future project.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostI had always run one size over on the back tire. With this last change to the Shinko 230 Tourmaster tires, I went one size over, front and rear, and I have to say it handles better than it has a right to. The newer brakes will be a next future project.
Not quite the same as the 120/70-17(3.5" wheel) and the 180/55-17(5.5" wheel) which are pretty standard sport setup but it is close and probably all the old GS1100ED needs.
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GSOH
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostYou can tie the (+) feed for the Dyna into either. The Dyna S is a 3-wire connection; red (+12V) wire, and a ground for each coil. Grounding is through the plate. Couldn't be much easier.
Not sure what the advantage would be to a coil relay mod for each coil independently, but it shouldn't be a big deal. Just pick one and tie the red +12V into the same wire feeding the coil.
1) my bolt to hold the advancer and magnet it too short. Thinking I can just go get similar allen head bolt about 5/8" longer.
2) After I disconnected the signal generator, there are two plugs coming out of the ignitor box, one of which goes to the signal generator (black plug), the other (pink plug) going where I do not know. What do I do with the pink plug?
pix of plugs:
closeup of pink plug:
pix of ignitor box just in case anyone wants to see it:
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mike_of_bbg
You can just cover and tuck the plugs if you wish to leave the stock wiring harness unmolested. I actually used the 12V+ connector on the igniter plug as the feed for my coil relay mod. I guess you could also use that harness to connect to the coil grounds, though I just spliced in the black/white Dyna wires between the coil and their plugs (leaving the stock harness intact). Yes, it does replace the sig gen and the igniter together.
Your bolt is too short? Did you get your new rotor already? It should not be tight against the rotor. I found that the Dyna rotor and the included spacer was a bit too tall if the bolt was tightened down to allow the spacer to advance, as others have. I just sanded down the top of the rotor a few tenths of a mm. Others have looked for thinner washers to use as spacers. You want the rotor to be loose enough to advance but not so much space as to allow it to slip off of the advance unit.
Originally posted by GSOH View PostI'm anxiously awaiting my DS3-2 to come in the mail. Today I decided to take off the old ignitor and remove the signal generator as I understand it, the Dyna replaces all of this and I will no longer be needing it with the upgrade. Couple of things came up.
1) my bolt to hold the advancer and magnet it too short. Thinking I can just go get similar allen head bolt about 5/8" longer.
2) After I disconnected the signal generator, there are two plugs coming out of the ignitor box, one of which goes to the signal generator (black plug), the other (pink plug) going where I do not know. What do I do with the pink plug?
pix of plugs:
closeup of pink plug:
pix of ignitor box just in case anyone wants to see it:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qqsuqv4koc5cmby/dJBWmATQbD
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GSOH
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostYour bolt is too short? Did you get your new rotor already? It should not be tight against the rotor. I found that the Dyna rotor and the included spacer was a bit too tall if the bolt was tightened down to allow the spacer to advance, as others have. I just sanded down the top of the rotor a few tenths of a mm. Others have looked for thinner washers to use as spacers. You want the rotor to be loose enough to advance but not so much space as to allow it to slip off of the advance unit.
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GSOH
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Rodman
WOW!! This turned into one heck of a post. GSOH your mechanical advance will work and you'll be very pleased with the upgrade.
Last update on this one for me. Dyna was super quick with the out of warranty replacement and now I have a spare. They have changed the design, I noticed this on the new one and the replacement. The pickup housing is mich smaller, maybe to reduce heat mas??? Anyway this is what they look like now. Only time will tell how they hold up, good luck.
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That's quite a design change on the power modules. The plate and wiring are the same.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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GSOH
Originally posted by Rodman View PostWOW!! This turned into one heck of a post. GSOH your mechanical advance will work and you'll be very pleased with the upgrade.
They have changed the design, I noticed this on the new one and the replacement. The pickup housing is much smaller, maybe to reduce heat mas??? Anyway this is what they look like now. Only time will tell how they hold up, good luck.
BUT float needles, never once doing this, are sticking & I had fuel coming out near all four air box boot ports! WTF is that? I'm trying to help the bike here. Perhaps its something else? Jeez...
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SqDancerLynn1
Those are the regulator wires and Yes they should be fixed. But you should contact Dyna about your problem
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