1983 Suzuki GS750E

[Steel Toed Tank]

Here is a link to a list and discussions about all the compatible R/Rs.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690&highlight=shindengen

[OldVet66]

Yes, please look at the more modern R/R's. The two that you found are no better than the one that failed just about guaranteeing the same thing will happen again eventually. Equally important is crimping your new connectors. The most common crimpers are useless. Match your crimping tool to the type of connector you use or get one that has interchangeable dies for different types of connectors. This link may give you a better idea (look at the Die Sets in green on the left) :http://www.vintageconnections.com/

[mont_man22]

Output seems to be fine on the Stator. Could it just have burnt out from being old and maybe have gotten fried because i was riding it?

[OldVet66]

That type of R/R just seems prone to failure. It was overcharging evident because of your boiled out battery. That can damage the stator. You had the stator cover changed. Hopefully the stator in the new cover was good. If he put your old stater in the new cover, who knows. My current bike had an overcharging condition like yours. It had blackened the stator insulation varnish but was not visibly burnt so against everyone's good advise, I used it because it tested good. I also put a CompuFire series R/R in the bike at the same time. Just about a year later, the stator failed. I replaced the stator and as of this date I have approximately 10,000 trouble free miles on the bike after the change. If I had listened, I would have changed the stator when I was advised to. Your stator is an unknown as far as a visual inspection, so with a new more modern R/R you still might have a stator failure in the future. The older R/R's even the approved ones shunt (or short) through the stator when no additional charging is needed. The series type R/R shuts off and on depending on charging requirements, allowing the stator to run cooler on the off cycles where the shunt type dogs the stator 24/7.

[mont_man22]

I am supposed to meet up with a guy tomorrow who has a voltage regulator off of an 83 GS850. It has the connector and wire leads so it would be a MUCH easier fix. He says it will work fine. Any thoughts?

[mrbill5491]

Here is how it usually plays out...clean, replace ALL bad/burnt connections, inspect/replace fuse box if need be, test battery, stator, RR. Buy new gasket, stator, Series RR install. Add a couple more ground wires. Go ride.

[nejeff]

I replaced the R/R in my 550 with a shindegen from a Honda after mine went bad. I also cleaned every connector and ADDED GROUND WIRES. You need to make very sure you do this, these bikes are not well grounded.

Another suggestion: Go to Harbor Freight and get one of those $2.99 Multimeters (sometimes they are free). Take it home, cut off the leads put on spade connectors that you can put on your battery's terminal. Connect it and bundle up the wires under there somewhere. When you need to have a quick glance at your volts output just plug it into the MultiMeter. This works great going 60 down the hiway so you can see what volts are being put out at 5,000rpm. I just set it up on the tank and secure it with some tape

[Steel Toed Tank]

I am supposed to meet up with a guy tomorrow who has a voltage regulator off of an 83 GS850. It has the connector and wire leads so it would be a MUCH easier fix. He says it will work fine. Any thoughts?

You're going to replace the poorly designed stock r/r with another poorly designed stock r/r, against all the wisdom and advice you've been given here.

Well, I wish you the best electrical luck with your bike.

edit: fixed wrong word, thanks Jeff.

[nejeff]

You're going to replace the poorly designed stock stator with another poorly designed stock stator, against all the wisdom and advice you've been given here.

Well, I wish you the best electrical luck with your bike.

I think you mean poorly designed stock R/R but the point it taken. I am not necessarily a believer that the stock r/r's are always to blame, the poor grounding system and poor electrical maintenance is probably a factor as well. He knows the risks I guess...report back in with results

[mont_man22]

Still wanting to know if this will fit my bike tho... I was told it will and since it has 5 terminals one would assume its a 3 phase.

[OldVet66]

It will fit, but it is absolute junk that will end you right up where you are now and have to go through this garbage again. Enjoy

[mont_man22]

It was junk... Totally fried and total waste of my time. I'm getting an OEM from ricks motorsports. My connector piece fried as well so I will have to wire it up me-self

[platinum2]

fried wires

check under the tank, look at all the stater wires, mine were shorted out from the tank rubbing/pinching them, this is what led to the burnt r/r on mine
just get a good newer rectifier, thats the same wire codes, and youll be fine
these didnt just start dropping after they left suzukis doors, i had to fix all 3 yellow stator wires, cause they rubbed and bunrt each other, i hope this is your "simple problem"

[mont_man22]

Yea your bike looks just like mine! I just ordered an aftermarket OEM style Rectifier from Ricks motorsports. Did you have to take the tank completely off?

check under the tank, look at all the stater wires, mine were shorted out from the tank rubbing/pinching them, this is what led to the burnt r/r on mine
just get a good newer rectifier, thats the same wire codes, and youll be fine
these didnt just start dropping after they left suzukis doors, i had to fix all 3 yellow stator wires, cause they rubbed and bunrt each other, i hope this is your "simple problem"

[mont_man22]

Did a quick search but does basscliff or anyone have a quick link to cleaning grounds? Any and all papers thus far have been super helpful. Want to make sure everything is in order. Really hoping my stator still tests GOOD...