How to connect? - re-post

[jsandidge]

I'll be picking up a new SH775 from the polaris dealer on Saturday. I just picked up this Triumph lead, and I'm a little confused about connecting it. I assume I'll be cutting the smaller connectors off of the lead. One side of the lead has 3 black wires that I will connect to the stator with bullet connectors.

Question 1 - Can I just leave the infamous headlight loop disconnected? I assume there will be no current there.

Question 2 - The other side of the lead has 2 brown and 2 black wires. Do I tie both brown wires to the battery positive and both black to ground? Should any of these go to the battery negative?

I'm an electrical newb, so I appreciate all suggestions.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Ecosse
Hi guys - quick intro:
posplayr referred me here to introduce the SH775 (we have exchanged a little correspondence over the years regarding Regulator Technology)
I've been long time advocate (one of early adopters) of the Shindengen MOSFET which I have always promoted as a reliability fix for high failure SCR Shunt Regulators - while recognizing does nothing for the stator reliability.
Generally has been the best solution from cost-effective perspective for those bikes/models which have high R/R failure rates but do not readily burn stators
However I do recognize the benefits of Series Regulation and waiting for suitable (read affordable!!) opportunity to get on board.
I recently picked up a Compufire 55402 for a great price and looking forward to doing some testing (although not much new to learn there after all the work posplayr & others here have done has done in that regard).

So enough on the background - just wished to offer my congrats & appreciation to those pioneering this recent application development (looks like the R/R itself has been around for a few years, but found new life in after-market thanks to efforts of various on this forum).
I have added this as a suggestion on my own forum thread & linked back to a couple of those threads on here. It is an excellent candidate for a couple of the Triumph models.
Excited to see that Shindengen has another couple of higher current Series models in development - we'll look forward to those making an appearance.

I did want to offer one tidbit in return however - Triumph has an OEM link lead that is only about $10 that connects to this form factor
- the Triumph Part Number is T2500676



It was introduced by Triumph as part of a retrofit kit to MOSFET R/R to plug n play into their std wiring harness (HUGE failure rate of SCR Shunt R/R on one particular model due to poor placement/cooling resulting in overheating and subsequent fail).

The price is incredibly attractive:
Even if the input/output connectors do not match up exactly with your application, it is going to be much more cost effective to replace those on the Triumph harness, than buying the Furukawas which are significantly more expensive!!
So worth considering - should be able to order from any local Triumph dealer or on-line
e.g. http://www.triumphmcparts.com/produc.../T2500676.html

Incidentally cheapest I have found currently for the SH775 is here $60 + ~$13 shipping

While researching, I came across this simulation of a 3 phase SCR Bridge Rectifier with varying firing angle - nice graphical display of how these things work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s24U0GaBx-o

[koolaid_kid]

I can't answer the second question, however:
Don't use bullet connectors. Either use spade connectors or wire them direct.
Yes, leave the headlight loop out of the loop. You don't need it.

[jsandidge]

bullet connectors bad?

I can't answer the second question, however:
Don't use bullet connectors. Either use spade connectors or wire them direct.
Yes, leave the headlight loop out of the loop. You don't need it.

Spade connectors are superior to bullet connectors? I wouldnt have thought that.

I'll ask at the polaris dealer about which pins should go to the battery and which go to ground.

[koolaid_kid]

Yes, they are superior.
AFA your 12V out, some connect one into the wiring harness like the OEM R/R and the other straight to the battery with a 20A in-line fuse.

[tom203]

I'll ask at the polaris dealer about which pins should go to the battery and which go to ground.

In case dealer gets confused..... this link should help

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1959620&postcount=23

[jsandidge]

different lead

That helps a little, but the lead in the pic from that post has different colored wires. At least I can now tell which pin will be + and which is -. On the Triumph lead I have, the wires are brown and black.

They also branch out to 2 wires each. That is why I'm confused as to whether I should tie both brown wires to the battery + and both black to the same ground or battery -.

[tom203]

Those Triumph wiring colors are confusing you ( personally, I think they are a poor choice), so just focus on the pins on the SH-775 and what they connect to. As stated, you can "branch" out the positive and negative leads; for example, the negative can branch out to battery negative and a good common frame ground.

[koolaid_kid]

As Tom and I have stated:
Connect 1 12V lead directly to the battery with an in-line fuse.
Connect 1 12V lead into the wiring harness just like stock.
Connect 1 ground directly to the battery.
Connect 1 ground to the common frame ground.

Tying them together negates the benefit of having multiple leads.

[jsandidge]

Thanks guys

As Tom and I have stated:
Connect 1 12V lead directly to the battery with an in-line fuse.
Connect 1 12V lead into the wiring harness just like stock.
Connect 1 ground directly to the battery.
Connect 1 ground to the common frame ground.

Tying them together negates the benefit of having multiple leads.

Thanks guys, I understand now. Electricals are not my strong suit. Sometimes I need multiple explanations to get it. Appreciate your help.

[520eek]

I am also about to do the same task ( if local triumph dealer can pull their head out..another story ) The dual grounds seem unnecessary since you are going to ground it directly to battery...but it won't hurt a thing if you ground it to frame as well, so that's easy enough for me to understand. The positive wires has me confused though. One goes to battery and the other positive lead goes to the positive wire that the original R/R was hooked to? Here is my dumb question...why? Where does that positive wire in harness come from and what is its function in the new R/R upgrade?

[tom203]

............. Where does that positive wire in harness come from and what is its function in the new R/R upgrade?

"that positive wire in harness" is what your old R/R positive output connected to. By still using this (assuming your harness is OK), the output from the SH-775 flows directly into harness and to items that need juice rather than flowing towards battery first. Adding the positive to battery with fuse is sorta a backup but it does let the R/R "see" the battery better.

[jsandidge]

succesfully installed

Happy to report that my new R/R is succesfully installed using the Triumph lead. It was actually quite easy thanks to the help everyone has given. I used one of the + branched leads to the battery with an in-line fuse, and the other to the original harness as was suggested. On the - leads, one went to the battery, and the other to a single point ground on the frame at one of the airbox bolts. The 3 other leads were connected to the stator, leaving the headlight loop disconnected. I'll report back tomorrow with charging results, as I've got the battery on a charger at the moment.

[jsandidge]

Charging great

So, I'm charging great now. About 13.5 - 13.8 at idle and 14.4 at 5000 rpm. Rev her up a little more, and she stays right at 14.4.

On to the fork seals!