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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Mine is for the skunk so symmetrical base please1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Not really thought about accessory socket usage at this point... I would probably use one for a heated vest perhaps but the 10a switched could just about handle my grips and vest (95w combined on full or thereabouts).
The unswitched I use for phone/headset charging on occasion, on my KLR I use the accessory socket (with 10 or 15a fuse from memory) to trickle charge the battery, is there a specific reason you specify 6a?
I don't really mind but I'd like to understand the why1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Originally posted by salty_monk View PostNot really thought about accessory socket usage at this point... I would probably use one for a heated vest perhaps but the 10a switched could just about handle my grips and vest (95w combined on full or thereabouts).
The unswitched I use for phone/headset charging on occasion, on my KLR I use the accessory socket (with 10 or 15a fuse from memory) to trickle charge the battery, is there a specific reason you specify 6a?
I don't really mind but I'd like to understand the why
I don't have a definitive answer for you . The primary smart FET parts I'm using are from the same manufacturer and are functionally and performance wise nearly identical. One part is from 1 channel of unswitched, the other is 4 channels of switched. Back driving the FET like when trickle charging from the accessory plug is different from forward because the internal protection for current limiting and thermal overload don't work. The limits for the switched part is 15a per channel. For some reason the unswitched part is only 6amps. At least that is what the data sheet says. Even if it is only 6amps while the others are 15 amps this is a thermal limit so it is really not a struck amperage limit but move current and time dependent. So I am investigating his and plant to test before picking a poly fuse to limit how much current you can back drive from a trickle charger. Unfortunately what ever I pick will also limit the forward gurrent even though the the part fully protects itself in that direction.
You should be able to safely wire in at least two different power sockets and run accessories and trickle charger at the same time. The limit ( whether 6amps or something higher) is on how much current goes to or comes from the battery on that circuit. Also keep in mind there should never be more than about 4 amps charging current for a 14ahr battery and trickle charging is probable lay only 1-2 amps.
More on this later after more investigation.
The total power draw on a stock gs is about 11 amp which excludes 4 amps of charning current. Due to the relatively small physical size of the SSPB I'm limiting the total current to about 20 amps continuous with good safety margin. Five channels of 10 amp continuous output is 50 amps so obviously there is an expectation that not all 5 channels are operating at peak. Other than your gs ignition switch most all of the GS circuits are designed for 10 amps of current.
Given these considerations hook what up any amount of load to the extra switched circuit and turn it on and off manually when you have the rpm s up and you should be fine. There is provision for either a +12v or GND control of that power.
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Originally posted by isleoman View PostYes Will it be compatible? I do have an 83 harness and a Shindig (sp) R/R
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PCB's will be arriving on Friday and I'll start assembly and test of the first unit early next week.
After doing some test trials on crimping the connector, I will probably fully populate the connectors with pig tails and then everybody can just inter-leave, twist, solder and heat shrink each one. I will be come an expert crimper and nobody else will not have to worry about it.
Corresponding with Joe at Cycleterminal the ECT39 is perfectly fine for crimping the terminal pins.
Economy - Open Barrel Crimp Tool For 14 - 24 AWG
We have Open barrel Terminal crimp tools,and Terminal Extration Removal tools for open barrel wiring terminals like, Molex, Amp, Yazaki, Sumitomo, JAE, and Harley Davidson - Deutsch terminals. I also have some tips for those that may want to solder certain terminal crimps. Open Barrel Terminal Crimps are a very effective means to secure the wire to the terminal, usually outlasting everything else on the Motorcycle, A wire crimp is just fine by itself, but in some cases you may want to add a spot of solder to the wire and terminal crimp, or if you are pinching the terminal with a pair of pliers or needle nose, you will definitely want to solder. Take a look at the bottom of the page. These are both nice Quality crimp tools for the budget minded, or novice. Personally I have about six different crimp tools that I use, and a couple of them cost well over $250.00 (Just for the tool The dies are an additional cost for me). Practice will help you become proficient with any new crimp tool, and it will be necessary for a good crimp. Great products, Great Prices, and Cheap Shipping.
So unless there is a special request to NOT install the pins I will go ahead and send out the connectors all pre populated. The downside of this is that you will not be able to wire directly from your harness to the connector , you will have to use a splice as it is difficult to get the pins out once installed.
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Sounds like a good solution to me. I have a fresh stick of clear double-wall heat-shrink waiting to be used.Last edited by Dogma; 08-21-2013, 12:27 PM.Dogma
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O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
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'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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That's the crimping tool I started with. Eventually I will get a ratcheting multi-jaw tool.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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JEEPRUSTY
I would like one of these but will need to wait to make it a winter project. My bike is working just to good to work on it. What will the price point be in the future?
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JEEPRUSTY
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Doug B.
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Originally posted by Doug B. View PostSign me up for one, looks like a fantastic way to upgrade my old electrics.
Ok,
What bike you looking at installing on? There are 3 options for bases.
Jim
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