1983 Suzuki GS750E

[GateKeeper]

you living in AREA 51 or close to it.....

hahahaha

[bccap]

Dude mine is an 81 with 40 original miles that was serviced YEARLY and i STILL have had to invest time and patience. What you need now is to forget riding it and get a new battery (will u ever trust this one again? nope), check all the wiring, run a few new grounds (r/r to solenoid bolt, solenoid bolt to frame by batt, frame to batt neg; engine casing to bat neg), change the barrel connectors to new spade connectors, and test the charging system.

This prevents future headache, saves money, gives you working knowledge of your bike, and solves the problem.

Forty miles !! There's got to be a story with that ?

[bccap]

When you put your new battery in you need to make some simple tests with a multi meter.
Battery reading with key off
key on
at an idle
at 5000rpm
Report back with the numbers.

Here's a little reading from the stator papers the Primer

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm

[Missile99]

Yes, the battery may be the only issue. Most likely it is not. The fix might not be very costly if one is needed.

Trust us, it is worth the down time to read the Stator Papers and take the relatively small amount of time to diagnose your charging system. Check and clean your connections and grounds if all checks out good. Wouldn't it be nice to ride without wondering? It would suck to have to add the cost of a 2nd new battery into your road-ready bike.

[mont_man22]

Woke up this morning after taking a long ride home the night previous and not charging the battery overnight and put the meter on the battery. It was at about 12.07v on the meter. Turned the key to on position and it dropped slightly to 11.8V once I started the bike it remained about the same. Took it for a 45 minute ride and let it idle for a few minutes (which it idled fine) before turning it off.

Once the bike was off I again put the meter up to the battery and got a 12V reading, turned the key 11.8V and started it once more (starts smooth) and once again it read about the same. I tried to rig the meter up so it would read while i let go of the leads to rev the bike steadily at 2000 RPMS and it appeared to drop the voltage but it was hard to tell as it was fluctuating so quickly since i wasnt hanging onto the leads. Cleaned the battery terminals and solenoid terminals as they were easy to get to before i had to go to work. Bike drove to work fine so Im hoping to make it home!

[ThrottleBack]

of course it happened again, because you have yet to diagnose and repair the problem. And again I say...

Dude mine is an 81 with 40 original miles that was serviced YEARLY and i STILL have had to invest time and patience. What you need now is to forget riding it and get a new battery (will u ever trust this one again? nope), check all the wiring, run a few new grounds (r/r to solenoid bolt, solenoid bolt to frame by batt, frame to batt neg; engine casing to bat neg), change the barrel connectors to new spade connectors, and test the charging system.

This prevents future headache, saves money, gives you working knowledge of your bike, and solves the problem.

[ThrottleBack]

Forty miles !! There's got to be a story with that ?

it's in the intro forum

[Steel Toed Tank]

These bikes will run all day on a dead battery IF the stator and R/R are working fine.
If they are not working fine, then the bike will run off the stored energy in the battery, until it runs out of course.

For me, my R/R took a dump and took my stator along with it, and I was able to get an upgraded Honda R/R and a used stator from ebay for $60.

Never had a problem since.

As of right now you think a new battery may have solved your problem, but wouldn't you want to run a quick and simple test to know for sure?

Sure beats sitting on the road side waiting for AAA.

You need to follow the instruction given to you here if you want a reliable and safe bike that won't leave you stranded.

This forum is full of GS owners who at one time or another have ALL experienced the exact problems you have, and they KNOW how to check for and fix these problems with solid long-term solutions.

So run your bike through the tests in the stator papers, report back to us your numbers and we can tell you 100% for sure exactly what's going on, and how to properly fix it.

[mont_man22]

Well i fell like an idiot for not noticing this earlier... you live and you learn. Calling to try and get a fair priced R/R tomorrow locally otherwise i found them for 40-100$ online or with a one year warranty from ElectroSport

Thanks for all the help guys looks like ill be wiring up a new R/R!

[koolaid_kid]

This is why we strongly suggest you go through everything on the list. Leaving anything out will leave you stranded. We know;; we have walked that path before.

[mont_man22]

Have taken a good majority of the bike apart. Wondering now why it blew in the first place. All the rest of the wiring looks good from what i can physically see. Since the stock plastic connector is COMPLETELY fried i will have to wire the new one up. And my continued ignorance leads me to 2 further inquiries: why did it fry and when i put a new one on how the heck will i know what wires go where!

[Steel Toed Tank]

You can use the Honda ones, or a compu-fire depending on your budget.

Also since your R/R is very heavily cooked, you are going to need to test your stator as well.

Here is your cheapest good option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-MOT...ea5960&vxp=mtr Made a mistake, this IS NOT a compatible r/r

This is the current best proven option, also most costly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regu...67a3d2&vxp=mtr

One option that I believe is still being checked out on here, but looking promising is: http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...number=4012941

[Steel Toed Tank]

That melted plug won't matter, it won't be needed when you install a better regulator/rectifier.

It's very likely a dirty or corroded connector started all this.

You also NEED to test the stator as well, there is a chance it's fried.
If it is fried but you don't check it, it could fry your replacement r/r and/or leave your bike still not charging the battery.

I suggest you use the forum search feature and BassCliffs' site to read up on r/r upgrades and installations.

EDIT: Since the wiring harness is made up of many important connections that are just as old as the one that fried, you should get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease and go through cleaning and protecting them all.

If you don't, another meltdown, similar or even worse than this one is only a matter of time.

[mont_man22]

I read up on the stator papers but its diagnosing a fully assembled bike. Im sure your correct on a corroded wire. Wiring looks clean but ill have to figure out the best way to further diagnose the rest of the wiring while disassembled to make sure i wont fry a new install...

Also i found this link http://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Rect...zuki+Regulator

That melted plug won't matter, it won't be needed when you install a better regulator/rectifier.


Any thoughts?

It's very likely a dirty or corroded connector started all this.

You also NEED to test the stator as well, there is a chance it's fried.
If it is fried but you don't check it, it could fry your replacement r/r and/or leave your bike still not charging the battery.

I suggest you use the forum search feature and BassCliffs' site to read up on r/r upgrades and installations.

[Steel Toed Tank]

You can still do the stator resistance (ohms) and ground tests with the bike like that.

These bikes came with poorly designed R/Rs that caused a lot of problems, replacing it with an R/R that has a better design is the best solution.

The different R/Rs work different ways. I don't know which way the caltric ones work, but that one in the first link I sent is the most common upgrade used on this site, and that on is only $6.

Also the instructions on how to install it are specifically written for that brand and type.

EDIT: my mistake, the shindigen R/R I linked above WILL NOT work, it is for 2 phase stators, GSes have 3 phase