1983 GS450L - Just died on the way work to work this morning.

[JEEPRUSTY]

By pad I mean the feet of the centre-stand.

[incarceration]

OH, yeah that sounds like it's got bad written all over it

[incarceration]

I am running into snags along the upgrade\replacement process.

1) I have a bolt that snapped off and absolutely refuses to come out; it's stuck outside of the shaft hole about 1\4 of an inch
a) i used a dremel and notched out a place for me to put a large flat head screwdriver in the shaft, didn't work
b) i tried using vise grips, didn't work, just slipped\turned on the shaft
c) i've shot PB blaster all while doing the above 2
d) going to get a small butane torch and try to heat it up and cool it a few times and see if it releases that way

2) I have the ESR130 model Electrosport VR\R and the wires are Y, Y, Y, R, BLK - what do I wire the 3 yellow leads to on the old wiring? The old wiring has RED, RED\WHITE, BLUE\WHITE, YELLOW, and 2 Black that are in 1. Does it not matter which is in what as long as the ground and red (presumably hot) are matched?

3) My stator has all white wires when my old stator had YELLOW, WHITE\BLUE, WHITE\GREEN. Again, what is the method of hooking this up properly?

[tom203]

AS for problem 1... is this a bolt holding the old R/R on??

I bet I've sent you this link before- has nice diagram

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/r-r_replacement.pdf

make sure you wire stator DIRECT to R/R- ignore the "sense" wire stuff as your R/R doesn't have one



might enjoy reading this thread-it's a warning regarding ES stuff

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=210101&highlight=extra+wires

[incarceration]

Just finished getting everything back together and tried to start it up and I just heard a loud click. I assume the starter. I hooked up a DMM to the battery posts and it was at 12.38VDC and when I hit the starter button it went down to like ~8.4VDC.

So the battery died over the week or so as i waited for the parts to come in

[Nessism]

If you haven't done so already, rewire the charging system by connecting the stator directly with the R/R. The harness may melt down otherwise due to the dreaded headlamp stator loop. Bypass the factory harness and use spade terminals to connect the wires, or just solder them. Make sure your R/R is proper grounded too. Suzuki's R/R grounds suck on many GS's (not familiar with your particular bike though). You also might want to check for resistance in the power return out of the R/R. Look for Pos's test on Basscliff's site. Take your time to do this detail work up front, and it will pay off with a more reliable bike. Slam in the stator quick and dirty, and it may not last.

Good luck

[incarceration]

If you haven't done so already, rewire the charging system by connecting the stator directly with the R/R. The harness may melt down otherwise due to the dreaded headlamp stator loop. Bypass the factory harness and use spade terminals to connect the wires, or just solder them. Make sure your R/R is proper grounded too. Suzuki's R/R grounds suck on many GS's (not familiar with your particular bike though). You also might want to check for resistance in the power return out of the R/R. Look for Pos's test on Basscliff's site. Take your time to do this detail work up front, and it will pay off with a more reliable bike. Slam in the stator quick and dirty, and it may not last.

Good luck

I haven't completed the install yet - it's sitting outside without a battery attached. Right now this is how it's all hooked up:

New stator in, 3 wires coming from that, ran up the side and behind the side panel and into the little black shroud and connected to the 3 bullet connectors (YELLOW, WHITE\GREEN, WHITE\BLUE.) From there I hooked up the new VR\R with the 5 wires (RED, BLACK, 3x YELLOW) with RED to RED, BLACK to BLACK, and 3x YELLOW to YELLOW connected to WHITE\RED, WHITE\BLUE, and YELLOW all that were apart of the long narrow black proprietary connector going to the original VR\R (I cut it off and attached spade connectors and shrink tubing over the connections.)

Here are some pictures I took along the way that may help with what I just said above:

http://imageshack.us/g/1/10317291/

So If I'm understanding correctly, you want me to basically bypass the 3 bullet connectors and hook them right into the same place I'm hooking up the WHITE\RED, WHITE\BLUE, and YELLOW spade connectors into the VR\R? What about the 3 bullet connectors on the new stator? I don't think those come off nicely without destroying the rubber covers lol Doing this will essentially eliminate the WHITE\RED and WHITE\GREEN switch\relay\connection\whatever, is in the wiring diagram I included in the album set in the above link with the bottom far left arrow.

Where on that diagram do you see a "headlamp\stator loop"?

And lastly, I have the ground wire going into the VRR hooked up to a second wire and an eyelet connector behind the left 10mm bolt that holds on the side panel that the electrical components are bolted onto (VR\R and Igniter.) You think that's sufficient? In the photo(s) you may see it connected behind the left bolt holding on the igniter but I moved it to a different, more solid connection to ground instead of having the panel as another medium for it to jump through.

[Nessism]

Connect stator wires directly into R/R (3 yellow wires). Bypass factory harness.

R/R ground to a solid frame point or the battery. Not to that flimsy electrical panel.

R/R power output feeds into factory harness (red wire) and to the fuse block. That's okay as long as there isn't too much resistance.

The stator loop business is where one leg of the stator travels across the harness and to the (now extinct) headlamp switch. This wire often overheats and cooks the harness in the process. BAD.

[incarceration]

R/R power output feeds into factory harness (red wire) and to the fuse block. That's okay as long as there isn't too much resistance.

I haven't found any "fuse block" on this bike anywhere. I know of 1 fuse, and it's inline the positive post of the battery to the starter and other end leads over to the RED wire of the VR\R I believe.

What kind of resistances are acceptable?

The stator loop business is where one leg of the stator travels across the harness and to the (now extinct) headlamp switch. This wire often overheats and cooks the harness in the process. BAD.

Extinct?! Lol how in the world...?

[Nessism]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff1/images/Stator_Papers_Phase_20A.pdf

[incarceration]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/..._Phase_20A.pdf

??

What's that relevant to? It doesn't say anything about resistance ratings or anything.

[Nessism]

??

What's that relevant to? It doesn't say anything about resistance ratings or anything.

Step 2 tells how to look for voltage drop (caused by resistance).

[incarceration]

Step 2 tells how to look for voltage drop (caused by resistance).

Yeah but still doesn't reference any resistance values. What kind of resistance ranges are we talking?

[Nessism]

Yeah but still doesn't reference any resistance values. What kind of resistance ranges are we talking?

I don't know how much resistance.

You will be ahead of the game if you clean all the connections between the R/R power output and the battery. Since your bike doesn't have a fuse box, that should be easy. Once the bike is up and running, check the voltage drop per the attached link.

[incarceration]

I don't know how much resistance.

You will be ahead of the game if you clean all the connections between the R/R power output and the battery. Since your bike doesn't have a fuse box, that should be easy. Once the bike is up and running, check the voltage drop per the attached link.

Alright, will do