weird issue

[whenpigsfly514]

Hum, seems to be different symptoms than before.

Do you have a volt meter or test probe light?

Do you have voltage at the Ignition fuse? (The starter button and solenoid is powered by the ignition fuse.)

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I just replaced the fuses with new ones. Not getting anything at the bottom of the ignition. Tried all 4 contacts in different variations. Just to double check. Was showing nothing on the volt meter.

[Gorminrider]

...the mention of "turning" above reminds me that wiring harnesses can get pulled pretty hard then....you might look under the tank for any chafe of wires etc...?

also check out the STOP/RUN switch and wiring. It controls coils/ignition I do believe.

[whenpigsfly514]

...the mention of "turning" above reminds me that wiring harnesses can get pulled pretty hard then....you might look under the tank for any chafe of wires etc...?

also check out the STOP/RUN switch and wiring. It controls coils/ignition I do believe.

I took that apart yesterday as well. All the connections that are on the peice seemed intact. So once I put on the new ignition, if that doesn't fix it then I guess I'll replace that next.

[Hone101]

When I got my bike it did the same thing. Replaced the ignition and it worked fine.

[whenpigsfly514]

When I got my bike it did the same thing. Replaced the ignition and it worked fine.

I hope so. It's make me so frustrated. It's such a fun bike to ride when it runs.

[Redman]

Sounds like sometimes you have one problem and other times you have another problem.
Problem 1: Everything cuts out.
Problem 2: Have lights, but not other things (the other things not well defined). And when you say "have lights", do you mean headlight or instrument lights (are different fuses-circuits) or both.

SO before telling us some observation, like "no power at ignition swtich", also tell us which of the problems is occurring at that time.

Good that you have a volt meter.
When using a voltmeter and detect "no power at blah blah", is good to leave the meter negative lead wherever you have it and move positive meter lead to someplace you KNow does have power (like battery+ or the big red cable on solenoid or someother place that you know does have power). This is to test you meter setup and to test that your meter negative is actually on a ground.

If you have no power at all on any connection at the ignition swtich, meaning no power GOING TO the ignition swtich. Well, that is THE problem (for Problem 1 anyway) that you need to correct, and replacing the ignition swtich isn't going to help.
The red wire at the ignition switch is the power TO the ignition switch coming from the Main fuse. If you have no power there, then problem is either in red wire between fuce block and the ignition swtich, or in/at fuse block, at the Main fuse connections, or between battery + and fuse block.

The orange wire at ignition swtich is what should bring power back to the fuse block when key switch is on. THis orange wire is what should power the top three fuses (headlight, signal and ignition). Oh, wait, this is for models of GSs that have the 4 or 5 fuse fuse block.

81 GS550 have 4 or 5 fuses in a fuse block (not just one fuse inline in a wire somewhere)...?
And and 81 has the glass fuses, right?

Check for power on both sides of the Main fuse.

The red wire that powers the fuse block (Main fuse) usally comes from a connector mounted right with the big red cable from battery+ on the starter solenoid. So follow that to see the wire that is suppose to power the fuse block.

Tell us more what you find, and which problem you are having at the time.

.

[whenpigsfly514]

Sounds like sometimes you have one problem and other times you have another problem.
Problem 1: Everything cuts out.
Problem 2: Have lights, but not other things (the other things not well defined). And when you say "have lights", do you mean headlight or instrument lights (are different fuses-circuits) or both.

SO before telling us some observation, like "no power at ignition swtich", also tell us which of the problems is occurring at that time.

Good that you have a volt meter.
When using a voltmeter and detect "no power at blah blah", is good to leave the meter negative lead wherever you have it and move positive meter lead to someplace you KNow does have power (like battery+ or the big red cable on solenoid or someother place that you know does have power). This is to test you meter setup and to test that your meter negative is actually on a ground.

If you have no power at all on any connection at the ignition swtich, meaning no power GOING TO the ignition swtich. Well, that is THE problem (for Problem 1 anyway) that you need to correct, and replacing the ignition swtich isn't going to help.
The red wire at the ignition switch is the power TO the ignition switch coming from the Main fuse. If you have no power there, then problem is either in red wire between fuce block and the ignition swtich, or in/at fuse block, at the Main fuse connections, or between battery + and fuse block.

The orange wire at ignition swtich is what should bring power back to the fuse block when key switch is on. THis orange wire is what should power the top three fuses (headlight, signal and ignition). Oh, wait, this is for models of GSs that have the 4 or 5 fuse fuse block.

81 GS550 have 4 or 5 fuses in a fuse block (not just one fuse inline in a wire somewhere)...?
And and 81 has the glass fuses, right?

Check for power on both sides of the Main fuse.

The red wire that powers the fuse block (Main fuse) usally comes from a connector mounted right with the big red cable from battery+ on the starter solenoid. So follow that to see the wire that is suppose to power the fuse block.

Tell us more what you find, and which problem you are having at the time.

.

I have glass fuses. Just replaced them. Haven't checked the main for power yet. 4 fuses.
No signals. No gauges. Nothing light wise, except for my head light.(trying to cafe racer it)
I have power at the big red cable.

[Redman]

....I have power at the big red cable.

Now check for power at Main fuse, check at fuse clips on both sides of the fuse.

And if you can: can you get meter on the red wire coming out of fuseblock that goes to the ignition switch. if so try that too. (red wire going to ignitions switch. There are two red wires at fuse block.)
If that has power, turn on key, and see if power on orange wire coming back from key switch.
If that good then see if power at the 3 fuses (head, signal, ignition).

I think your four fuses are : Headlight, Signal (also called instrument), Ignition, and Main.
Main should be 15amp, others 10.
(on those with 5 fuses, the 5th would be Auxilary Power, but those with 5 fuses are the blade type fuse fuseblocks, 1982 and after.)

.

[whenpigsfly514]

Now check for power at Main fuse, check at fuse clips on both sides of the fuse.

And if you can: can you get meter on the red wire coming out of fuseblock that goes to the ignition switch. if so try that too. (red wire going to ignitions switch. There are two red wires at fuse block.)
If that has power, turn on key, and see if power on orange wire coming back from key switch.
If that good then see if power at the 3 fuses (head, signal, ignition).

I think your four fuses are : Headlight, Signal (also called instrument), Ignition, and Main.
Main should be 15amp, others 10.
(on those with 5 fuses, the 5th would be Auxilary Power, but those with 5 fuses are the blade type fuse fuseblocks, 1982 and after.)

.

I just ordered a new fuse block. I found mine is being held on with electrical tape, so I'm sure that doesn't help anything. Haven't checked power yet.

[whenpigsfly514]

Back from vacation.

New ignition and fuse block are in. Going to install hopefully this week, will report findings.