pin locations SH775

[Guest]

I got my 83GS1100E in February with 28k miles and did all the basic work, tires, forks seals battery. Cleaned up the harness removed the handle bar loop and used the O.E. charging that still worked fair. So now after riding 3500 miles this summer it's dry-dock time for new stator and R/R. and the 2 questions are... the 2 pins on right side of R/R. far right ground, and to the left is the power out? and were would be the best place tap into positive hook-up? I have seen the diagrams for the SH775 but some say to relocate the red wire elsewhere?

[SVSooke]

Guessing it's the same as this one http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=175127

[Sci85]

That's exactly right except there is no sense wire.

[smoothbored]

SH775 pin location

this unit has 5 pins, the 3 on left side are stator feeds and I'm guessing #4 is output (POS) and #5 is the ground. And eastern beaver has these last two direct to the battery with fuse. warm dry weather this Saturday hope to have everything back by then.

[posplayr]

I would get some naval jelly and clean out the fuse box and other connections and connect the (+) RED tp the factory wire going to the harness.

Also add the grounds as described to battery(-) and frame

[smoothbored]

Sh 775 r/r

Would those FH R/R connectors fit my SH 775 R/ R ? that would make a very clean installation. thank you all GSers.

[Sci85]

FH? If that stands for Factory Harness, then no, they will not fit the sh775 r/r. You can order some from Eastern Beaver as has been mentioned. I ordered a Triumph part that was half the cost of the EB ones though. The Triumph part fits into the sh775 r/r and then I cut the other ends off and put the necessary bullets on the ends to fit into the factory harness for the stator leads and power lead.

Here's a link to the connector.

http://www.triumphmcparts.com/produc.../T2500676.html

[smoothbored]

Fh 012/010

I was looking at the connector on eastern beaver site for the above R/R. They look very similar , the SH775 R/R that I'm using Has 5 pins 2 plugs without sensing lead.

[smoothbored]

Thanks!

Thanks SCI 85, got just what I wanted.

[Roland5color]

I would get some naval jelly and clean out the fuse box and other connections and connect the (+) RED tp the factory wire going to the harness.

Also add the grounds as described to battery(-) and frame

I followed these instructions to the T. Except I used the works toilet cleaner Instead of Naval Jelly. Let me tell you it works perfectly. Bike now charges at 14.4 volts from around 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm. Posplayr definitely knows his stuff. Oh and I'm running the stock R/R and stator. I also cleaned up the entire electrical system as well. Before following these instructions I was only charging at 13.2 by the time I hit 5000 rpm. I am so reading 14.2 volts at the coils without a relay mod when the bike is running.

[tom203]

14.4 volts at battery and you don't have coil relay mod, but still have 14.2 volts to coils, I'd be surprised. It's a long winding road from main fuse to key switch, back to ignition fuse, up to kill switch and down to coils -bound to be half volt drop at least. I'd doublecheck to be sure and consider getting your bike an early xmas present - a SH775 to keep stator happy!

[posplayr]

I followed these instructions to the T. Except I used the works toilet cleaner Instead of Naval Jelly. Let me tell you it works perfectly. Bike now charges at 14.4 volts from around 2000 rpm all the way to 5000 rpm. Posplayr definitely knows his stuff. Oh and I'm running the stock R/R and stator. I also cleaned up the entire electrical system as well. Before following these instructions I was only charging at 13.2 by the time I hit 5000 rpm. I am so reading 14.2 volts at the coils without a relay mod when the bike is running.

Thanks, not sure if I mentioned it but now that all that brass and copper is bare if will want to oxidize again. Use either dielectric grease or a product called detoxit. Just takes a little spray so you don't have to smear grease.

[Roland5color]

Believe me I double checked the voltage because I couldn't believe it myself. I only have a Walmart special meter so it's not the most accurate I'm sure. Regardless the improvement that I've seen since cleaning every possible connection, switch and wiring the bike the way posplayr suggests is amazing and was the reason I posted. I know some people don't agree with leaving the T in like he suggest but it works perfectly. I plan on getting a SH775 in the near future. Now that you've mentioned it maybe I'll ask Santa for one for Christmas. Oh and posplayr I used dielectric grease and detoxit depending on where the parts were located. I ride a lot in the rain so I wanted all those pieces protected. Well that's enough thread jacking.

[posplayr]

Believe me I double checked the voltage because I couldn't believe it myself. I only have a Walmart special meter so it's not the most accurate I'm sure. Regardless the improvement that I've seen since cleaning every possible connection, switch and wiring the bike the way posplayr suggests is amazing and was the reason I posted. I know some people don't agree with leaving the T in like he suggest but it works perfectly. I plan on getting a SH775 in the near future. Now that you've mentioned it maybe I'll ask Santa for one for Christmas. Oh and posplayr I used dielectric grease and detoxit depending on where the parts were located. I ride a lot in the rain so I wanted all those pieces protected. Well that's enough thread jacking.

Good job!!

[smoothbored]

road tested.

Got the job done without the connector from triumph, that's next weekend work. With a good fluke meter I'm getting peak 14.3 volts at 2500 rpm's . And a lot of peace of mind. I would like to pull my ignition switch apart and check it and clean it . Is there any how to do this on 83GS1100E? Working on and riding this old bike has been a great enjoyment, hope to keep it going a long time.