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Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

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    #46
    Originally posted by Gregory View Post
    Great Thread.

    I have a gs1100e that I just bought new LED turn signals for. I have the polaris SH775 on my bike already and my auto cancel does not work and I can live without it.

    So if I understand correctly ???


    Option A is to purchase a EP34 2-6 lamp flasher relay and it is plug and play after grounding one wire to the frame.
    or
    Option B is to buy load resistors and wire one in line with each turn signal.

    I imagine option A is more affordable and looks simpler -- any pros and cons would be appreciated.
    Option A: If you do not want the TSCU function then yes you can just ground the control line on the EP34.
    Option B: This is not really an option. Basically without a series R/R putting in LEDS will stress your stator. The ballast resistors eliminate that problem but also cancel out the main reason for going to LED (i.e. lower power consumption)

    Option C: I found a prototype inline relay to make your TCSU work with the EP34. PM your address and I can drop it into the mail. Install just like the picture shows.

    Comment


      #47
      Thank you posplayr much appreciated. Does the TSCU do anything other than autocanelling? My auto cancelling is not working already before the switch to LEDs.

      Also, when grounding the control line, do I just cut a length out and ground it to the frame.... and leave the other end of it cut?


      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
      Option A: If you do not want the TSCU function then yes you can just ground the control line on the EP34.
      Option B: This is not really an option. Basically without a series R/R putting in LEDS will stress your stator. The ballast resistors eliminate that problem but also cancel out the main reason for going to LED (i.e. lower power consumption)

      Option C: I found a prototype inline relay to make your TCSU work with the EP34. PM your address and I can drop it into the mail. Install just like the picture shows.

      82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
      80 gs1000s

      Comment


        #48
        Originally posted by Gregory View Post
        Thank you posplayr much appreciated. Does the TSCU do anything other than autocanelling? My auto cancelling is not working already before the switch to LEDs.

        Also, when grounding the control line, do I just cut a length out and ground it to the frame.... and leave the other end of it cut?
        Right now I do not remember the polarity of the control only that there is an polarity inversion required between the TSCU and the EP34. it is easy enough to test, use a clip lead to pull the "C" pin to ground or +12V and see what happens.

        if you are not going to use the TCSU then just buy a two prong flasher (between B and L). You might have to swap the pins in the connector and there is nothing else to do.

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          Right now I do not remember the polarity of the control only that there is an polarity inversion required between the TSCU and the EP34. it is easy enough to test, use a clip lead to pull the "C" pin to ground or +12V and see what happens.

          if you are not going to use the TCSU then just buy a two prong flasher (between B and L). You might have to swap the pins in the connector and there is nothing else to do.

          Thank you very much. The 2 prong is what I will probably do then. Not sure what B&L means but will google it.

          I hope wont be any issues with any guage lights not working in this scenario.
          82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
          80 gs1000s

          Comment


            #50
            Originally posted by Gregory View Post

            Thank you very much. The 2 prong is what I will probably do then. Not sure what B&L means but will google it.

            I hope wont be any issues with any guage lights not working in this scenario.
            B and L are two of the pins on the three pin flasher relay.

            B/BL is Black/Blue strip on wire color.

            I know the two pin flashes have been used successfully; you just need to fine the correct two pins in the connector.

            LEDs have about 1/6 the current draw of incandescent bulbs so there should be no issues.

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              B and L are two of the pins on the three pin flasher relay.

              B/BL is Black/Blue strip on wire color.

              I know the two pin flashes have been used successfully; you just need to fine the correct two pins in the connector.

              LEDs have about 1/6 the current draw of incandescent bulbs so there should be no issues.
              I just got back from oreilly auto parts and they had the ep34 for $13, but did not have any plug style two prong flashers....or would I need a 2 prong where the blades are cockeyed from one another? I guess I can order one online if I can figure out what kind to order..... or go back to the ep34 route.

              I have what may be a strange question: When I hooked up my LED turn signals (and also kept the stock ones hooked up at sthe same time) the LEDs only lit up half way. They light up bright when I direct wire them at the battery. Have any idea why that would be? I would have thought the stock light would act as a resistor since it was blinking with the LED.
              Last edited by Gregory; 02-05-2020, 08:11 PM.
              82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
              80 gs1000s

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by Gregory View Post
                I just got back from oreilly auto parts and they had the ep34 for $13, but did not have any plug style two prong flashers....or would I need a 2 prong where the blades are cockeyed from one another? I guess I can order one online if I can figure out what kind to order..... or go back to the ep34 route.

                I have what may be a strange question: When I hooked up my LED turn signals (and also kept the stock ones hooked up at sthe same time) the LEDs only lit up half way. They light up bright when I direct wire them at the battery. Have any idea why that would be? I would have thought the stock light would act as a resistor since it was blinking with the LED.
                Did you hook them all in parallel or series?

                FWIW, On my 1983 GS1100E I rewired the tail light and the brake light in common as the licence plate light seem plenty bright for a tail light. With two full bulbs lighting up that makes the LED Braking much brighter. I would also recommend a brake flasher in any event (flashes brake light whenever the brake is on). This is far more attention grabbing that just a bright tail light.

                I think i still have a couple of them; they go in series with the brake light.
                Last edited by posplayr; 02-05-2020, 09:23 PM.

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                  Did you hook them all in parallel or series?

                  FWIW, On my 1983 GS1100E I rewired the tail light and the brake light in common as the licence plate light seem plenty bright for a tail light. With two full bulbs lighting up that makes the LED Braking much brighter. I would also recommend a brake flasher in any event (flashes brake light whenever the brake is on). This is far more attention grabbing that just a bright tail light.

                  I think i still have a couple of them; they go in series with the brake light.
                  I just touched the ground and hot wire of the led light to the same connection point as the stock light. The stock light was bright , the LED half bright
                  82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                  80 gs1000s

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by Gregory View Post
                    I just touched the ground and hot wire of the led light to the same connection point as the stock light. The stock light was bright , the LED half bright
                    Check if it is 12V. If it is then see if reversing the LED changes it.
                    Put the LED across the battery

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      Check if it is 12V. If it is then see if reversing the LED changes it.
                      Put the LED across the battery
                      Yes I did try both ways. and yes it does shine bright when i go directly to the battery and not through the flasher circuit.
                      82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                      80 gs1000s

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by Gregory View Post
                        Yes I did try both ways. and yes it does shine bright when i go directly to the battery and not through the flasher circuit.
                        But you did not test the voltage at the point you were paralleling to the other light. It must not be 12V, because clearly if you apply 12V to the LED is bright.

                        The nature of debugging is you have to eliminate all possibilities. It wouldn't suprise me if you inadvertently stumbled onto something ; this is how it happens many times and you should not ignore unexpected results. Run them to the ground.

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                          But you did not test the voltage at the point you were paralleling to the other light. It must not be 12V, because clearly if you apply 12V to the LED is bright.

                          The nature of debugging is you have to eliminate all possibilities. It wouldn't suprise me if you inadvertently stumbled onto something ; this is how it happens many times and you should not ignore unexpected results. Run them to the ground.

                          You were right. I feel like an idiot.

                          I was only getting 8.6 at the light. I guess the battery went down with the headlight on so long check it. I have the tank off so I wasnt running it.

                          here is a pic of it running with signal on (doesnt blink yet because I havent got the 2 prong)

                          Do you think this 2 prong would work? ,,, says hyperflash corrector though and mine isnt flashing at all.
                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pin-Elect...h/131882737801

                          turnsignals.jpg
                          82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                          80 gs1000s

                          Comment


                            #58
                            That looks like it will work for the flasher relay, but you also need something for a fast flash on your brake line. I just decided to put one of these on my Ford Van E-350 rear (roof top) brake light.



                            https://www.galco.com/buy/Amperite/24-120F30DF?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords& utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYlTQtKVIXYEw9LaAZBRw9s9U0Ur1bUWw24fG iJ-EBs3VDFhTSTpOjBoC9NIQAvD_BwE


                            This is a cheap version.

                            Brake light strobe module works with LED brake or reverse lights. Strobe module rapidly flashes bulbs 4 times for 0.4 seconds, slowly 4 times for 2.6 seconds, and then lights remain on bright until brake pedal is released. 12V DC Operation with a maximum load of 1.25 amps. Weather-resistant housing easily mounts to vehicle with double-sided adhesive. Includes 6” power wires.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                              That looks like it will work for the flasher relay, but you also need something for a fast flash on your brake line. I just decided to put one of these on my Ford Van E-350 rear (roof top) brake light.



                              https://www.galco.com/buy/Amperite/24-120F30DF?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords& utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYlTQtKVIXYEw9LaAZBRw9s9U0Ur1bUWw24fG iJ-EBs3VDFhTSTpOjBoC9NIQAvD_BwE


                              This is a cheap version.

                              https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...BoCQEoQAvD_BwE


                              Thank you Posplayr ! That sure would be a good upgrade. I like the inline type you posted second...and found it on ebay for less than $3 with free shipping.
                              Last edited by Gregory; 02-06-2020, 07:33 PM.
                              82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                              80 gs1000s

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by Gregory View Post


                                Thank you Posplayr ! That sure would be a good upgrade. I like the inline type you posted second...and found it on ebay for less than $3 with free shipping.
                                This is the wiring diagram. SuperBrightLEDs is a reputable retailer. I'm somewhat surprised they are not charging more. The parts cost pennies, but the unit cost has to be less than $1. They could easily get $10 for the same box. I already have the other units so i will use them. The blink pattern is different but they do blink.

                                Comment

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