no elecricsl

[Guest]

Purchased '81 GS750L for $125.
I turn the key and nothing, I mean absolutely nothing, no "clack" from the starter relay, nothing.
Suggestions on where to start isolating? I have the clymer manual..FYI
The guy I bought it from I know and he said it was running a year ago. I've been reading the forums and found chatter stating the charging systems can self-destruct so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I learned how to shift from my brother on this same model and year..i was 14 so I'm committed to getting it running..

Thanks !!

[Andrew Vanis]

Congrats. The same same one I'm bringing back to life.

I'll let others more skilled with the electric system address your issue. I'm sure you'll get responses but if not, PM me.

Also, before some chastises you for it, put the model and year in your signature line. Good you put it in your post but it seems everyone expects it in your signature line. Also put your location. Chances are one of the members are in your neck of the woods and can come by to diagnose.

also, be for warned, budget about $1,000 for misc parts. My bike was "running" (enough so I could ride it) but as I learned more here there are just things you gotta do.

Carb boots $120
(if your current ones are anything but nice and pliable, do them on your first carb removal - both sides. You always think, this is the last time I'll be removing these carbs, I got it right now. I can deal with these rock hard boots just this last time...and you put it off again. Save yourself and do it the first time.

Battery - $60
Tires $200+
you probably need some charging system parts $100-$300
SS Brake hoses - $150
Engine bolt kit $40
Tank de-rust and seal $100
Petcock $50
CarbTune Carb Synchronizor $100 (FYI, I got the Motion Pro Blue fluid one on Amazon ~$45, works good enough)
Carb Dip Berrymans $20 Walmart

Good luck with this project. Let me know if I can help. (and if you change your mind on this project, please let me be first in line)

[Steve]

Where to start? At the battery. Verify that you have 12+ volts there before even trying anything else.
If you do have 12+ volts, do a load test to verify that it stays at 12+ volts.

You "turn the key and nothing, I mean absolutely nothing, no "clack" from the starter relay, nothing"? That's OK, the starter relay (also called the "solenoid") does not click until you push the starter button. You will probably also have to pull the clutch to get the starter to work, unless someone has bypassed that "safety" feature.

.

[Killer2600]

I second all of steve's recommendations, if you have no lights when you turn the key you gotta make sure your battery is good AND charged (keep in mind the two are not necessarily synonymous).

[Steve]

Case in point: about a week ago, I was at another GSer's house to diagnose an electrical problem. The battery showed 12.88 volts, but nothing happened when the key was turned. Checked the voltage when the key was ON, it was less than 1.0. Yes, that is "one point oh." Tried the battery with a headlight bulb jumpered across the terminals, it was just as dead.

Diagnosis: no problem with the bike, just a dead battery. (that had voltage)

.

[TwoKaw]

Thanks

Thanks for the responses !

I should have also mentioned I have a 2011 ninja 250 (my gf) battery that I've been using just removed it to test on the GS.

I spent an hour cleaning all contact points around the battery, starter relay, rectifier, fuse box, etc...

Turned the key and my old and neutral lights came on. Pushed the starter and she turned right over !

Checked compression and at closed-throttle it read 112 on all cylinders, so open-throttle should be around 115 or 120ish

Checked for spark; also good.

So I'm hopeful..

I did fine and crack on the clutch side engine mount but based on the design, I believe it can be fixed by drilling the start of the crack to kill it and filling it in.