GS450 Charging Woes

[jeffasaurus2]

It's pushing right around 13.8, which I'm comfortable with. I'm sure that the battery is OK, and there probably are a couple connections that could use some cleaning up.

[Nessism]

Sorry if this is repeat information, but we get a LOT of charging system threads around here and many people miss out on many of the critical details.

It's critical to rewire your charging system, namely, route the stator wires directly into the R/R. Do NOT plug your stator into the factory harness. The factory wiring takes a convoluted path with one of the stator legs feeding up to the head lamp switch, then back down to the R/R. This extra wiring builds resistance over time which not only causes charging system problems, but also can also physically damage the main harness due to over heating. And NO this is not an idle threat.

Solder or use large spade terminals to connect your stator directly to the R/R. Also, make sure the R/R is grounded to both the frame and the negative terminal of the battery. Suzuki's R/R grounding often attaches through the battery box or some electrical panel, often rubber mounted, and this path is unreliable at best.

Last thing is to check the harness for resistance between the R/R power output (red wire) and the battery (though the fuse box). Jim (Posplyer) details the critical test as contained in his updated Stator Paper tests. This is NOT optional testing since resistance in the circuit will add heat into the system and undercharge your battery. On my bike I was loosing .8 volts between the R/R and the battery. After cleaning all the terminals (removing the brass terminals from the plastic shells and dipping them in vinegar or HCl, then rinsing and reinstalling into the shell) the lost voltage was restored.

Spend the time to update the system now, or you may have problems later. Updating to that series R/R is also a very worthwhile project since it will protect the system from future problems.

[jeffasaurus2]

Thanks for the information, these things I will certainly take care of.

[posplayr]

Sorry if this is repeat information, but we get a LOT of charging system threads around here and many people miss out on many of the critical details.

It's critical to rewire your charging system, namely, route the stator wires directly into the R/R. Do NOT plug your stator into the factory harness. The factory wiring takes a convoluted path with one of the stator legs feeding up to the head lamp switch, then back down to the R/R. This extra wiring builds resistance over time which not only causes charging system problems, but also can also physically damage the main harness due to over heating. And NO this is not an idle threat.

Solder or use large spade terminals to connect your stator directly to the R/R. Also, make sure the R/R is grounded to both the frame and the negative terminal of the battery. Suzuki's R/R grounding often attaches through the battery box or some electrical panel, often rubber mounted, and this path is unreliable at best.

Last thing is to check the harness for resistance between the R/R power output (red wire) and the battery (though the fuse box). Jim (Posplyer) details the critical test as contained in his updated Stator Paper tests. This is NOT optional testing since resistance in the circuit will add heat into the system and undercharge your battery. On my bike I was loosing .8 volts between the R/R and the battery. After cleaning all the terminals (removing the brass terminals from the plastic shells and dipping them in vinegar or HCl, then rinsing and reinstalling into the shell) the lost voltage was restored.

Spend the time to update the system now, or you may have problems later. Updating to that series R/R is also a very worthwhile project since it will protect the system from future problems.

It is just like the movie "Ground hog Day"

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1904537&postcount=10

[Nessism]

It is just like the movie "Ground hog Day"

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...7&postcount=10

No kidding. The same threads get replayed again and again.

I'm going to build my own GSR FAQ, then cut and paste answers from out of the list.

[jeffasaurus2]

I'm not trying to be redundant. I've done plenty of research and have a decent understanding of how electronics and motorcycles function and operate. I simply created a new thread in order to get some feedback on my particular issues and ideas relating to the topic. I did receive some solid information, for which I thank you.

I'd like to point out that my trip was a blast. 630 total miles of mountain roads and not a single hiccup along the way. Went about an hour north of Steamboat Springs, 35 miles or so South of the Wyoming border. Had some great fun and learned a lot about myself and the bike.

As for now, I've got some electronics to work on.

[Gorminrider]

Glad you got it working, jeffasaurus!
suggest: caution if the OEM reg/rectifier is still in there...

suggestion:I bought myself a bunch tiny led voltmeters on ebay-these cost pennies!- and stuck one on every bike with double-sided sticky tape. They are a useful and informative re-assurance-after all, cars have "alternator lights so why don't bikes in some form?

further suggest:red as being most visible. If it interferes with concentration at night, consider that these don't need to be in plain view-I angled mine a bit forward where it is stuck ahead of the handlebars and the odd look at it suffices.

[tom203]

Yes, an onboard voltmeter is informative about what your charging is doing. As a backup to my meter, I have a LED and zener diode combo- LED doesn't light if voltage drops below about 13.5 volts at ignition switch.

[jeffasaurus2]

So here's an idea that I question, I've got the small round Acewell gauge on my bike. It has an unused LED indicator light for hazards. Would it be possible to wire that indicator up as a charging light? Say, using one of the voltmeter thingers, if it drops below 13 or so the hazard indicator will light up?

[posplayr]

there are a bunch of LCD digital displays (on ebay) that will be good to 0.1V resolution but if you want an Idiot light then this one is kinda cool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6v-12v-24v-Programmable-LED-Battery-level-voltage-monitor-meter-indicator-J-/200843083721?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2ec32e3fc9

[pete]

Good news Jeff, any pic's from your ride? Sounds like fun!

To use the unused LED on the Acewell you will need to design a circuit that turns it on with over voltage... wouldn't be a plug in to one of those volt meters for example.

The LED Jim linked to is what I have on mine and saved my bacon when my first dodgy cheap Taiwanese R/R failed.

You can see it in my custom dash beside my Acewell here:

[jeffasaurus2]

Something to think about then, I'll have to look a little more into it. With the Shindigans(sp?) R/R, was anybody lucky enough to find this stocked at a local dealer? I'm wondering if I can find one in town tomorrow, we'll see.

Yeah Pete, I've got a couple pictures, here are some of the site:






and of the bikes




We took them on a couple roads that turned out to be a little more 'off road' than we were expecting, especially when the rain started, but it was still an amazing trip.

[pete]

Nice pic's, and I'm liking how the bike's coming along! Looks good

Do a search on here for the Shindengen SH775 from Polaris. I think it's around $75 brand new so if you have a Polaris dealer near you, you should be all set.