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shop got my gs1150 running, get it home and then no spark
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Originally posted by asbjones View Postdo I just meter the wires in ohms? I get nothing when I do1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Originally posted by asbjones View Postdo I just meter the wires in ohms? I get nothing when I dosigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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cableguy
So what exactly did the shop touch? Go back and look at everything they put their hands on. If it started for you at the shop it seems that to create a no-spark condition would take more than a trailer ride home
So it cranks but no spark and 12V to and from the coils? (eliminates ignition switch, kill switch and clutch switch Have you pulled off the plug caps, trimmed the ends, reinstalled? Better yet replace them with new ones (Z1 will help you).
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Also, check that your meter will read the required resistance. I have 2 that I use for work, and one is only good to 6k ohms. Anything above reads open circuit, which could and has led me to false conclusions before I realized it.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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asbjones
Originally posted by dorkburger View PostWhat does nothing mean? Is it zero OHMS? Or zero, as in open circuit? Vastly different answers....I had similar problems last year, and the problem was a bad spark plug cap, and corrosion at the plug wire connections. I found this by checking and comparing all components separately.
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Kaiser Sosei
Originally posted by rapidray View PostI have NEVER had a Dyna S failure. Have you? Or have you just "heard" about them failing? Also, I know the guys at Dynatek, they are my friends, & they stand behind everything they sell & bend over backwards to help people! Racing IS different from street but that has nothing to do with reliability. A race engine will test every break point at a MUCH higher rate than a street engine so what is your point? Ray.
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lemonshindig
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asbjones
so Uncle Mike came down from Oakland and gave me a hand, we swapped coils and wires and got nothing, but started talking about the coil relay mod, what I thought is 12 volts getting to the coils is more like 9 or 10, Im going to do the coil relay mod and get new coils and wires as well...
this coil relay mod sounds like my problem, when the shop put their big monster car charger in start mode on the bike it had to be pumping more than 12v into the system, thats gotta be why it started, I have old wires just by the looks of my harness, I might even need to completely redo some of it...
what do you guys suggest for coils and wires? I have seen some 3.0 ohm accel coils and some 2.2 Dyna coils online for pretty good prices
-Aaron
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Just do the coil relay mod first, electronic ignitions will not work below a certain voltage threshold. That is true of the type you have and also the Dyna-S. I have had a Dyna-S module fail, but it was on the bike when I had a high voltage charging problem that also toasted the stator. It still lasted many years before it failed and Dyna offered to replace it at cost. Dyna is a model business as far as I am concerned, and will always get my business in the future. Having said that, I doubt the shop checked your charging system out properly and that would be a priority concern right now. If you get 12v to the coils it will probably start. Do the mod and then sort out your high contact resistances in the harness, plugs, connectors, switches, etc. so you don't keep a problem that will continually cause your charging system to go south. Series R/R's are also at the top of the list to keep your charging system healthy.Last edited by OldVet66; 09-23-2013, 07:00 PM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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While you're fildding around with all those wires, remove/clean/inspect the ground wire on that bike.
My 83 Magna went through 3 pair of ( $150/ pair used ) CDI boxes before we found the smoking gun... intermittent ground. The ground bolt looked like a long white fuzzy cigarette.
The boxes would short out/blow up 3 miles into a ride.
A very expensive lesson....1980 GS1000G - The Beast - GOING... GOING... yup, it's gone. I'm bikeless !!! GAaaahh !!!
1978 KZ1000C1 Police - GONE !
1983 GPZ750, aka ZX750A1 - restored, fresh paint... Gave it back, it was a loaner !!!
Check My Albums for some of the 30+ headaches I've dealt with
I know -JUST- enough to make me REALLY dangerous !
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I'll almost bet that when they started your bike with their "BIG MONSTER CAR BATTERY CHARGER IN START MODE" that is generally 200 amps on a 15 or there abouts, amp system, that they fried your igniter, also probably fried your regulator in the process. You will figure that one out when you do get it running .Last edited by hjfisk; 10-29-2013, 06:19 AM.1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing
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asbjones
so heres an update to my thread...
Got a set of green Dyna coils, new Taylor wires, NGK plug ends and rubber boots
made new brackets and Relayed the coils
do I use a 4 pin relay? as the 5 pin seems to switch on and off between the 2 87s
I do have anice 12 volts plus at my coils, but Im still not getting spark
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asbjones
ok I just looked it up, I need to use a 4 pin and split it to each coil or just the single 87 post on the 5 pin...
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