shop got my gs1150 running, get it home and then no spark

[asbjones]

so Ive been going over my wiring diagram and ignition system and looking for a bad wire or loose connection

installing some mechanical ignition unit is out of the question, I have electronic ignition, something is not telling the coils to pulse for the plugs

Im getting no spark anywhere and I doubt both coils could have failed at the same time(but maybe)

how can I check my cdi box? Ive metered some voltage there

[chuck hahn]

Take off the points ( ignition ) cover and see if they dicked with the ignition. Maybe its NOT lined up right or they didn't tighten then screws and it moved would be where I would start. Be sue the center hub is installed into the advance properly. Twist it and see that it snaps back without any binding.

[asbjones]

Take off the points ( ignition ) cover and see if they dicked with the ignition. Maybe its NOT lined up right or they didn't tighten then screws and it moved would be where I would start.

it started twice right in front of me at the shop, then I loaded the bike, took it home, tried to start it the next day and nothing

[posplayr]

it started twice right in front of me at the shop, then I loaded the bike, took it home, tried to start it the next day and nothing

volt meter on the negative side of the coil, the voltage should go between 12V and 0.5V as your crank over the engine.

If there is no 12V then there is something in the harness, if there is no 0.5V then there is something wrong with the ignitor.

The ignitor will alternate between the two coils.

[asbjones]

got the factory manual for the 1150

ok.....I went through most of the checks stated in the factory manual(thanks Ken)...

there is an ohms check between the plug wires that are on the same coil and I got nothing on either coil, but I did get a good ohm measurement on the wire harness side going into the coils(primary)...

Im getting no ohms on the signal generator check, I checked the harness along its route to the ignitor box and they look fine....

heres some pics from the manual on ignition check, anyone picking up on some clues as to why I have no spark? -Aaron

[posplayr]

The Dyna s wouldnt work on there unless you found a mechanical advancer for it. A Dyna 2000 has the advance built in but costs more.
Can you bolt on an 1100 mechanical advance unit to the 1150?

Sorry, I forgot I did that with the Dyna S which is not a great choice for an 1150 (re: mechanical v.s. electronic advance). Coil mod part still applies but maybe the OP cant separate out the Dyna S part from the relay mod.

[posplayr]

ok.....I went through most of the checks stated in the factory manual(thanks Ken)...

there is an ohms check between the plug wires that are on the same coil and I got nothing on either coil, but I did get a good ohm measurement on the wire harness side going into the coils(primary)...

Im getting no ohms on the signal generator check, I checked the harness along its route to the ignitor box and they look fine....

heres some pics from the manual on ignition check, anyone picking up on some clues as to why I have no spark? -Aaron

Easiest check is to see if the voltages on the coils are correct. The plus side should have +12V all the time with key on and kill switch activated. If not you have a wiring issue.

The negative sides should go alternatingly up and down +12V and 0.5V as the engine cranks (1-4 and 2-3 are also out of phase). If it doesn't then the ignitor is probably bad.

[rapidray]

Sorry, I forgot I did that with the Dyna S which is not a great choice for an 1150 (re: mechanical v.s. electronic advance).

BS!!! The Dyna S works great on 1150s! You DO need to change to the 1100 mechanical advancer but those are easy to find, I have about 50 of them. The only issue is you either have to use an 1100 ignition cover or drill a hole in the center of the 1150 cover where the bolt head will stick through. Look at the old Vance & Hines 1150 pro stock bikes & the ignition cover mod they did to see this. Ray.

[posplayr]

BS!!! The Dyna S works great on 1150s! You DO need to change to the 1100 mechanical advancer but those are easy to find, I have about 50 of them. The only issue is you either have to use an 1100 ignition cover or drill a hole in the center of the 1150 cover where the bolt head will stick through. Look at the old Vance & Hines 1150 pro stock bikes & the ignition cover mod they did to see this. Ray.

Please explain how this would be a "prefered" install

Besides having to revert back to mechanical advance, and drilling out the stock cover I don't see how this can be a recommended mod?

Now consider that the Dyna is failure prone due in large part to it's design location ; I don't see it.

Drag bikes and street reliability are two different applications.

[rapidray]

I have NEVER had a Dyna S failure. Have you? Or have you just "heard" about them failing? Also, I know the guys at Dynatek, they are my friends, & they stand behind everything they sell & bend over backwards to help people! Racing IS different from street but that has nothing to do with reliability. A race engine will test every break point at a MUCH higher rate than a street engine so what is your point? Ray.

[earlfor]

I know the 1100G could use a mechanical advance from an 1100E. Is this true for the 1150 also?

I installed a Dyna S on my 85 GS1150E. I used a mechanical advance from a 79 850G. The cranks are slotted for the mechanical advance regardless of whether the bike was manufactured with a electronic or mechanical advance. I suspect any mechanical advance unit would be a "plug and play" installation. On the 1150, the rotor used of the Dyna S is too tall to fit under the case cover. I replaced the 1150 case cover with one from a 83 1100 which is deeper.

[earlfor]

Now consider that the Dyna is failure prone due in large part to it's design location ; I don't see it.

.

I've been on this board about 15 years now, and I don't recall a single post about a failed Dyna S unit. I've never spoken to anyone either that has had one fail.

[posplayr]

I have NEVER had a Dyna S failure. Have you? Or have you just "heard" about them failing? Also, I know the guys at Dynatek, they are my friends, & they stand behind everything they sell & bend over backwards to help people! Racing IS different from street but that has nothing to do with reliability. A race engine will test every break point at a MUCH higher rate than a street engine so what is your point? Ray.

Ray,
I know Dynatek stand behind their product. There have been numerous reports here of Dyna's going out and Dynatech do " no to low" cost repair/replacements. I have not had one fail as I never left them in for any amount of time. I have had two of three of them with still one on the bench.

I only said it was not a prefered solution for an 1150, (without saying all the reasons you listed). You claim that is BS which means you think it is prefered over a working stock ignitor. I don't see how it could possibly be.

And as far as stressing an ignitor, it is cumulative vibration and thermal stress are the dominate factors that will affect the lifetime of electronics. Doing weekend 10 sec runs does not really accumulate as fast as continuous running. While the Dyna electronics sitting on the end of crank are tough, it is still a very touch environment; not so for the OEM ignitor. Only the passive pickups are on the crank shaft end.

So to be specific, with no performance benefit, definite reliability issues and the inconveniences of finding mechanical advancers and drilling out OEM 1150 stator covers, the only way I could see using a Dyna is if you just simply could not find or fix an OEM ignitor.

[posplayr]

I've been on this board about 15 years now, and I don't recall a single post about a failed Dyna S unit. I've never spoken to anyone either that has had one fail.

I'm looking for another in just the last week indicating a sensitivity to a trickle charger. In the mean time I found this thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=190421&highlight=Dyna+charger

This could be a problem, not sure why this would occur.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1613501&postcount=8

11V for a minimum voltage is pretty high. I doubt the OEM parts are that low but that is just a guess.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1522010&postcount=37

here is an apparent shorted DynaS.

I'm still looking for the one mentioning charger sensitivities.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1265647&postcount=100

A word from Bill.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1179340&postcount=9

Here is an older post of chargers blowing them up.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=278943&postcount=3

gearhead had a bad DynaS

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=211603&highlight=dyna

A summary from Jeff at Z-1

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1361792&postcount=18

If you need more we can do a Poll.

[asbjones]

Easiest check is to see if the voltages on the coils are correct. The plus side should have +12V all the time with key on and kill switch activated. If not you have a wiring issue.

The negative sides should go alternatingly up and down +12V and 0.5V as the engine cranks (1-4 and 2-3 are also out of phase). If it doesn't then the ignitor is probably bad.

ok, just checked that, the orange wire plug at the coil has 12 volts and the other plugs does go up and down as I turn it over...maybe my plug wires are toast...