Kill switch repair more issues with connectors help.

[rockhammer]

Engine wont turn over

So I took all my wiring apart to check it and it appears to be fine. As a side note this bike has only been off for about a week. Either way I check the spark plugs and I am getting a spark also. I checked the fuses and they are all good.


The only thing I did to it was swap out kill switch and it appears I did it all right but the damn thing wont turn over now and it ran perfect last week before my old switch broke.

Any ideas on what this could be?

[chef1366]

Prime the float bowls and use choke?

[chef1366]

You are getting spark while hitting the start button. Are you getting power to the coils/ignition with the key on and the kill switch on RUN? You may of wired it so you only power the ignition with the start button pushed.

[rockhammer]

Prime

Prime the float bowls and use choke?

How long do I prime them?

[rockhammer]

You are getting spark while hitting the start button. Are you getting power to the coils/ignition with the key on and the kill switch on RUN? You may of wired it so you only power the ignition with the start button pushed.

I pulled all the plugs grounded them and they all sparked. Is that a decent way to test or should I do some thing else?

[posplayr]

I pulled all the plugs grounded them and they all sparked. Is that a decent way to test or should I do some thing else?

Checking spark is a functional test; check the voltage at the coils. Needs to be over 11 volts unless your battery is way low. Don't want to drop more than about 1 volts from battery to coil. It will make the bike hard to start.

[chef1366]

What got her started? Someone may learn from this.

[rockhammer]

What fixed my mount.

What got her started? Someone may learn from this.

I had the O/W wires connected back ward. Two O/W on both switch side and bike side were back wards. When I checked the kill switch to figure out which o/w line was to connect to the red tagged o/w bike side line I initially was not pressing the ignition button hard enough and I was getting a false reading on which one to connect to the red tagged line. I ended up taking all my new connection apart and conducting a continuity test on each connection one at a time to make sure they were all done properly. I then re tested the kill switch connections and pressed the ignition button with a little more force and found I had the two o/w connectors backward. I also installed new Daytona bars on the bike and had them on with the tank for a while. The throttle cable was too long for these bars and when I pulled it into the frame there was a sever bend in it. This was pulling on the throttle cable for at least 15 mins before I tried to start it. I took the tank off to check my connections again because it still would not start even after I realize my first mistake. I left to eat dinner to take a brake however, I needed a brake, I was getting frustrated. I was gone for about hour and a half. While I was gone I put the bike on a 1 amp charger to charge the battery back up, it lost charge while I tried to start it so many times. I also took the tank off again. Once I got home I put the tank back on and tried to start her and she started right up at like 5000 rpms. I turned down the choke and she still was up their. I saw the throttle cable and pulled her out to take the bend out and she dropped in idle to 1500 rmps. I was stoked. Turned her off and took the tank off re shrunk wrapped all my connections, re wrapped my shrink wraps, re installed coil and zip tied harness. Put the tank back on, seat and started her right back up. Put on my helmet and went for a short ride to feel my new bars. Thanks members. You rock.

[eil]

Hey, glad you got it running!