Help me understand stator "quick test" results

[Guest]

OK, decided to do a quick check of my charging system since I just replaced a bad battery with a brand new one. The battery I replaced was the one in there when I bought the bike last year.

I was having a little trouble getting consistent readings. Was hoping you guys could chime in, I suppose the next step is to do the full stator test. Here are my results, I started the test with a fully charged battery (fresh off the trickle charger).

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts
12.9v

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
12.24v

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
Seemed to settle at 12.95v

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
~13.2 - 13.8v. I got a couple of different readings at this RPM... but the higher one may have been when coming down from higher RPM or maybe my first measurement didn't have the best contact on the leads...

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts
Reading I got here was ~13.8v <-- this one has me slightly concerned.

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
13.2v

I want to clarify that I have been keeping an eye on it by doing some basic observation... for example, I'd ride the bike for a week (a few rides throughout the week) then plug in the trickle charger and observe how long it took to get to a full charge. Generally it seemed to take about an hour or less, which seems to indicate that the battery is holding a charge. Especially considering that it took quite a bit longer to get the battery from around 70% to full when it was brand new, off the shelf.

What do you guys think? time to dive in a little more and investigate? OR does it seem that things are OK

[bccap]

Judging by some of the odd readings I got when checking and then installing a new r/r on my bike. I'd say your readings are fine. The slightly low reading at 5000 rpm may just be your meter. I wouldn't worry about it. Unplug and clean up a few connections including the battery ones and you might find your missing .2 or so volts.

[mustangflyr]

Judging by some of the odd readings I got when checking and then installing a new r/r on my bike. I'd say your readings are fine. The slightly low reading at 5000 rpm may just be your meter. I wouldn't worry about it. Unplug and clean up a few connections including the battery ones and you might find your missing .2 or so volts.

Also hook up a digital volt meter to the battery and ride it. That will provide an accurate picture of how your charging system is, makes the Quick Test much easier and gives real world info.

[Dogma]

The Kanadian is korrect. Your bike is charging. The numbers quoted in the Stator Papers are for a stock charging system, and not all the stock systems are identical. So, there will be some variation, even outside the specified ranges. Especially it you have an aftermarket regulator.

The bottom line is, you want roughly 13-15 volts anytime any vehicle is charging a 12V battery. More can damage the battery, less won't charge it reliably. Clean and protect all the connections and grounds in the charging system and just go enjoy the bike. Put a meter on it periodically to get to know its normal habits and make sure connections aren't getting dirty. That's when the expensive problems happen. The dirty connections cause the regulator to get bad readings on the state of charge, and things get destroyed when it tries to regulate.

[exzachtly1]

Cool, thanks guys. It's reassuring to hear all that; will take the suggestions and make sure to keep an eye on everything in the future.

[posplayr]

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5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts
Reading I got here was ~13.8v <-- this one has me slightly concerned.

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
13.2v

I want to clarify that I have been keeping an eye on it by doing some basic observation... for example, I'd ride the bike for a week (a few rides throughout the week) then plug in the trickle charger and observe how long it took to get to a full charge. Generally it seemed to take about an hour or less, which seems to indicate that the battery is holding a charge. Especially considering that it took quite a bit longer to get the battery from around 70% to full when it was brand new, off the shelf.

What do you guys think? time to dive in a little more and investigate? OR does it seem that things are OK

Good news is that your charging systems seems fully functional, The battery tests well if not a little low and the voltage rose after tuning the system off which also indicates a net charge input into the battery.

I think you are also wise to suspect the low voltage (under 14V) at 5K RPM.
Most all R/R's should charge at 14.2-14.5 and if you are not getting there it is usually bad connections.

With the good results of the Quick test, I would only suggest doing the Modified Phase A test to isolate what the actual voltage drops are on your + and - side of the connections between the battery and R/R.

If you have done maintenance and added grounds , it is probably on the plus side.

Make sure you do these two tests and report the results for diagnosis.
STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP
STEP #3 MEASURE NEGATIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP


Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y

ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES

The most important thing to do checks at 5000 RPM which is typical cruising speed. You might find that you will need to clean your fuse box to get the positive side voltage drops below 0.2V at 5000 RPM. In steps #1 above you should of gotten most of the connections between the R/R(+) to battery (+) in good shape except the fuse box.

[exzachtly1]

Good news is that your charging systems seems fully functional, The battery tests well if not a little low and the voltage rose after tuning the system off which also indicates a net charge input into the battery.

I think you are also wise to suspect the low voltage (under 14V) at 5K RPM.
Most all R/R's should charge at 14.2-14.5 and if you are not getting there it is usually bad connections.

With the good results of the Quick test, I would only suggest doing the Modified Phase A test to isolate what the actual voltage drops are on your + and - side of the connections between the battery and R/R.

If you have done maintenance and added grounds , it is probably on the plus side.

Thank you, I will do this test soon I think.