Solid State Power Box

[salty_monk]

For those that really can't solder I've had very good luck with (and seen very good reviews of) the posi-tite line.

I use them for things such as the relay switch tap (posi-tap) and for wires I might need to remove once in a while etc.

My KLR has a few of them fitted & even with the thumper vibrations & some offroad use they haven't posed a problem. (Not sure about BWringer's submarine usage though... )

http://www.posi-lock.com/index.html

What about adopting some lessons from a company already used to dealing with the general populace & putting a bus with screw terminals down each side?
This was going to be my next electrical upgrade but I guess I'll wait & see now!

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php

[posplayr]

Thanks Jim,



I was just thinking just parts and a list of necessary/suggested tools being included in the kit. Let the installer provide their own tools. I wasn't suggesting that you include tools in the kits. That would either be cost prohibitive or cause installation problems due to cheap tools.

All the best,

Cliff

Hey Cliff, I was not planning on providing tools, just worried about the skill level to do that but after reading here he has it pretty well covered and quality crimpers for less than $40

He does a good job showing how to crimp and solder.

Jim

http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

[Roostabunny]

Subscribing to this thread. I've got "kits" of interest, especially if the possibility of adapting to pre-'83 models comes through. My idea is that I'll eventually rebuild my engine, and when I've got that out of there... well, lots of other stuff might as well gotta happen.

[JEEPRUSTY]

My fusebox attaches with three prongy thingys on the back

I would imagine a stout application of velcro would suffice to attach the given unit.

As for molex connectors why not use a receptacle that will take the OEM plug. Doing that would minimize tedious handiwork.

[Hakamisu]

You might at least consider the reduction in size and footprint if you could replace your fusebox and bank of relays with this one unit. The signal channel will easily handle the led loads; other than that most all circuits will be the same.

I do agree, but at the same time, if one of the $5 relays fail, it will cost me $5. If by some random act of who knows (this is in no way down playing or insulting your briliance), the SSPB fails, I am out quite a bit more.

[isleoman]

Subscribing to this thread. I've got "kits" of interest, especially if the possibility of adapting to pre-'83 models comes through. My idea is that I'll eventually rebuild my engine, and when I've got that out of there... well, lots of other stuff might as well gotta happen.

Yea, how is the 82 1100e different from the 83, electrically?

[Steve]

Yea, how is the 82 1100e different from the 83, electrically?

I know the fuse box area changed on the 850s from '82 to '83, so I just looked at the fiche for the 1100, but did not see any changes there.

There might be one or two small detail differences, but I don't know what they are.

.

[posplayr]

I know the fuse box area changed on the 850s from '82 to '83, so I just looked at the fiche for the 1100, but did not see any changes there.

There might be one or two small detail differences, but I don't know what they are.

.

The only diff between EZ and Ed is turn signal control connector

[scrapper]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog...

[posplayr]

My fusebox attaches with three prongy thingys on the back

I would imagine a stout application of velcro would suffice to attach the given unit.

As for molex connectors why not use a receptacle that will take the OEM plug. Doing that would minimize tedious handiwork.

That is a good idea, but there a few issues.

1.) The OEM (fuse box side) matting contacts are special purpose made by combining the copper fuse box contacts as spade contacts. The OEM connector on the harness has female spade ends. Most right angle PCB mount connectors are pins. How to get from a pin to a male spade?

2.) For flexibility I'm shooting for 10 contacts in the connector although it could be reduced to 8 by running more wires outside of the harnesses connection.

3.) After reviewing other websites, crimping and solder is kinda expected. We are only talking about 10 contacts and then you are done. worst case you have to buy a $10 crimper. Not pretty but it can get the job done.

[salty_monk]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog...

Oh goody... I can build them for him

[cableguy]

Subscribed! This little box of magic will be assurance of reliability that many havent had for a long time, and even at $150 is a bargain for the time, headache and down time that will be saved.

It also seems like this could be applied to other bikes, no? Variances in connectors obviously, but anything else? Maybe series vs shunt with r/r, but if all the systems of a bike are supported, arebthey really much different across makes and models?

If you would like an 1150 to test it on I would be honored to help.

[posplayr]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog...

Thanks I'm hoping there will be interest if this thing can be made bullet-proof. I'm pressing on. I ordered most everything for a test set so I can do detailed developmental test and burn in testing if there is ever any production

The remainder of the BOM will be here Thursday and I can finish up the layout.

[posplayr]

Oh goody... I can build them for him

I was thinking about asking you for the metal bits, but you do PCB's as well?

[posplayr]

Subscribed! This little box of magic will be assurance of reliability that many havent had for a long time, and even at $150 is a bargain for the time, headache and down time that will be saved.

It also seems like this could be applied to other bikes, no? Variances in connectors obviously, but anything else? Maybe series vs shunt with r/r, but if all the systems of a bike are supported, arebthey really much different across makes and models?

If you would like an 1150 to test it on I would be honored to help.

I don't know why not, I would need to get into the details of how they are wired, but first things first.

I'll keep the R/R separate. It should not matter if your burn your stator with a shunt R/R or keep it cool with the SERIES models. The SSPB should not care.

I'll keep you in mind for testing. At the moment I have measured the currents on my ESD, and am going to load/stress test with an instrumented tester/short simulator.

Not sure you will want to short your harness out to stress test the unit?