electro sport stator

[posplayr]

DON'T solder leads directly to the R/R's lugs...By the time you get them hot enough, you could be damaging internal parts.The thing is engineered to get rid of heat, after all.
If you want to put a bit of solder on the blade connectors, there's a good example I just saw here by Wizard on this thread http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0&postcount=19

It is possible to solder directly to the r/r spades. I debated this when installing a FET R/R some time back and it did work.

I pushed over (about 30 degrees) each of 5 spades on the inside of the connector housing and drilled each one to accept the wire to be soldered.

I then stripped back the wire end insulation, bent them into a little S bend so they would conform better to the spade and inserted the bare end into the drilled holes.

You are correct the spades will need a lot of heat but it is unlikely to damage the R/R. You will need to put a quality soldering iorn on high heat though .

straightening the spades again and filling with some RTV as Nisssim has shown would work also. This avoids that huge connector that you would otherwise need. I my case I thing I even cut down the large connector housing; I dont remember if that was needed to get at the spades or not but it seems like it was the only way to get the r/r to fit into the stock location.

[Gorminrider]

"holes in the lugs"...that's a good tip. Me, I am thrice-bit, forevermore-shy but I would just chop all or most of the plastic shrouding away as useless were I to solder on. I just don't have enough trouble with lugs to go this route and make my clumsy mess.
"Quality soldering iron" haha. would that be the Radio-Shack $8 unit or the so-called "soldering tip" on a propane torch? Or the Weller Portable Butane one I have that sets fire to everything around it? or the other Propane one I have that isn't hot enough if the room temperature is below 65f/20c Or the old Weller pistol grip that burns out

[last337]

I apologize for asking again but I still am not understanding the wiring. It doesnt help that I am completely colorblind either

I see how to hook it up and I have some connectors that will work and I think I can fit it in the stock location by cutting down the plastic connector housings but I am just not sure about the connections. Does it matter which wire from the stator goes where in relation to the blades in the red plug? What about the black plug?

[posplayr]

"holes in the lugs"...that's a good tip. Me, I am thrice-bit, forevermore-shy but I would just chop all or most of the plastic shrouding away as useless were I to solder on. I just don't have enough trouble with lugs to go this route and make my clumsy mess.
"Quality soldering iron" haha. would that be the Radio-Shack $8 unit or the so-called "soldering tip" on a propane torch? Or the Weller Portable Butane one I have that sets fire to everything around it? or the other Propane one I have that isn't hot enough if the room temperature is below 65f/20c Or the old Weller pistol grip that burns out

Soldering to the spades is not the best option but if it keeps from having to mount the R/R on the handlebars as it wont fit anywhere else then it is an option.

[last337]

I'm actually looking at this with some rested (sober) eyes now and I'm even more confused. I wonder if this was even hooked up right to begin with. I have two stator wires going to the old r/r attaching to a yellow wire and a white/blue wire on the old r/r. I have another station wire going to a green/white wire that goes back into the wiring harness. From the old r/r there is a black wire going to ground, a white/red wire going to harness and a solid red going into harness. Any ideas?

[posplayr]

I'm actually looking at this with some rested (sober) eyes now and I'm even more confused. I wonder if this was even hooked up right to begin with. I have two stator wires going to the old r/r attaching to a yellow wire and a white/blue wire on the old r/r. I have another station wire going to a green/white wire that goes back into the wiring harness. From the old r/r there is a black wire going to ground, a white/red wire going to harness and a solid red going into harness. Any ideas?

there are directions in the link GS Charging system health. The wires you are describing sounds like the stock factory wiring. As has been repeated here often wire the stator direct to the R/R and ignore the G/W and W/B. Follow the grounding recommendations as well. I don have the SH-775 pin out but it is a simple 5 wire R/R

[last337]

I found this thread but it is just making me more confused I know to you this is just a basic 5 wire r/r but to me it is still confusing.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...polaris+wiring

[tom203]

You want the 3 wires coming from stator going direct to R/R - in attached pic. the 3 yellow wires from stator plug into the SH775 as shown, the red (the positive feed) goes where your old red from old R/R goes into harness. The black wire (the negative) needs to go to a good common ground or at least the battery negative.

[last337]

Thanks for the reply. I saw a few guys talking about the stick routing back into the harness not being the best way to go. Could you put the red directly to positive of battery with like a 15amp inline fuse?

[posplayr]

Thanks for the reply. I saw a few guys talking about the stick routing back into the harness not being the best way to go. Could you put the red directly to positive of battery with like a 15amp inline fuse?

you can as that is the simplest and doesn't require cleaning your harness but it changes the fuse requirements and you need at least a 20 amp fuse. For that reason I don't wire my R/R that way.

[last337]

I'm curious why you don't like that setup. seems easier without having to get into harness.

[Gorminrider]

last337, did you understand tom203's picture? Being colour-blind?...

in tom203's picture, the red positive R/R output wire is on the left of the two-lug place of the R/R. The black negative Ground wire is on the right of the two-lug place.
The three stator wires go to the three-lug place on the R/R. Your three wires from the stator aren't all yellow, but it doesn't matter. Plug them in in any order on the three-lug place of the R/R. (the old Suzuki Factory setup has one stator wire wandering away to the light switch and back but that setup is now "deprecated".)

My smaller bike is simpler than your 1100- there is only one fuse to protect the bike's wiring.... On my bike, the R/R Red positive output wire is connected to the battery directly.

but as a possibly useful note, it is connected to where my battery's main positive/red lead is connected at the Starter Solenoid. The starter solenoid has a nice tall posts with nuts. The advantage of this is that the battery has just one thick red positive wire lug to attach (and ,of course, one thick black negative lug on the other side!) and it makes removal from the battery box Easier...

[posplayr]

Thanks for the reply. I saw a few guys talking about the stick routing back into the harness not being the best way to go. Could you put the red directly to positive of battery with like a 15amp inline fuse?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28

[last337]

Thanks for all the info! I really appreciate the detail as far as which is to right and which is to the left, it is very helpful.

I also looked at the comparison b/w the two setups that posplyr did. So if I did want to keep the original configuration, what wires should I replace before putting everything back together? I admit I didnt go through the complete 'fault finding chart' before the stator got fried and now I dont know what to test without the bike running. I dont want to hook it back up and start it and have the same problem fry a brand new stator.

[Gorminrider]

your confusion might be my fault. You have a new stator, you say,per your first post

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1959280&postcount=1

while I was thinking you still had the old one with three different coloured wires....and your new stator has MORE wires as in:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1885510&postcount=9

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1885580&postcount=16

however, the colour-code of the extra wires indicate they are merely duplicates.
Being colourblind will make this hard so you perhaps have difficulty telling the blue/white from the green/white?....

IF you post a photo with the wires laid out in order, we can tell you which are the duplicates.


Normally, it would be simple to see which by testing for perfect continuity between the clones with a multimeter, but yes, the stator windings also have very low resistance and it will be difficult to tell for sure with a cheapie multimeter