Help me figure out how to start my bike.

[tom203]

When you get it running, check charging system ASAP. If it is charging make sure it's not overcharging -A bad R/R can cause a high voltage that could damage the "IC"- big bucks!

[StubbornDutchman]

When you get it running, check charging system ASAP. If it is charging make sure it's not overcharging -A bad R/R can cause a high voltage that could damage the "IC"- big bucks!

Got an explanation or a good link on a step by step of how to do this?
Sorry for all the questions. I didn't even know I was such a noob.

[Bshipe]

Got an explanation or a good link on a step by step of how to do this?
Sorry for all the questions. I didn't even know I was such a noob.

Just check the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running. It should be roughly 13.5v to 14.5v.

[tom203]

Charging systems on these critters are highly failure prone...... best to take advantage of member posplayr's efforts to sort this stuff out in a logical manner. When you get bike running, do a quickee and go from there

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A20

[StubbornDutchman]

Ok. I'm getting places. Got everything mounted back on the bike. Its turning over nice and strong. But its still not starting. Checked for spark and everything is good. Checked the coils and they are reading at 4.5 Ohm across the terminals so thats within what it should be.

Pulled the cover off of the airbox and had my brother hit the starter button as I sprayed an old windex bottle of gas into the tunnel towards the carbs and it fired right up! Ran fine as long as i kept spraying.

Pulled a drain plug off a carb and a little gas dripped out but not much at all. So I pulled the lines off the Petcock and put it from RES to PRI. and nothing happened. I pulled the Petcock off and disassembled it and there was no fluid past the diaphragm at the Run Line that goes out and that was dry. I blew on the place where the Run line comes off and i can blow and suck air no problem. So it seems like my petcock is buggered twice over? Or am I missing something?

Are there any decent rebuild kits out there or are they all garbage?
Otherwise I'll dish out the $58 for a new Petcock. Unless someone knows where they are cheaper?

[tom203]

Just get new petcock and move on to other stuff- there will be plenty of fun ,like carb removal and proper cleaning. How does the inside of your fuel tank look after barn sitting?

[StubbornDutchman]

Just get new petcock and move on to other stuff- there will be plenty of fun ,like carb removal and proper cleaning. How does the inside of your fuel tank look after barn sitting?

Fuel tank is actually really clean. I was shocked. I just finished a proper cleaning of the carbs last week.(yes a full teardown and soaking them in carb dip and new orings from robertbarr) So I'd better not have to do that again just yet.

Now my next question. My 15A fuse that's connected to the RR and ignition switch gets hot when I'm turning the bike over. Like a small smoke signal came off of it kinda hot. But I can't find any wires that are hot to the touch. Am I missing a ground? Why would this happen?

[tom203]

"My 15A fuse that's connected to the RR and ignition switch gets hot when I'm turning the bike over"
Are you talking about the main 15 amp in fusebox or something added between R/R and somewhere ? During cranking (before charging system kicks in) the main fuse is sorta maxed out especially with bike that can't shutoff headlights.
Hooray for carb cleaning!

[StubbornDutchman]

"My 15A fuse that's connected to the RR and ignition switch gets hot when I'm turning the bike over"
Are you talking about the main 15 amp in fusebox or something added between R/R and somewhere ? During cranking (before charging system kicks in) the main fuse is sorta maxed out especially with bike that can't shutoff headlights.
Hooray for carb cleaning!

Ya that main fuse is what I was referring to. Ok so it's just because I was cranking it over for a good while without it starting that it heated up? Makes sense. Yes my headlight cannot be turned off.

The new petcock and plug caps are on order from CRC along with a new valve gasket so I can shim my valves properly. I noticed a good tick when it was running for 20 seconds yesterday.

You're one helpful dude Tom. Thanks a lot.

[Steve]

I just finished a proper cleaning of the carbs last week.(yes a full teardown and soaking them in carb dip and new orings from robertbarr) So I'd better not have to do that again just yet.

Keep enjoying that wishful thinking.

Although you have apparently done all the right stuff with the carbs and your tank appears to be clean, don't rule out the possibility that some stray piece of crud will find its way through.

What I am saying is: if you do end up with a problem that seems to be in the pilot circuit, don't simply say "it can't be, I cleaned the carbs". Go ahead, pull the carbs (again), remove the pilot jets and give a quick squirt of carb cleaner spray and compressed air in the reverse direction to normal flow.

Can't tell you how many times I have had to do that, so it's not all that uncommon.

.

[StubbornDutchman]

Keep enjoying that wishful thinking.

Although you have apparently done all the right stuff with the carbs and your tank appears to be clean, don't rule out the possibility that some stray piece of crud will find its way through.

What I am saying is: if you do end up with a problem that seems to be in the pilot circuit, don't simply say "it can't be, I cleaned the carbs". Go ahead, pull the carbs (again), remove the pilot jets and give a quick squirt of carb cleaner spray and compressed air in the reverse direction to normal flow.

Can't tell you how many times I have had to do that, so it's not all that uncommon.

.

Good to know. I'll keep it in mind. Although I hope I don't have to. These carbs are a PITA to get off the bike which barely any clearance between the frame and the airbox.

[tom203]

Good to know. I'll keep it in mind. Although I hope I don't have to. These carbs are a PITA to get off the bike which barely any clearance between the frame and the airbox.

Yeah, no fun, but as Steve pointed out, stuff happens. Hopefully, you'll get lucky. and hopefully you paid attention to enricher circuit (aka "choke") in each carb. If that little hole in fuel bowl bottom gets gunked up, stuff can get pulled up into that little tube and onward into carb throat passages making for hard cold starts.
Reminder; when you use "choke" lever, do NOT apply throttle or you defeat the enricher circuit mechanism

[StubbornDutchman]

One more question then I'll be done. (Who am I kidding right?)

Did a compression test on the motor. I have 125-130psi on three cylinders. But only 65psi on a fourth. I heard a pretty good valve tick though in the few seconds it was running. Do you think the bad compression could be from a bad valve and it'll get fixed when I shim them? I don't know if they have ever been shimmed before as the service history is totally unknown.

I know all these questions aren't electrical/ignition but it seems that those helping me may be following this thread to some degree and I appreciate the help. So I hope no-one minds this.

[Steve]

If it is actually the valve that is doing the ticking, that would not account for the low compression, unless the valve was slightly bent, which would prevent full closing and sealing. As a rule, the valve clearances only tighten up on these bikes, so don't wait until you hear the valves before doing a clearance check, as it will never happen.

Since you don't know the history (even if the previous owner assured you), you should assume that a clearance check has NOT been done, and do it yourself.

.

[tom203]

Get the cam cover off and go exploring-best not to run till you know the camshafts are oriented correct to crank. maybe chain jumped (frozen adjuster) or missing shim.