Paper-ing my Stator: Or... Electricity confuses me

[Roostabunny]

OK got the new meter and it won't power up properly - specifically it'll power up until I try to screw the battery lid back on, then it blanks out. Any pressure on the plastic under the battery (including pressure from the battery itself) sends it all wonky.

*sigh*

This past week I got an order from Amazon where one product was not the thing I ordered and the other quit working after about an hour (sending both back). Meanwhile my phone spontaneously lost the ability to send/receive data (that, I was able to fix).

Anyway, first world problems, I know, but it's just been one of those weeks.

But onward! I'll call the 800 help number that came with the meter and meanwhile I've got a buddy at work who probably has 10 high-end multi-meters at work (and a 12V charger that's come in useful the last couple of weeks) and will probably want to come outside and help me test it. I'll get it measured eventually and post back.

[tom203]

Just take it back to Sears and get another- these things don't have deluxe quality control (they rely on end user to test, i.e. you). but do read the manual before using.

[Roostabunny]

Just take it back to Sears and get another- these things don't have deluxe quality control (they rely on end user to test, i.e. you). but do read the manual before using.

There was a little slip of paper in the package with an 800 number and big bold letters that said something like "if this meter doesn't work DON'T BRING IT BACK TO THE STORE. Call this number instead."

I ended up with a friendly and reasonable tech support person, who, once he heard what I was experiencing said, "yeah, bring it back to the store". When I asked about the little slip of paper he told me that was there because they discovered that about 90%+ of returns were due to user error.

Of course, when I returned it to Sears, they had no more in stock.

So thanks to my Prime membership, Amazon will now deliver one to me overnight for $1 less delivered than I paid in the Sears store. Oh the perils of cheapskatery!

[Roostabunny]

Got the new Craftsman meter from Amazon yesterday and huzzah! It works properly!

Will take new measurements over the weekend - tonight if I can manage it. I so wish I had a garage at times like this. Light 24x7, outlets, maybe even air conditioning.

Edit: BTW, when I touched the leads on the 200 Ohm setting I got down around .2 ohms. Does that mean I can mentally calibrate and subtract .2 from readings in this range?

[koolaid_kid]

Good luck. You have certainly had some challenges thus far.

[Steve]

BTW, when I touched the leads on the 200 Ohm setting I got down around .2 ohms. Does that mean I can mentally calibrate and subtract .2 from readings in this range?

Yes, you can. As a matter of fact, it is recommended that you do that quick test just about every time you get ready to use the meter to do a bunch of resistance tests. Not for every single measurement, mind you, but once for every session.

One, it will tell you that your leads are good.
Two, it will remind you that even your leads have a bit of resistance.
Three, it makes you look like you know what you are doing, if someone is looking over your shoulder.

Also note that it does not mean that your meter is faulty or inaccurate. My meter was calibrated just last month (5/9), and it also shows 0.2 ohms when I cross the leads.

.

[posplayr]

Yes, you can. As a matter of fact, it is recommended that you do that quick test just about every time you get ready to use the meter to do a bunch of resistance tests. Not for every single measurement, mind you, but once for every session.

One, it will tell you that your leads are good.
Two, it will remind you that even your leads have a bit of resistance.
Three, it makes you look like you know what you are doing, if someone is looking over your shoulder.

Also note that it does not mean that your meter is faulty or inaccurate. My meter was calibrated just last month (5/9), and it also shows 0.2 ohms when I cross the leads.

.

And the old analog meters had a zero adjust

My Fluke 75 has an auto ranging and manual ranging. Not sure how that affect the zero calibration on the ohm meter

[Roostabunny]

Awesome, thanks, guys!

[Roostabunny]

OK, results of passive resistance and 5K RPM voltage tests are in. I'm glad I've got a new Rick's stator standing by.

Passive:
Baseline resistance (leads shorted): 0.3

Leg-->Leg
0.6
0.8
0.8

Leg-->ground
0.5
0.6
0.8

VAC at 5K RPM

Leg-->Leg
60
60
15

Leg-->ground
7
9
60

I'm not sure whether the 7 and 9 VAC measurements are within the meter error or not, but that 60VAC leg-->ground (and 15VAC across the legs) doesn't look good.

I gave up on the stripper/crimper frustration tool and bought myself a real crimper (no, not the Klein one, but a dedicated forged plier style like the Klein at half the price) and some better connectors, so I'm ready to dig in and replace the stator, but I'll give the bike a while to cool off if you want to say "STOP THE PRESSES!"

[Roostabunny]

Side note, my plan for the moment is to:

Keep the bike on its center stand
Tip it to the right
Slip a 3" wood block under the left-side center stand foot

If memory serves, this will let me take that cover off without invoking memories of the Exxon Valdez.

[posplayr]

Order a sh775 Polaris series r/r znd replace it at the same time. It will be the last time you need to change stators. Oh and yes the 5k rpm leg to ground is confirming the one low leg to leg vac measurement. The stator is still partially functional but has at least one "leg" in the grave.
You can see that given the low resistances that you are measuring shy the standard test methods using an ohm meter are ineffective.

[Roostabunny]

Order a sh775 Polaris series r/r znd replace it at the same time. It will be the last time you need to change stators. Oh and yes the 5k rpm leg to ground is confirming the one low leg to leg vac measurement. The stator is still partially functional but has at least one "leg" in the grave

Thank you sir!

The R/R is already "new". Replaced it last year or the year before, which is when I also bought the stator I've got. Since the R/R fixed the problem I had at the time (whacked out charging voltages) I just held on to the stator for a rainy day.

And now it's raining...



Off I go, then.

[posplayr]

Thank you sir!

The R/R is already "new". Replaced it last year or the year before, which is when I also bought the stator I've got. Since the R/R fixed the problem I had at the time (whacked out charging voltages) I just held on to the stator for a rainy day.

And now it's raining...



Off I go, then.

If the new r/r is not a series model it is likely you will burn out the new stator. A new shunt r/r is just as destructive as an old one.

[Roostabunny]

If the new r/r is not a series model it is likely you will burn out the new stator. A new shunt r/r is just as destructive as an old one.

Hmmm. Can I tell by looking at it?

[Roostabunny]

These are the pics I took at the time, if this helps us ID what type this is.