New instrument cluster - signal problems

[Guest]

Last night I replaced the stock instrument cluster on my 83GS400E with this: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...-15-0040b.html

Slow and steady I replaced one by one and the swap was a net success but I now have a strange problem with my turn signals. I have a feeling that this stems from the change in displays; the new gauge has one blinker that's on whenever the left or right signal is flashing whereas the old cluster had two lights; an indicator light for each signal.

In the old cluster these two lights shared a common ground and had their respective + leads. I therefore assumed it would work to combine the two + leads (as both would never be on at the same time, right....) to the one indicator light in the new gauge.

What has happened though is that when I activate a turn signal, be it left or right, no lights go off for the first 1/2 second. What does happen is that the signal relay begins making clicking noises in very rapid succession that quickly tapers to a steady rate of about 3 clicks per second. Soon into this the signals - both directions, front and back - flash in unison with the clicking of the relay, as if both directions of my signal indicator hove become hazard mode.

Further to this, if I entirely unplug the indicator light in the gauge this problem still occurs! Luckily hand signals are legal here but I'm growing tired of them fast.

A new relay is cheap and I'll buy a new one later today but I suspect the problem is greater than that. Is the relay freaking out because of the reduced load on the circuit? By tying the two + leads for the two indicator lamps together did a create a sort of short where current travels from one light to another looking for a ground? And, if so, could I maybe fix that with some in-line diodes?

Thanks.

[tom203]

" therefore assumed it would work to combine the two + leads (as both would never be on at the same time, right....) to the one indicator light in the new gauge. "

Disconnect the two + leads from each other temporarily-then see if flashers behave normally. This new gauge likely needs one + from side going to one lead on turn indicator bulb socket while other + goes to other lead on bulb; when you activate signal, let's say right side, the power + feeds thru the indicator bulb grounding out in left side signal bulbs and so it lights up. The left side signals don't see enough current to light.

[VintageWWII]

Ordered the same style, same problem, inline diodes will work, to get it to show on the cluster as well.

Last night I replaced the stock instrument cluster on my 83GS400E with this: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...-15-0040b.html

Slow and steady I replaced one by one and the swap was a net success but I now have a strange problem with my turn signals. I have a feeling that this stems from the change in displays; the new gauge has one blinker that's on whenever the left or right signal is flashing whereas the old cluster had two lights; an indicator light for each signal.

In the old cluster these two lights shared a common ground and had their respective + leads. I therefore assumed it would work to combine the two + leads (as both would never be on at the same time, right....) to the one indicator light in the new gauge.

What has happened though is that when I activate a turn signal, be it left or right, no lights go off for the first 1/2 second. What does happen is that the signal relay begins making clicking noises in very rapid succession that quickly tapers to a steady rate of about 3 clicks per second. Soon into this the signals - both directions, front and back - flash in unison with the clicking of the relay, as if both directions of my signal indicator hove become hazard mode.

Further to this, if I entirely unplug the indicator light in the gauge this problem still occurs! Luckily hand signals are legal here but I'm growing tired of them fast.

A new relay is cheap and I'll buy a new one later today but I suspect the problem is greater than that. Is the relay freaking out because of the reduced load on the circuit? By tying the two + leads for the two indicator lamps together did a create a sort of short where current travels from one light to another looking for a ground? And, if so, could I maybe fix that with some in-line diodes?

Thanks.

[n780]

Perfect. Just picked up the diodes, will install this weekend. Thanks!

[n780]

In the chance that someone is searching for the same problem and finds this thread:

Went to a local electronics store and briefly explained the situation and the staff there had no doubt of the diode I needed. I didn't get any specs but if it can handle a few amps at 12 V that should be more than enough. 4 of them cost me only $0.67.

Attached below it the picture of how I put them into the circuit. The two leads are the (+) wires for the left and right signal lights on the instrument cluster. Here they are being joined to connect to a single indicator light. Diodes are unidirectional and the marked (-) side should be towards the instrument cluster. The bottom wire is after soldering and heat shrinking and the top one is about to be soldered. Nice to have my signals back.

[Matchless]

Two 1N4004 or 1N4007 will work and can handle 1A each which is more than the little 3W or 5W indicator bulb draws.

And solder them in!

[Steve]

I might have missed something that was posted earlier, but ... did you replace the turn signal bulbs with LEDs, too?

Even if you didn't, it sounds like you have it solved.

.

[n780]

I might have missed something that was posted earlier, but ... did you replace the turn signal bulbs with LEDs, too?

Even if you didn't, it sounds like you have it solved.

.

I did also replace the signals bulbs themselves with LEDs about a month ago. Would that have any residual effects?

[Steve]

I did also replace the signals bulbs themselves with LEDs about a month ago. Would that have any residual effects?

Yes, some. Did you by chance see the bit on BassCliff's site about Converting to LEDs? Although the name of the page relates to the instrument panel, it also applies in your case, with your single indicator in the new gauge. The diagram there shows how a single bulb is connected with 'regular' turn signals, the lower one shows how to use a single LED (like yours). In your case, it won't matter if the signals are regular bulbs or LEDs, you will have to have the diodes.

You have to use a different flasher, one that is designed to flash with the low load of LEDs. If you don't have the diodes installed at the indicator in the instrument panel, current will simply keep going across and light up the signals on the other side. The diodes will let each side's signal get to the dash indicator, but not beyond.

.

[n780]

Nope, hadn't seen it. That's the exact solution I went with, good info there. Thanks!