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'82 GS450L - No spark left side HELP!

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    #16
    Originally posted by incarceration View Post
    Alright I just checked that.

    The circuit is open (shows infinity) until I rotate it past the respective 'point', then it shows a quick reading on the ohms and goes back to infinity (for both). So this means my signal generator is working properly, and that it's my left coil that is defective, right?
    That just shows the magnet is working. Signal generators are basically just magnets and rarely fail. The trigger tells the ignitor to fire. If you are not getting spark it's most likely the ignitor or coil. You can switch coils side for side and see if the problem follows. As mentioned before, the 450 ignitors are prone to failure so keep that in mind as you progress though the diagnosis.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      Ok I just swapped the wires going to each coil; the left still did not spark and the right did still. This is indicative of a bad left coil, correct?

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        #18
        Originally posted by incarceration View Post
        Ok I just swapped the wires going to each coil; the left still did not spark and the right did still. This is indicative of a bad left coil, correct?
        You switched wires going to the coils, thus assuring the left side had a good coil because it sparked previously, yet no spark? If so, that indicates the ignitor is bad.

        If you switched coils right for left, and the problem switched sides, that indicates a bad coil and/or wire/cap.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #19
          No before I did any diagnosis, the LEFT side was NOT sparking, but the RIGHT, WAS.

          I swapped the 2 wires going to the LEFT coil, with the 2 wires on the RIGHT and the same issue was there, no change. Meaning, to me, the good wires that were on the right that WAS sparking, is on the LEFT, that WASN'T and it still WASN'T.

          To me, that indicates the LEFT coil is bad, correct?

          EDIT:
          I found this on eBay:


          and was wondering if that'll be compatible with mine? Mine says 3210TR 21 and that one says 3210TR 61, what's the difference?
          Last edited by Guest; 09-29-2013, 01:40 PM.

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            #20
            Originally posted by incarceration View Post
            No before I did any diagnosis, the LEFT side was NOT sparking, but the RIGHT, WAS.

            I swapped the 2 wires going to the LEFT coil, with the 2 wires on the RIGHT and the same issue was there, no change. Meaning, to me, the good wires that were on the right that WAS sparking, is on the LEFT, that WASN'T and it still WASN'T.

            To me, that indicates the LEFT coil is bad, correct?
            That seems like sound logic. It would definitely point towards a bad coil, now wouldn't it?

            There are some basic coil tests you can do with your multimeter. Use the ohm meter function, and measure the resistance across the primary winding (small wires), and then again from primary winding to secondary (a small wire to a spark plug wire). Compare these numbers to the other coil. And then check for ground. If both small wires are disconnected, and both spark plug wires are disconnected, there should be no continuity to ground from the coil.

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              #21
              Ok I checked both coils ohm impedance, here are my findings:

              LEFT COIL:
              point-to-point (from positive (+) to negative (-) terminals on the coil itself) = ~4 ohms - 8ohm

              from positive (+) to inside connected spark plug wire boot = disconnected\infinity\no continuity

              RIGHT COIL:
              point-to-point (from positive (+) to negative (-) terminals on the coil itself) = ~4ohms - 8ohms

              from positive (+) to inside connected spark plug wire boot = steady 229,000ohm (22.9 when on the 200K multimeter setting)


              CONCLUSION:
              This is indicitive of the left coil needing to be replaced, correct?

              Should I replace it with this?


              The part number on that says 3210TR 61, my coil that I will be replacing says 3210TR 21; what is the difference? Will that one be a direct replacement of mine?

              Thanks
              Last edited by Guest; 09-29-2013, 03:08 PM.

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                #22
                Last thing you need to eliminate is the spark plug wires. If you look where the spark plug wires connect at the coil, there is some sort of screw-on system there. Test your resistance from that point to the small + lead. If that's infinite, then the coil is bad. If it's not, then test between that screw post and the other end of the spark plug boot wire. You could have two bad wires. That would be unlikely, though. I'm betting you've got a bad coil.

                I don't know what the part number difference is.

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                  #23
                  Yeah, I just tested from the other end of the wire to one of the leads on the coil and it didn't produce any reading, just infinity.

                  Where would you recommend getting a new coil if that one I showed isn't compatible?

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                    #24
                    That's not a Suzuki part #, I'm not sure what that number is.

                    Here is your Suzuki part #:
                    33410-44X50

                    I just checked, same part number for the '82 and the '86 450L.

                    There you go!

                    -Matt

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                      #25
                      On second look, the original part numbers were different, and then Suzuki issued a superseding part, 33410-44X50. So that may explain the different stamping. But because Suzuki replaced both the original part numbers with a common one, I'd say they're definitely compatible, wouldn't you?

                      -Matt

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                        #26
                        For sure, they look pretty much identical except for that '6' instead of a '2' LOL

                        I just wanted to make sure before buying something that may not work and\or may cause more problems because it's not the right part

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                          #27
                          Well I ordered that part so we will see once it gets here if all is well.

                          I'm still expecting to have to adjust some stuff on the carbs after I had them off and rejetted everything; I'm hoping I don't have to swap out the #130 main jet for the other one I got, #127.5, but we'll see I guess.

                          Thanks to everyone that has helped me with this monstrosity of a project this has turned into!

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                            #28
                            Sorry for the late chiming in here, haven't logged on for a bit...

                            You may find it's the spark plug cap on the end of the lead.

                            You can get new ones or you can take the old one off, trim 1/4" or so off the end and twist the plug cap back on again.

                            Just another option...
                            1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
                            1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020

                            sigpic

                            450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh

                            Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11

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                              #29
                              After replacing the left ignition coil everything started falling into place quick.

                              It's running great now, I'm gonna try and do some plug chops.

                              One small problem I noticed, when starting it (warm or cold) it'll kinda require me to roll back a bit on the throttle to get going.

                              Any ideas why?

                              thanks for all the help to everyone in this thread!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Good stuff, replied in your other post re: throttle/lean/etc.
                                1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
                                1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020

                                sigpic

                                450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh

                                Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11

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