Dyna S timing question 78 gs1000

[OldVet66]

I just timed mine because I had a module go bad and used another power module plate off a project bike. I did notice that the old plate when timed was almost to the screw stops turning the plate clockwise. The plate off the project bike timed with the screws slightly left of center of the slots giving more range, indicating to me that it might be possible to get a module plate from the factory where the 1-4 module might need to be adjusted slightly with the Allen screws to allow 2-3 the range to hit the timing mark. I will get a chance to see if there is any difference in positions of a third module plate on the same bike because Dynatek has offered to replace my out of warranty module plate for cost and I need this current borrowed plate back on the project bike. You certainly have all the information you need now to do a perfect job of timing it. Then you can forget about it, it won't change. You might want to mark the plate and motor case. You never know if you will have to remove it for some reason. I used my mark to gestimate the new plate position and it was close enough for the bike to fire right up.

[MAC10]

Dyna S knocking sound, 1 cylinder cuts out over 2000

So, I have the dyna s working perfectly as far as timing goes. Using a timing light I tweaked it so both marks are perfectly aligned at idle, and within a hair at 2500 rpm. Sounds smooth at idle, but...

There is a rythmic knocking sound at idle, which diminishes at higher rpm. I have a video which I will post here showing it clearly. Mind you, I haven`t run the bike yet to full warmup-I will do so tomorrow on a test ride.

In testing the dyna s I ran the timing light on all four high tension leads. I noticed on number one cylinder the timing light cuts out at about 2000 rpm. I wiggled it around to see if it was a weird connection, but that made no difference. The other three show normal timing light function all the way up as far as I went, around 4000 rpm. There is no change in engine sound or rpm, or performance that I could notice. So, do I have a bad coil or bad lead on number one. I planned to replace the coils and leads anyway, just not til next month.

Comments and suggestions are welcome

[MAC10]

Knocking sound solved

I figured it out. The knocking is cam end float. Sounds identical to videos posted on this site. So, nothing to worry about, especilly as it goes away when warm and revved. Bike has 550000 miles anyway, so there is some wear. No mechanical problems other than the normal gs noises.

Number one cylinder is tomorrows project.

[OldVet66]

Both terminals fire at the same time so it is probably the lead. If you still have the stock coils it's most likely the cap. It is hardly likely that the copper wire in the lead would go bad. It will screw off and you can snip off a little more than 1/4" and screw the cap back on. It's easier if you separate the center of the wire with an awl because the cap center is kind of blunt. If that doesn't work there are these: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=TU38-1006

[MAC10]

Thanks everyone. I clipped the lead and reset the cap twice, second time cured it. New coils leads and caps later this summer.

Took the bike for a two hour highway ride today. Electronic ignition is very smooth through the rpm range right up to 7000.

Cam end float knocking sound disappears as engine warms, gone after 15 minutes, returns if engine is shut off for 10 minutes. I deliberately paid attention to it to see how long it took. Good to know what it is, and to not have to worry about it.

[OldVet66]

Do your self a favor and get the Dyna green coils and their 8mm suppression wires, no caps needed. The difference between the Dyna coils and stock is quite nice.