Blue Sea 5029 Fuse Block Modification

[Guest]

Anyone see a problem with this?

I may do it a tiny bit different only because I am re-doing the entire harness from scratch and would like to seperate systems (ie - Lighting, Indication, Power/Charging, Ignition and Accessories).

[Hakamisu]

Here's an update of what it will look like when finished, hopefully.


Can anyone tell me why the ignition turns on the lights separately from the fuse? would it matter if I fused it after the Power Sitched Relay?

EDIT - I Have no idea why I would have put ignition out after the switched power? No I will not be doing that.

[koolaid_kid]

I confess myself confused. The Blue Sea 5029 is a 12 fuse distribution block with 1 in, 12 out. At the bottom is your input. All the fuses are considered outputs. You show a disconnect between the bottom 4 fuses and the top 8 fuses. How (and why) are you going to do that?

[Killer2600]

In addition to koolaid's fine point, there's too many fuses for my liking. A fuse to the power relay, a fuse from the power relay, etc etc. Granted it works but it's very messy and overly complex.

[koolaid_kid]

Killer, I agree. It seems far too complex and should be simplified. It was not apparent what was powering the upper set of fuses either.

I use a Blue Sea 5028 on my GPz. I use what folk here call the "coil relay mod" as a generic relay mod which sends clean power from the battery as the input. I then have 6 fuses with clean power as outputs.
1 goes to the battery health wire
1 goes to the coils
1 goes to my aftermarket horns
1 goes to my grip heaters
1 goes to a generic 12V adapter. I currently use this when I have my wideband connected, but it could also be used to charge other things that need 12V, or could go to a heated vest or similar items.
1 is unused.

If you wanted to emulate a stock Suzuki fuse block, you would want at least 1 unswitched fuse, which Blue Sea does not have available. The Eastern Beaver unit does have this capability, but I refuse to pay their prices.

[Hakamisu]

It may seem unnecessarily complicated, but as I am re-doing the entire wiring harness from scratch (doing a new wiring diagram as well), it makes more sense for me to do it this way. I think it will be easier to follow once I have it all redone.

On the note of how I will separate the 2 parts of the fuse block. You just remove the back and clip a section out. It was done on another forum I found and is quite simple. Pictures will follow once I get one in.

[posplayr]

Seeing your last post, I can now see how you are segregating the switched power from unswitched. However, inline with the other comments you don't have to fuse every wire. Those are screw terminals and you can stack the commons and eliminate redundant fuses.
For example even thigh not labeled I would assume the red wire coming up from the bottom is the battery? Almost all of the 4 lower fused outputs could be ganged on to one fuse assuming it will handle a 20 amp fuse.

What connection do you need to a start relay?
You also have two fuses to the ignition?

[Hakamisu]

The reason I am separating, mostly, is I think it looks cleaner and I've been working on aircraft so long it's easier for me to work with. Again, once you see the new wiring diagram it will make a little more sense.

Also, there will be multiple wires on certain terminals as almost all items in system will be on seperate wire, don't worry, not all. Even I think that's excessive. It will just make it easier in the long run when replacing things.

[posplayr]

I guess we should all just wait till it is done. You asked before if anybody could quote you the various circuit loading and then you let on that you were in the process of led mods. I'll just sit back and see how this unfolds.

[koolaid_kid]

The Blue Sea will handle 30A per circuit, so the load capability is there.
It is a pretty big block though, 5.23 x 3.32.
It will be interesting to see the final layout.

[posplayr]

The Blue Sea will handle 30A per circuit, so the load capability is there.
It is a pretty big block though, 5.23 x 3.32.
It will be interesting to see the final layout.

I think the question was posed in the context of wire size.

[koolaid_kid]

Ah. Most of the factory wires were 18-20 gauge, and of course LEDs would pull even less current.

[Hakamisu]

Them 2 ignition lines was an accident on my part (note the EDIT).
As far as the loads are concerned, I'm looking for everything but lighting and indication really. I'm also using a wire calculator for the gauges, which is why I want amperage for different components.

[koolaid_kid]

I'll give it a first shot and we can work on it from there.
For the bottom section, top left counterclockwise to the top right:
To Starter relay - this needs to be a heavy gauge wire as the starter can easily pull 50A or more.
To ignition switch - this can be a smaller gauge, I think Suzuki used 18 gauge. The ignition switch's main function is to enable everything else.
Center is to the battery. I'd use at least 14 gauge, perhaps 12.
To power relay. This is going to carry the current for all the switched side fuses, so I would again go large, 14 gauge.
To R/R - This is the input from your charging system, go large.

I'll do the switched side in my next post.

[koolaid_kid]

Switched side, again top left counterclockwise to the right.
From power relay - this is carrying all the current for everything, go large
Lighting - this should actually be headlight. It is separate from all the other lights. Your headlight uses at least 65W on high beam, use your wire gauge calculator. Be sure and leave a little headroom.
Turn indicators - you have 4 bulbs. Check the wattage of each, add them up, convert to amps, remember you are driving the flasher as well.
Ignition - this should actually be called the Igniter. Stock uses 18 gauge wire. All it does is collapse the coils, so it does not need to be large.
Moving to the right - accessories - this is probably all your bulbs in your instruments and the driving lights. Should not be too much.
Above that you need one labeled coils. 18 gauge.