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New stator and regulator in my 82 GS850 today

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    New stator and regulator in my 82 GS850 today

    Ok. I bought new stator and R/R from electrosport and installed sat and sun. It was a bigger job then expected. My comments below...

    First. Do NOT bother trying to remove the old RR from the bottom of the battery box from the side of the bike as bikecliffs incredible site depicts. He is awesome but sadly incorrect in this case. I tried and tried. Finally I got smart and removed the battery box. Lol !!! It only took me 5 minutes. It's easy as can be. To remove the box, take the seat and side covers off. Remove battery. Then look down at the box. If you are standing at the left side of the bike, you will see two bolts facing up to the right of the box (towards rear of bike). Remove them. You will see two black electrical box units hanging on clips on the battery box directly across from you over on the right side of the bike. Lift them both straight up off the clips they are on. Leave them hanging. Now, you might think you could lift the box out but there is one screw going into the top bracket of the battery box that must be removed. Look down in the box as you stand on the left side of the bike. You can see it going in from your side directly into the top bar of the box. Remove it and lift the box off the rod on your left. It comes right out. Flip the box over on the ground and have it it with your impact screwdriver. A couple good whacks and those screws came out.

    Now. You need to go to hardware store and get two new socket head screws. They are metric M6 1.0 threads. Get them 1.25 " long or approx metric equivalent. Get a couple lock washers too. You also need a couple 4mm bullet electrical connectors and one female 4mm. The reason you need this **** is that the RR comes with a big 4 place connector that ain't no good to you. So I pulled the connectors out of the plastic socket by pressing a tiny screwdriver into the socket to depress the metal edge of each spade and pulled the wire and spade out. 4x. Then I pulled the spade off. I did this because the wire harness looked quite short and I didn't want to loose any length by snipping it off. Thank god I did because you need all the length. Now look at your old rectifier and put the bullets on he correct wires and the female on the other. Now, you can plan on using the ground wire one of two ways... One, you can ground it to the RR mount bolt. But I didn't think that would provide a great ground. So I tried to reach the battery term with it. But it's too dang short. So I soldered 2 " lead on it. And took it to battery terminal.

    Now. For the stator. You need an impact screwdriver. I got a cheapie from auto store. Was like 10 bucks. Carefully loosen all the screws and remove the stator from the side plate. Take it out. Btw I just cut the old stator wire off to take off side plate.

    Now. You may find, as I did, that the stator has a dang bracket on it that is inconveniently located. It is in a bad place and didn't allow me to make the thick harness take the tight turn up the side wall. So I removed the bracket by taking two needle nose pliers and bending the bracket off the wire. I removed the screw holding the bracket and took it off. Now, I mounted the stator and wrapped the harness snug underneath the stator, around and up the sidewall. That worked good. That harness won't move and its held tight by the sidewall bracket. Make sure you get that bracket snug to the sidewall and pressing straight down. Now route the harness around and screw the screws in to hold it. You are ready to go.

    You need a new gasket man. Mine was petrified and broke. It was really tough to get the side plate broken free. I beat the snot out of it with a rubber mallet. Then I got a hair dryer and heated up the side plate and beat the snot out of it again until it finally broke free. Put the new gasket on first. Use something tacky and mount the gasket on the bike prior to installing the stator and plate.

    There. I just saved you a ton of time. Because I had some major time eating roadblocks. One, i tried forever to remove the RR from the side. That's dumb. Take off the batt box man !! Two, needed new bolts for RR. The electrosport RR is THICK at the mount location. It's about 3/4" thick. You need a 1.25" or approx m6 1.0 hex head bolt to remount. Three, that stator needs the harness bracket removed. It won't fit otherwise. Four, that RR needs new connectors. That four place connector don't help !

    Anyhow. I got it hooked up and it charges perfectly. I still ran it all stock so I didn't bypass the headlight harness as many suggest on the site. I was just too beat to figure that out. I just installed same as I took it off. But it works perfect. 14.4v. I may go back later and bypass the headlight circuit.

    Thanks all.

    #2
    I guess you missed the warnings about the E/S stators having a little too much output when fitted with any shunt R/R ,including the E/S ones. The BBQ threat looms in your future , no matter how perfect your charging is now.
    Do your bike a favor and get a SH-775 (series R/R) - find a Polaris ATV
    dealer and ask for part #4012941 .

    Not bypassing the headlight loop is looking for trouble.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Yes - I did miss that discussion thread. I just read up on it and I wish I had seen the Series RR...but I can easily add that now.

      If I buy this series regulator and wire the stator directly to the RR, bypassing the headlight circuit, do I have to do anything else to the wiring or am I good?

      Just wire direct?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Gary_t200 View Post
        If I buy this series regulator and wire the stator directly to the RR, bypassing the headlight circuit, do I have to do anything else to the wiring or am I good?

        Just wire direct?
        The actual R/R replacement should be wire-for-wire, but it would be good to bypass the "mystery loop" at the same time.

        To bypass the "mystery loop", simply disconnect the stator wire that is connected to the wire that disappears into the harness and re-connect it to the R/R.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          When you guys disconnect the headlight loop, does it overcharge if the headlight is turned off?
          I have never done it because I turn the headlight off a lot.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment


            #6
            If your R/R is working correctly, it won't overcharge, it will just make the R/R work harder.

            If it's an older shunt-style, there is simply more current being shunted (wasted) to ground, if it's a newer series-style, it's simply turned off more.

            If you still have the headlight loop of the stator hooked up, it's interesting to note that the battery charges better with the headlight ON.
            Yep, that loop of the stator has just a little more capacity than the headlight requires, so there is a little more left over to charge the battery.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              OK, thanks. I was concerned with the extra shunting going on. Seems like more heat and more current cooking the stator can't be a good thing.

              I think I'm going to the series type anyway, so it's a no brainer to cut the wire.

              I just never had to mess with it before, never had any charging problems on any of my GSes.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                I just never had to mess with it before, never had any charging problems on any of my GSes.
                Congrats. You are evidently one of the few that has been doing it right.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  Congrats. You are evidently one of the few that has been doing it right.

                  .
                  Yeah I guess so. Lucky too maybe.
                  I look at the wiring when I get a bike. Clean everything up and make sure it all works correctly before I start riding it. Look at the voltage once in a while.
                  I have bought a few dead GSes with bad charging systems, but once they are fixed they have all been fine.
                  It probably helps that I live in a corrosion free zone.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Cliff's bike is the 1st generation 850, so maybe there is more room to access the R/R hardware compared to the 2nd generation bikes? Not sure, but agree that removing the battery box isn't a bad idea.

                    Rewiring the charging system is one of the most important tasks in the job. The stock R/R grounding was very bad, often going though the rubber mounted battery box or electrical mounting plate. That stator loop routing has damaged countless harness too. Best to bypass that mess as discussed.

                    With a high output Electrosport stator a good series R/R is highly recommended. All that extra current is going to shunt away and generate a bunch of heat in the stator. Not good.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      Cliff's bike is the 1st generation 850, so maybe there is more room to access the R/R hardware compared to the 2nd generation bikes? Not sure, but agree that removing the battery box isn't a bad idea.
                      Not sure where you are drawing the "generation" line.

                      I have had the opportunity to work on all years ('79-'83) of the 850 that were available in the USA.
                      At various times, we have had '80, '81 and '82 living in the garage.

                      Only the '83 was different, it had the R/R near the top of the rear of the battery box, and it had its own plug, right at the R/R.

                      All the others were mounted to the bottom of the battery box, and yes, it's MUCH easier to pull the battery box to access the R/R.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        REgulator grounding. RR ground

                        Oh...forgot to mention. When you get into the RR check your grounding wire on battery. My battery ground was totally corroded both at the battery terminal and at the engine. Wow. The wire was cooked. The copper was heavily corroded. Cut them both and sanded and terminated. But will replace with new thick wire when I find some.

                        Thanks

                        Comment

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