Solid State Power Box

So the glass bulb is only 35 mm (1.38") tall correct? So this actually shorter than the SSPB even without the LED protrusion (minimum of 1.56" or 1.63" with LED mounts ). As per your pictures the 78-9 GS1000 fusebox is the abbreviated short (in length) model and so the longer boxes have to move to the left on the mounting plate anyway. So even if the SSPB fit the small fuse box bolt pattern there is not enough room due to the frame. So the only relevant question is how much clearance is there under the cover in the location where you moved the longer blade fuse box.?

I understand that you had to cut 6mm off of the 83 750 blade type boxes cover to avoid interference but it also stuck out more due to the mounting plate. So if you don't mind, what is the total stack height of your plate and modified 83 750 fuse box. That is probably close to the maximum height available under the GS 1000 cover at the location where you moved your blade fuse box.

As luck would have it I got a stock electrics plate with the wiring loom I can take a pic with both for reference.It will have to wait til tomorrow as we have an engagement to go to soon.Get a total height to.

[Sci85]

That is awesome news! I think I was one of the firsts on the list correct? I will make sure and set aside the funds then for next week.

I thought you had mentioned the relay function which is really cool. I'm just using the basic, popular coil relay mod that most everyone is using. So I should remove the relay and put the wiring back to stock when using this correct?

Man this is gonna be so awesome. Thanks again for working on this Posplayr!

[posplayr]

So, I'm trying to make sure I have the funds available for when this is ready being close to Christmas and all. Do you think the first run will be before the end of the year or after?

Also, I recall some mention of this doing away with the need for relay mods. Did I understand that correctly or am I way off?

Thanks again!

I'm checking on when the decals will be finished. I put the order in a week ago and so they should be done soon or at least early next week. I'm confirming that now. (Updated I should have them by next Tues)

My plan is to have all the first batch units shipped by about the 8th of Dec with the first ones as early as next week. I only have a limited number of these at the moment and the PCB and housing are bonded to the heatsink using thermal epoxy, so I would like to get firm order before doing the bonding mainly so I know I am building the correct thing.

Bottom line I will be sending out payment requests before the end of the week as I also complete a couple of units for doing an install video.


As far as the relay mods using the SSPB, they are not necessary as the SSPB includes 5 electronic relays.

I don't know how you did your coil relay mod as there are several ways people do them. With the SSPB "Safe Power" will be applied to the O/W harness circuit at the fuse box location. So you would need to make sure that your coils and ignitor are still being powered after your first modification and the SSPB overlaid over that.

I dont know if you have any other relay mods, like the headlamp relay for example but with the SSPB you get 1/2 of a headlamp relay mod by powering the O/R circuit at the fuse box. The HEADLAMP circuit will cut out, and it does avoid running headlamp current through the ignition switch but the power will still routed downstream through your headlamp dimmer switch. To get around that you would need to add an additional relay, but we are talking only a 5 amp load through the headlamp switch so if you keep it clean (use Detoxit), then it is debateable whether you would get any benefit from anything more than the SSPB HEADLAMP circuit.


The ACC "safe power" channel provides an additional relay mod to power other accessories so again you would not need to provide a relay to add either horns or headlamps (either or but not both).


I guess if you wanted to go crazy with fusing and powering a bunch additional remote accessories you could add an additional SSPB's but other than that you can put anything you want in parallel to the SSPB by connecting any other relays or fused accessories at the R/R(+) solder connection. By going in parallel you would have to provide the fusing required to protect those devices seperate from the SSPB.

[posplayr]

My bad,I forgot the plate I made to mount that boxHad to move it down to get it inside the cover .With the cover the glass fusebox is 35mm tall.I very happily retract my warning.

So the glass bulb is only 35 mm (1.38") tall correct? So this actually shorter than the SSPB even without the LED protrusion (minimum of 1.56" or 1.63" with LED mounts ). As per your pictures the 78-9 GS1000 fusebox is the abbreviated short (in length) model and so the longer boxes have to move to the left on the mounting plate anyway. So even if the SSPB fit the small fuse box bolt pattern there is not enough room due to the frame. So the only relevant question is how much clearance is there under the cover in the location where you moved the longer blade fuse box.?

I understand that you had to cut 6mm off of the 83 750 blade type boxes cover to avoid interference but it also stuck out more due to the mounting plate. So if you don't mind, what is the total stack height of your plate and modified 83 750 fuse box. That is probably close to the maximum height available under the GS 1000 cover at the location where you moved your blade fuse box.

[Sci85]

So, I'm trying to make sure I have the funds available for when this is ready being close to Christmas and all. Do you think the first run will be before the end of the year or after?

Also, I recall some mention of this doing away with the need for relay mods. Did I understand that correctly or am I way off?

Thanks again!

[QUOTE=posplayr;1964517]I'm assuming this is the interference you are speaking of

I don't quite understand as it seems that you had a clearance problem because you added an additional plate behind the fuse box to accommodate the diagonal vs. symmetrical tab styles which is what pushed the fuse box out further than you would have wanted.

With another look perhaps it was really the size of the blade fuse box that forced you to move it closer to the R/R and away from the rear frame member. In that case the tab less heat sink would have given you more room and would have avoided the added mounting plate.

Here are some pictures comparing the SSPB with the diagonal style and the symmetrical style. The SSPB selected with the appropriate tabs should avoid having to modify the mounting plate, although modify the plate adds additional flexibility. You actually seem to have plenty of room on that side plate as it is.

The blade style fuse box I have is 1 3/4" tall while the SSPB is no more than 1 5/8" and with the LED holders removed it is 1.5" + 1/16" for the un-recessed pan head screws.

I don't know how tall the symmetrical tab glass tube type fuse box is (some how it did not dawn on me to ask when people were making measurements).


/QUOTE]
My bad,I forgot the plate I made to mount that boxHad to move it down to get it inside the cover .With the cover the glass fusebox is 35mm tall.I very happily retract my warning.

[posplayr]

Current project is a '79 550, but everything is being moved / customized. 'Symmetrical' would probably work best.

Since you are redoing everything take a look at the tab less, it will use the least space and not rely on any existing holes.

Regardless I will put you down and send an email or pm soon.

[Stahlgrau333]

No problem, what are you looking for? Diagonal/Symmetrical or Tabless? What bike?

Current project is a '79 550, but everything is being moved / customized. 'Symmetrical' would probably work best.

[posplayr]

I am so dumb. I thought this would get rid of the starter solenoid and that other relay and therefore save space. But whatever it's still neat and I said I would buy one so I will.

Wish I knew more about electronics, though.

No it does not get rid of the starter relay, but perhaps the other (I'm not sure what you are referring to there)? Starter solenoid is really the least of your problems. The starter relay could easily be replaced with something 1/10 the size but I don't think it is enough of an issue to have to work that problem.

The SSPB is uses modern FET electronics to do the following in a more integrated way.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/Relay_modification_for_bike_v23_byMatchless.pdf

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/SystemRelayMod-1.pdf

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/coil_relay_mod.html

[posplayr]

Is it too late to get on the 'list' for the initial run?

No problem, what are you looking for? Diagonal/Symmetrical or Tabless? What bike?

[Stahlgrau333]

Is it too late to get on the 'list' for the initial run?

I am so dumb. I thought this would get rid of the starter solenoid and that other relay and therefore save space. But whatever it's still neat and I said I would buy one so I will.

Wish I knew more about electronics, though.

[posplayr]

A slight word of caution here.I don't think this will fit in the stock fuse box location on a 78-9 GS1000.When I tried to fit a 83 750 blade type box to my 78 this happened http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=211189 .Other than that it's looking good Pos,to bad there's no way I can afford to get one now

I'm assuming this is the interference you are speaking of?



I don't quite understand as it seems that you had a clearance problem because you added an additional plate behind the fuse box to accommodate the diagonal vs. symmetrical tab styles which is what pushed the fuse box out further than you would have wanted.

With another look perhaps it was really the size of the blade fuse box that forced you to move it closer to the R/R and away from the rear frame member. In that case the tab less heat sink would have given you more room and would have avoided the added mounting plate.




Here are some pictures comparing the SSPB with the diagonal style and the symmetrical style. The SSPB selected with the appropriate tabs should avoid having to modify the mounting plate, although modify the plate adds additional flexibility. You actually seem to have plenty of room on that side plate as it is.





The blade style fuse box I have is 1 3/4" tall while the SSPB is no more than 1 5/8" and with the LED holders removed it is 1.5" + 1/16" for the un-recessed pan head screws.

I don't know how tall the symmetrical tab glass tube type fuse box is (some how it did not dawn on me to ask when people were making measurements).

This is how the SSPB should look on an ED/ESD; I had to trim the connector cover some and it is a little zorked but still better than leaving it off.

A slight word of caution here.I don't think this will fit in the stock fuse box location on a 78-9 GS1000.When I tried to fit a 83 750 blade type box to my 78 this happened http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=211189 .Other than that it's looking good Pos,to bad there's no way I can afford to get one now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2t5...eature=mh_lolz

Daniel

cheers, however ya did that!