New remote ignition/start installed

[Agemax]

Finished the install on my new remote ignition and starter today.
it uses a 4 channel remote system, 1 powering a pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on and off, and another to power the starter motor.
much more compact and robust than my old units and more range.
i plan on connecting a 3rd channel to a remote choke lever operation when i get round to it.

this is the system mounted next to the relay, wired up with AMP superseal multi connectors.



and here is the system installed, the main aluminium angle bracket helps to hide all the other wires in there as well.

[posplayr]

Everything looks very clean; do you hAve a link to a description of the remote system?

[Agemax]

yep, here ya go.........

http://www.quasaruk.co.uk/acatalog/DS-LEWES4%20Remote%20System-2.pdf

[posplayr]

yep, here ya go.........

http://www.quasaruk.co.uk/acatalog/D...20System-2.pdf

Looks like they squeezed 4 mechanical relays (5A/ 230 VAC) into close to the same form factor I plan for the SSPB.


The voltage spec is really tight on +12V (11V-13V).

So one channel is ignition the other is solenoid? You have to leave the Kill switch enabled?

Why did you need the external relay?

[850GT_Rider]

It's well done and all, but the question begs itself - WHY?

The primary purpose for remote start systems for autos is occupant comfort - you want to heat or cool the interior prior to getting in. Remote start for a motorcycle gains what - maybe 30 seconds or a minute while the engine warms up enough to pull the choke off?

[Agemax]

Looks like they squeezed 4 mechanical relays (5A/ 230 VAC) into close to the same form factor I plan for the SSPB.


The voltage spec is really tight on +12V (11V-13V).

So one channel is ignition the other is solenoid? You have to leave the Kill switch enabled?

Why did you need the external relay?

the +12v tolerance is actually wider than that written in the spec sheet, according to the technical team.
yep, one is for ignition which pulses the pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on/off, and the other is starter solenoid.
the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch but the starter wont work with kill switch off or if the bike is not in neutral
(thats why i asked you the question a while back regarding solenoid grounding through neutral light switch).

not only is it fitted for convenience, but it now has no visible ignition switch which confuses potential thieves and makes it harder to "hotwire".

also when the ignition is off, the external relay then powers a small alarm (yet to be fitted) which will incorporate a panic alarm controlled by the same operating keyfob

[earlfor]

That sounds pretty neat! Cheers! However, it ain't a gonna do much good against four big guys with a pick up truck. hehe eh

[posplayr]

the +12v tolerance is actually wider than that written in the spec sheet, according to the technical team.
yep, one is for ignition which pulses the pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on/off, and the other is starter solenoid.
the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch but the starter wont work with kill switch off or if the bike is not in neutral
(thats why i asked you the question a while back regarding solenoid grounding through neutral light switch).

not only is it fitted for convenience, but it now has no visible ignition switch which confuses potential thieves and makes it harder to "hotwire".

also when the ignition is off, the external relay then powers a small alarm (yet to be fitted) which will incorporate a panic alarm controlled by the same operating keyfob

If that is true you have defeated the safety purpose of the Kill Switch.

One of the other things I have been wrestling with on the SSPB (and I think I have it knocked) that is there is an additional safety issue when you control the ignition circuit through a FET. If the FET shorts (the predominate failure mode) you also can't turn off the bike with either the kill switch or the ignition switch.

This can be bad if you have been screwing with your throttle cable.

[simon kuether]

You're a clever dick Adrian .
Can I buy one for another couple of packets of Tim Tams ?
On second thoughts , I better not . I'm barely smart enough to drive a key , let alone a wizardry .

Gorn, gis another look at that potential bobber of your's (it'd put a horn on a jellyfish) .

Cheers , Simon .

[Agemax]

]If that is true you have defeated the safety purpose of the Kill Switch.[/COLOR]

One of the other things I have been wrestling with on the SSPB (and I think I have it knocked) that is there is an additional safety issue when you control the ignition circuit through a FET. If the FET shorts (the predominate failure mode) you also can't turn off the bike with either the kill switch or the ignition switch.

This can be bad if you have been screwing with your throttle cable.

why have i? you can turn the key and the power will come on with the kill switch on or off, same as the remote.

the kill switch still kills the motor when it is running, and wont allow the engine to start if the kill switch is off. EXACTLY the same as the stock set up!

the kill switch is still hard wired to the ignition circuit so IF in the event anything should decide to fail, the kill switch will still kill the motor.

[tkent02]

That sounds pretty neat! Cheers! However, it ain't a gonna do much good against four big guys with a pick up truck. hehe eh

They don't have pick up trucks in England.

[posplayr]

why have i? you can turn the key and the power will come on with the kill switch on or off, same as the remote.

the kill switch still kills the motor when it is running, and wont allow the engine to start if the kill switch is off. EXACTLY the same as the stock set up!

the kill switch is still hard wired to the ignition circuit so IF in the event anything should decide to fail, the kill switch will still kill the motor.

I asked before:

You have to leave the Kill switch enabled?

To which you posted

the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch

I have no idea how you wired it, just asking questions.

[Agemax]

yeah i said the ignition will switch on and off, as in you put the key in the IGNITION and turn the IGNITION key on. not the actual circuit which powers the ignition circuit.

[Agemax]

They don't have pick up trucks in England.

we do have them, just nobody can afford to drive them!

[posplayr]

yeah i said the ignition will switch on and off, as in you put the key in the IGNITION and turn the IGNITION key on. not the actual circuit which powers the ignition circuit.

Sorry, I have been working on a fuse box for the last month. The ignition circuit is enabled by the both the ignition and the kill switch and actually will not come on even when Ignition SW is on if the Kill switch is off.

Yea I know it is traditional to say the ignition comes on when the ignition switch is switched on, however not when a Kill switch is Off.

So I'm guessing you have modified the wiring to the ignition switch but nothing downstream which gets back to the original question which is that the Kill switch has to be left in the on position for the remote to be able to start the bike. No??