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GS 550 wont turn off!!!

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    GS 550 wont turn off!!!

    Allright!

    I set up my wiring like this:


    It all seemed to be good, and the bike started fine. BUT! When i flipped the off-swith, the bike didn't turn off.

    I asked a few people, who all said, that the bike generates power from on it's own, adn don't need the battery to run.
    So I'll need to place the OFF-swith between the generator and the coils. But that would meen 2 off switches, since I can't join the two wires from the generator. Right?

    I then tried to eliminate the wires I don't weem to need on the original wiring diagram. And it turned out something like this:


    I then tried to do a diagram with only the things i (think) I need.
    Like this:


    My question now is:
    Where the F is my ignitor unit on the bike? Do I need it, can I get around it?
    Signal generator on the drawing is my ignition right?

    By the way. I'm from denmark, so my technical english is limited. Also I'm used to working on old 2-strokes, so this is kinda new to me. Plus I bought the bike in boxes, so I didn't take it apart.

    PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME, AND TELL ME WHAT TO DO.

    #2
    GS 550 wont turn off

    Hi, just a couple of questions.

    • Have you build the electrical harnass or is the original one still on?
    • How do you start the bike?
    • Does it still have the kill switch on the handle bar?

    Comment


      #3
      To answer your questions. :
      • I build the harness from scratch
      • Kickstart
      • No, not when I started out. (Now it does)




      BUT apparently I just solved the problem on my own.

      Not sure how though.

      I used the original on/off swithc on the bars insted of the flipswitch I bought.

      Now it's running AND turning off, without the battery. Now that I like.

      Better do a drawing of what I did then.

      Next thing is tyres, MOT and licenseplate, and then out for a nice long ride.

      Comment


        #4
        Great! Enjoy riding.

        Comment


          #5
          The Kill switch kills the ignition which is basically the coils and igniter. The bike will not run without the ignition so yes you need the igniter.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Cherrybomb View Post
            Allright!

            I set up my wiring like this:


            I
            PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME, AND TELL ME WHAT TO DO.
            Sorry, I did not follow the original reason for the thread but I will point out that you have another issue with the wiring above.

            There needs to be a fuse between the R/R(+) and the Battery(+). This is normally accomplished by not fusing the R/R(+) as it it is limited to 15 amp out anyway and moving the connection between the two to after the 15 amp main fuse. If teh R/R were to short then you will burn up your harness.

            This is the classic "T".

            You should also have a single point ground where all grounds (except for the large engine ground strap) return back to R/R(-). This can just cause charging issues. Include a wire direct from battery(-) to R/R(-) along with one to frame ground. See GS Charging health for more pointers.

            Once last thing, Are you planning to run the bike without a Battery? If so you will need something to dampen the voltage spikes coming from the R/R and charging. Large capacitors or one of the new Shori batteries.


            I asked a few people, who all said, that the bike generates power from on it's own, adn don't need the battery to run.
            So I'll need to place the OFF-swith between the generator and the coils. But that would meen 2 off switches, since I can't join the two wires from the generator. Right?
            Back top the original issue,

            The statements above are correct but when you interrupt the power from both battery(+) and R/R(+) the bike will quit running. You can do that with a single switch. I think you don't quite understand what is going on inside of your ignition switch. Use a ohm meter and compare it to the original schematic for your bike to understand how the contacts operate. One set of contacts should be simple on off as you require and.

            That was a nice schematic by the way.
            Last edited by posplayr; 08-12-2013, 12:53 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              see this post

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