Stator need replaced?

[Guest]

So I'm in the middle of cleaning, pulling covers getting ready for paint. I removed the stator today and I want to make sure it is ok to reinstall. I know very little about engines and charging systems, but the discoloration was concerning to me and I would like to know if this looks normal?

Thanks,

[posplayr]

So I'm in the middle of cleaning, pulling covers getting ready for paint. I removed the stator today and I want to make sure it is ok to reinstall. I know very little about engines and charging systems, but the discoloration was concerning to me and I would like to know if this looks normal?

Thanks,

That one barely got hot.






Get a Series R/R to salvage it or even better get a new stator and the Series R/R

See my signature and read all about it. SH-775 or Compufire.

[claygs750e]

Since I'm going to end up with most likely a lithium battery so I can hide it in the rear hump should I replace the stator or does it look ok to keep? I heard with the lithium batteries you have to be careful with the volts exceeding 14.5. I'm going to upgrade the R/R, but is it worth swapping out the stator as well? Thanks,

[azr]

That one does look like it was getting hot, hence the bubbling in spots. You can bench test it but that only does half the test, the other you have to do with the bike running. It's definitely the original stator so she's pretty old. You could chance it like mentioned and maybe your new S/S would save it or you could just put out the money for a good Ricks stator and be done with it. Charging problems are one of the major issues with these bikes. A new battery, a good R/R and a new solid stator and you will have years of reliability with the charging.

[claygs750e]

the stator you mentioned, is this a brand name or someone on here that sells them?

[tom203]

Ricks' Motorsports- one of many that sell replacement stators. But your stator looks OK (though to me it appears to be manually rewound). Run the tests, but opt for series R/R to improve things.
For comparison, here's a pic of smoked stator- note the BBQ color

[trippivot]

Test it!!! Don't look at it!!!

0~1 ohm resistance spec between the 3 wires 1-2// 2-3// 1-3

absolutely NO continuity from each lead to the iron core #1 #2 #3

Open Line (OL) if you have a digital meter.

That is a static test measuring resistance with the ohm scales


-- next is the dynamic test and that is done with the meter set on AC
it is basically the same and the first test but the meter is set differently..

1-2//2-3//1-3// and at idle you need to see 24 AC volts -- it needs to be nearly even between all 3

rev the engine to 2 or 3 K rpm... and you have to see 75 or more AC volts

that is how you do static and dynamic tests on a 3 phase ac generating stator.

[tom203]

You forgot to tell him that the dynamic test isn't the be all, end all, since the stator isn't delivering much load. Real test is to run it on bike .

[posplayr]

0~1 ohm resistance spec between the 3 wires 1-2// 2-3// 1-3

absolutely NO continuity from each lead to the iron core #1 #2 #3

Open Line (OL) if you have a digital meter.

That is a static test measuring resistance with the ohm scales


-- next is the dynamic test and that is done with the meter set on AC
it is basically the same and the first test but the meter is set differently..

1-2//2-3//1-3// and at idle you need to see 24 AC volts -- it needs to be nearly even between all 3

rev the engine to 2 or 3 K rpm... and you have to see 75 or more AC volts

that is how you do static and dynamic tests on a 3 phase ac generating
stator.

The most important part of doing the Phase B stator tests (those associated with stator AC voltage measurements) is to test for voltage between each leg and ground.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=174130

Revised phase B test file is here.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977567/dummy-load-scanned-pdf-may-14-2012-8-24-pm-649k?da=y

[posplayr]

You forgot to tell him that the dynamic test isn't the be all, end all, since the stator isn't delivering much load. Real test is to run it on bike .

That is if you have a known good R/R so that you know it is the stator if it doesn't work.

Otherwise the dummy loaded tests I suggested before are another loaded test alternative.

I would guess it would be a little hard for a non-expert to figure out if the stator is bad from looking at the AC with an R/R connected.

[OldVet66]

Looks like mine before I installed my Compu-Fire R/R. It lasted one year before it failed. Once they start to darken and bubble like that, they are on their way to failure. You can replace it now or later. Later might be out in the boonies somewhere. The only way to get an accurate test on a stator overheated like that is with a megger, and it would undoubtedly fail that high voltage test of the insulating varnish on the windings. You have already done the hard work of replacing the stator.