Solid State Power Box

[posplayr]

Awesome. Looks cool. Would have definitely wanted one if I wasn't doing a complete harness rebuild already.

You might at least consider the reduction in size and footprint if you could replace your fusebox and bank of relays with this one unit. The signal channel will easily handle the led loads; other than that most all circuits will be the same.

[robertbarr]

Entirely separate from the product you're mapping out here, I suggest you evaluate your tolerance for frustration. You're going to sell an electrical component to people whose levels of expertise and ambition span the entire spectrum. You will get a number of buyers who are inexplicably but militantly opposed to reading anything -- even anything that looks like a product description, let alone installation instructions, and it doesn't matter how thorough you are in preparing the instructions or the website, because they're not going to read them anyway.

They're out there, and they'll buy your item, and a few days later you'll start getting emails with questions that make absolutely no sense; and they'll try to install this item using some rusty arc-joint pliers and a tinner's soldering iron. And after a while, you will wonder how these people manage to dress themselves in the morning -- but they're convinced there's a problem with your product, and they want their money back.

Now, with the products I sell, I have the option to 'abort the mission' with a problem buyer by telling him to return the items, and I'll offer a full refund, just to make the headache go away, and I eat the cost.

You aren't going to have that option. It's going to be tough to absorb a percentage of 'lost causes' with the gross cost of this product. Now, consider that what you're selling is perhaps 50 times more complicated than the stuff I sell, and I can foresee some forehead slaps in your future.

Obviously, there are outfits that manage to sell electrical parts to the general public, and I hope you succeed too; I'm just suggesting that it would be a mistake to underestimate how unbelievably obtuse and unmotivated some of your buyers are going to be.

You'll need some iron-clad return policies, but like I said -- they're not going to read them, either.

[posplayr]

What kind of warranty will this have?

Theoretically, the lifetime of the device should well exceed most people's needs. Due to the robust design there should also be few things to cause failures. In the worst case a couple of IC's could be swapped out . Baring any tampering or abuse I'm hoping to be able to offer an extended fix or replacement warranty. I'm still working on protections to the point where you can just treat it like a fusebox and it will never give any issues.

[GateKeeper]

No Returns, No Refunds, No Nothing, once purchased it's yours, buyer takes full responsibility for their own lack of comprehension, inability to read, understand, follow instruction and so on......

Seller is not responsible for anything other than shipping the product to your desired address.

done deal....

I think that would do it....

.

[posplayr]

Entirely separate from the product you're mapping out here, I suggest you evaluate your tolerance for frustration. You're going to sell an electrical component to people whose levels of expertise and ambition span the entire spectrum. You will get a number of buyers who are inexplicably but militantly opposed to reading anything -- even anything that looks like a product description, let alone installation instructions, and it doesn't matter how thorough you are in preparing the instructions or the website, because they're not going to read them anyway.

They're out there, and they'll buy your item, and a few days later you'll start getting emails with questions that make absolutely no sense; and they'll try to install this item using some rusty arc-joint pliers and a tinner's soldering iron. And after a while, you will wonder how these people manage to dress themselves in the morning -- but they're convinced there's a problem with your product, and they want their money back.

Now, with the products I sell, I have the option to 'abort the mission' with a problem buyer by telling him to return the items, and I'll offer a full refund, just to make the headache go away, and I eat the cost.

You aren't going to have that option. It's going to be tough to absorb a percentage of 'lost causes' with the gross cost of this product. Now, consider that what you're selling is perhaps 50 times more complicated than the stuff I sell, and I can foresee some forehead slaps in your future.

Obviously, there are outfits that manage to sell electrical parts to the general public, and I hope you succeed too; I'm just suggesting that it would be a mistake to underestimate how unbelievably obtuse and unmotivated some of your buyers are going to be.

You'll need some iron-clad return policies, but like I said -- they're not going to read them, either.

Point taken, I understand the issues but probably not the extent of obtuseness. The device has to be robust with a no tamper policy. Thanks for the comments, I will keep them in mind during this initial deveopment cycle.

[Steve]

Entirely separate from the product you're mapping out here, I suggest you evaluate your tolerance for frustration. ..., and it doesn't matter how thorough you are in preparing the instructions or the website, because they're not going to read them anyway.

I fully agree with this, and the 'product' that I offer is ... FREE.

Yes, I have had to tweak the instructions in my valve adjust spreadsheet a couple of times to eliminate a bit of confusion, and the number of 'complaints' has been rather low lately. I have been a bit surprised at some of the guys who sent me copies of their results, and really could not believe what I was seeing. It is sometimes hard to keep a civil tongue when I write back "if you will note, in instruction #3, it says to NOT do that ...".

Overall, though, I think that having fewer than 20 'complaints' or problems with over 750 users is pretty good.

.

[posplayr]

I already have the important mods done....Would mean unmodding....I did every mod in a reversable way anyway.

Can you talk a bit about those fuses? Actual fuses or resetable electronic relay-thing-a-ma-bob?



Now I am NOT cheap but I can be as cheap as any other on this forum. So make it $100 and I will be willing to pay $120 at the last minute.

What about shipping cost to foreign destinations?

Daniel

There are different types of fuses/current and thermal limits. I am still evaluating this but there will probably be one main fuse (e.g 20A) just as a fail safe which primarily protects against an R/R short. All other "protections" are at the 10 amp level. The un-switched battery is a reset-able poly switch.

http://www.te.com/content/dam/te/global/english/products/Circuit-Protection/knowledge-center/documents/polyswitch-fundamentals.pdf

The switched circuits use FET's that are controlled by various sensing mechanism which cycle or shut down the FET switch until the fault(s) are removed. Effectively , that means they are reset-able as well. There are different technologies involved (most of which are quite common if not specific to automotive application) so finding the right mix to meet standard motorcycle loads. The current profiles of each circuit vary between themselves and vary with the operation of the bike significantly. Ultimately we are only dealing with about 220 watts total delivered (15 amps), so part of the design challenge and testing verification is to ensure the individual circuits limit instead of just allowing the main to blow and do so in a way that protects the circuits.

I'm hoping everything will fit in a small standard rate USPS box for domestic. I'll have to get back with you on what is more cost effective for international shipping but USPS seems to have been competitive in the past.

[posplayr]

Interesting. I like the fuseless design, and I'm not entirely happy with my current replacement fuse block.

Well that was my thought as well, the hope is that this thing just does it's job and you never have to worry about all the contacts and fuses, power and grounding, relay mods

[Danaconda7]

I would gladly pay for that.

[OldVet66]

Sounds like a winner to me.

[posplayr]

I would gladly pay for that.

Sounds like a winner to me.

Thanks for the positive comments, I'll keep pressing on.

[BassCliff]

Hi Jim,

This is an ambitious project. You are the geek for it and I am quite interested in the final outcome.

Are you thinking of bundling all of the miscellaneous parts like molex connectors, crimp pins, external 20a fuse assembly, ring terminals, etc? The "everything you need" aspect is handy for us enthusiasts. I appreciate your hard work.


Take care,

Cliff

[posplayr]

Hi Jim,

This is an ambitious project. You are the geek for it and I am quite interested in the final outcome.

Are you thinking of bundling all of the miscellaneous parts like molex connectors, crimp pins, external 20a fuse assembly, ring terminals, etc? The "everything you need" aspect is handy for us enthusiasts. I appreciate your hard work.


Take care,

Cliff

That is the idea Cliff. I'm still a little concerned about needing too expensive of a crimper, and hoping a cheap crimper with a descent solder job and shrink tubing will be adequate.

Most of the other fuse boxes either use screw terminals either with a ring lug or a tinned end of a wire. This really uses up a lot of space and it just won't easily fit in the stock location/form factor .
For now I'm starting with the 4"x2"x1.5" max outside dimensions.

By bringing in the R/R(+) and Battery(+) connections directly to the PCB, it avoids needing higher current contacts in the connector. Only 5 of the 10 wires are carrying that much current which is 10 amps maximum and substantially less most of the time. There is only about 15 amps total available.

I also know people are gravitating to more expensive connectors like Metri-Pack, but the majority of the harness is generally Molex, and with the re organization of the circuits there should be no issues with staying with this type of connector. The alternative is to solder wires right into the PCB to form pigtails for a water proof connector. The problem then is having to crimp and solder twice as many pins plus you are going to be looking at a $50 cost on the connectors alone.

I just don't see the benefits outweighing the cost.

[GS(X)400]

Very interested in this.

[BassCliff]

Thanks Jim,

That is the idea Cliff. I'm still a little concerned about needing too expensive of a crimper, and hoping a cheap crimper with a descent solder job and shrink tubing will be adequate.

I was just thinking just parts and a list of necessary/suggested tools being included in the kit. Let the installer provide their own tools. I wasn't suggesting that you include tools in the kits. That would either be cost prohibitive or cause installation problems due to cheap tools.

All the best,

Cliff