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Paper-ing my Stator: Or... Electricity confuses me

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    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    If you wire the R/R using the fuse box (stock location for the R/R(+) ) then you should be able to get away with a 15 Amp main fuse.

    I don't think using a 25-30 amps fuse is a good thing, you could easily melt insulation and plastic before that ever blows.
    If he is wiring R/R positive output direct to battery, he needs about 20 amp fuse for a little safety margin . I split my R/R output positive output- a 20 amp fused line direct to battery and other into harness; this way most of R/R output goes into harness and "bypasses" the battery. But if my harness wiring someday develops problems, I have the 20 amp as a backup.
    I agree that 30 amp is oversized , but depending on his loads, a 20 amp could blow at an inconvenient time. I'd start with 20 amp and carry spares.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      If he is wiring R/R positive output direct to battery, he needs about 20 amp fuse for a little safety margin . I split my R/R output positive output- a 20 amp fused line direct to battery and other into harness; this way most of R/R output goes into harness and "bypasses" the battery. But if my harness wiring someday develops problems, I have the 20 amp as a backup.
      I agree that 30 amp is oversized , but depending on his loads, a 20 amp could blow at an inconvenient time. I'd start with 20 amp and carry spares.
      I' m pretty sure you don't want two paths even if they are both fused. If they were to share current equally you would be capable of drawing twice the lower amperage of the two fuses. How current sharing might occur is very speculative without details but it there is evidently some as that is what you claim is the purpose. This is DVD. Worse than having a single 30 amp fuse. What happens if an scr shorts in an r/r? How much current gets to that short before one of the fuses blows?

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        I ran this two path setup with my shunt R/R ; I'll ponder your thoughts, but I initially think it's more likely that one of my feeds would chafe against frame and ground out-resulting in blown fuse on either or both feeds- than a SCR frying in the "on" state like a zener diode. My hunch is that Shindengen has anticipated this problem (in the SH775) and has some built in current limiter in for a disaster scenario.
        Last edited by tom203; 07-13-2013, 04:15 PM. Reason: me bad
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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