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    Another points problem

    Bike lost spark the other day. started easy /ran OK 3 days before,
    so I started from the bottom...
    I had a new "ND Denso Tune Up Kit" laying on shelf, so I put in new points and condensers.
    Set gap at .014" on both sides, set timing on 1-4 "by the book"..
    and 2-3 can not be timed !
    I would need the 2-3 points plate to allow another 15 degrees counter-clockwise to get them to open on the mark.
    as it sits, they are opening almost at TDC.
    Anyone got an idea what I did wrong ?
    Maybe bad parts?
    I guess Icould put the old points back in... they don't look bad, just old.

    BTW... 1979 GS1000L
    Last edited by exdirtbiker; 09-17-2013, 08:47 PM.
    1980 GS1000G - The Beast - GOING... GOING... yup, it's gone. I'm bikeless !!! GAaaahh !!!
    1978 KZ1000C1 Police - GONE !
    1983 GPZ750, aka ZX750A1 - restored, fresh paint... Gave it back, it was a loaner !!!
    Check My Albums for some of the 30+ headaches I've dealt with

    I know -JUST- enough to make me REALLY dangerous !



    #2
    Did you use the 1-4 F mark or the T mark?

    Use the F mark, the one to the right

    Are you sure your originals are ND? The ND has the condensors running side to side
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

    Comment


      #3
      I had the same problem. Had to do some bending and file down the rubbing blocks and re-set the gap to get the timing where it needed to be. It took me about two hours to get everything set correctly.

      So if you need to rotate the entire plate CCW, then the effect is that your 1/4 points will open earlier, and you need to file the 1/4 rubbing block to counter that effect. I think. It's a bit tricky to figure out, but it's do-able.
      Last edited by Guest; 09-18-2013, 12:14 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Big T View Post
        Did you use the 1-4 F mark or the T mark?

        Use the F mark, the one to the right

        Are you sure your originals are ND? The ND has the condensors running side to side
        Not the T mark. I read the book about a dozen times, I'm pretty sure I did it correctly.
        The parts were a " ND Denso Tune Up Kit".. = points, caps, plugs. All in one box. Parts in little plastic baggies. Been on a shelf for 20 years, but new.

        Also, the wiper on the cam is about 1/8" away from touching anything. I guess I should fix that while I'm fiddling about in there.

        ... Must drive to Florida tomorrow, bike will continue to rot in my garage for at least another 10 days..
        1980 GS1000G - The Beast - GOING... GOING... yup, it's gone. I'm bikeless !!! GAaaahh !!!
        1978 KZ1000C1 Police - GONE !
        1983 GPZ750, aka ZX750A1 - restored, fresh paint... Gave it back, it was a loaner !!!
        Check My Albums for some of the 30+ headaches I've dealt with

        I know -JUST- enough to make me REALLY dangerous !


        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by exdirtbiker View Post
          Bike lost spark the other day. started easy /ran OK 3 days before,
          so I started from the bottom...
          I had a new "ND Denso Tune Up Kit" laying on shelf, so I put in new points and condensers.
          Set gap at .014" on both sides, set timing on 1-4 "by the book"..
          and 2-3 can not be timed !
          I would need the 2-3 points plate to allow another 15 degrees counter-clockwise to get them to open on the mark.
          as it sits, they are opening almost at TDC.
          Anyone got an idea what I did wrong ?
          Maybe bad parts?
          I guess Icould put the old points back in... they don't look bad, just old.

          BTW... 1979 GS1000L
          When you are preparing to set the max gaps on the points. BEFORE setting any gaps, you must center the main breaker plate. The breaker plate hold down screw at the 12 o'clock position must be centered in its adjustment slot. If you do not do this first step, you will not have enough travel adjustment to time the points on the F| 1-4 or sufficient adjustment to time the points half breaker plate on the F| 2-3.

          The points gaps must be set using the concentric screw on the points themselves. To reiterate, the breaker plate is to be centered in the adjustment range and must not be moved from center position until after the points gaps have been set.
          Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

          I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Earlfor ! Before / after pics. after is timed correctly, but still no spark. Going to give up until the Dyna s and coils arrive. And I think it's time to replace some screws....

            1980 GS1000G - The Beast - GOING... GOING... yup, it's gone. I'm bikeless !!! GAaaahh !!!
            1978 KZ1000C1 Police - GONE !
            1983 GPZ750, aka ZX750A1 - restored, fresh paint... Gave it back, it was a loaner !!!
            Check My Albums for some of the 30+ headaches I've dealt with

            I know -JUST- enough to make me REALLY dangerous !


            Comment

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