R/R – Test C – Some results backwards of test - please confirm

[Andrew Vanis]

R/R – Test C – Some results backwards of test - please confirm

Stator paper Test C (top part) says to put RED test lead to RED R/R wire. In this configuration I get no reading. However if I put the BLACK lest lead to the RED R/R wire I get readings. Results below. The reason I am confused is because The Stator Papers say I should not get reading in this reversed position but should get readings in the original position.

Please help me determine the condition of the R/R.

Thanks,
Andrew

***
Side notes – completed TEST A and TEST B.
Test A Part 1 - minimial voltage at idle and no increase in voltage at 2.5k or 5k RPM.
Test A Part 2 = .3 V ( A little high).
Test A Part 2 = less than 0.2V

Test B
OHM test – lead to lead 1.2
W/G – W/Bl = 0.9 after lead correction (gross = 2.1)
W/G – Y = 0.8 after lead correction (gross =2.0)
W/Bl – Y = 0.9 after lead correction (gross = 2.1)
AC = 80V on all leads

***

Test C results

This would be the top part of Test C
Lead Locations - Meter on DIODE test (the triangle arrow with a vertical line infront of it)
Red Red R/R
Black testing

R 0
B/W 1
W/Bl 1
W/R 1
Y 1

top test reversed
Lead Locations - Meter on DIODE test (the triangle arrow with a vertical line infront of it)
Red testing
Black Red R/R
R 0
B/W 1208
W/Bl 1
W/R 510
Y 548


This would be the bottom part of Test C
Lead Locations - Meter on DIODE test (the triangle arrow with a vertical line infront of it)
Red testing
Black B/W
R 1
B/W 0
W/Bl 1
W/R 1
Y 1

bottom test reversed
Lead Locations - Meter on DIODE test (the triangle arrow with a vertical line infront of it)
Red B/W
Black testing
R 1213
B/W 0
W/Bl 533
W/R 1
Y 536

[tom203]

Your R/R is disconnected from stator ,right?? Of course, it is!
All you're doing with diode test, is checking the rectifing diodes inside the the R/R- one way they don't conduct ( the "1" on your meter) while switching test leads around they do conduct with a slight voltage drop ( a "560" on meter represents a .560 volt drop). Your readings seem to indicate that one of your diodes isn't conducting-



What kind of R/R are you testing, stock suzuki, aftermarket ???? Is your bike charging poorly? Did you eliminate the stator loop thru left hand switch?

[Andrew Vanis]

All you're doing with diode test, is checking the rectifing diodes inside the the R/R- one way they don't conduct ( the "1" on your meter) while switching test leads around they do conduct with a slight voltage drop ( a "560" on meter represents a .560 volt drop). Your readings seem to indicate that one of your diodes isn't conducting-

But what confuses me is the "reverse" order of the readings as per the Stator papers, which would indicate that the diodes are backwards (that they pass current with Black to RED R/R wire rather than black to RED R/R wire) and that makes me doubt the validity of the test

And to specifically answer your Qs

Your R/R is disconnected from stator ,right?? Of course, it is!

yes it is

What kind of R/R are you testing

Suzuki 32800-45210
(Nippondenso 137700-0020)

What kind of R/R are you testing, stock suzuki, aftermarket ???? Is your bike charging poorly?

Somewhat. As per Test A Part 1

Test A Part 1 - minimial voltage at idle and no increase in voltage at 2.5k or 5k RPM.

Is your bike charging poorly? Did you eliminate the stator loop thru left hand switch?

Did now thanks to Steve's instructions - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...79&postcount=5

Will re-test

[tom203]

Your open stator test (test B) seems oK; but study this revised link for an additional test to ground during this testing phase. It tests stator insulation to ground at the 80 ac voltage to be sure.
My original R/R 32800-34210 failed similar to what yours is doing- would not go above 13 volts and diode testing said it was NG. Shindengen R/R solved my problem

Edit; that was 3 years ago, this year I changed to series R/R (SH775) to help stator keep happy

[Andrew Vanis]

Re-tested - WORKS - see following important notes.

Of course this still doesn't explain the "reverse" results of the Test C or that it seems to test with one diode apparently not conducting per Test C. Worth pursuing since now runs the correct voltage?

NOTES _

The bypassing of the headlight switch as described by Steve in link above caused the charging to normalize.

What was happening was that I was running these test with the headlight OFF. That was causing one of the poles? of the stator not to reach the R/R. Once I bypassed the headlight switch I caw the voltages be where they should be. The same effect would have been to run the test with the headlight switch on. My thought that the headlight switch off would allow more ("true") current to run to the battery was obviously wrong.

Unless I missed it, The stator papers do not speak of the headlight switch position. Maybe those in charge can add that asterisk.

[posplayr]

Re-tested - WORKS - see following important notes.

Of course this still doesn't explain the "reverse" results of the Test C or that it seems to test with one diode apparently not conducting per Test C. Worth pursuing since now runs the correct voltage?

NOTES _

The bypassing of the headlight switch as described by Steve in link above caused the charging to normalize.

What was happening was that I was running these test with the headlight OFF. That was causing one of the poles? of the stator not to reach the R/R. Once I bypassed the headlight switch I caw the voltages be where they should be. The same effect would have been to run the test with the headlight switch on. My thought that the headlight switch off would allow more ("true") current to run to the battery was obviously wrong.

Unless I missed it, The stator papers do not speak of the headlight switch position. Maybe those in charge can add that asterisk.

You did miss it and no they wont.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769&highlight=charging+system+health

[Andrew Vanis]

You did miss it and no they wont.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...+system+health

Polyspar, I may have found where headlights might be mentioned but I may not be totally off if I missed it. Let me know of what you think…


In the link you provided, nothing speaks of headlight switch position. - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...+system+health

In your revised TEST A, nothing peaks of Headlight switch position - http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970...43-am-55k?da=y

In the “Quick Test” there is language “2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec)” When I read this I read it as instrument cluster lights. For me at least “lights” would indicate multiple where as “headlight” would be that distinctive piece. Only later in the Quick Test Diagnostic summary might one conclude that the headlight should be on. “The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp” - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...92#post1272192

In the original stator papers is says “Be sure to leave lights and everything off” – 4th paragraph in Step 0 - http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

So the only conclusive instructions are in the original stator papers which say “off”

If others are like me that may use TEST A schematic Diagnostic Chart, having “Headlight ON” note in the first part may be helpful.

All that being said….

1 - I think I have a bad R/R anyway, 15.8V @ 5k rpm (that is with headlight switch bypassed) need to do more testing Seriously thinking of the CompuFire. You did such a good job on the write up, seem like there is no other way to go.

2 – I am still not sure why my diode test results are backwards.