Where do these wires go?

[claygs750e]

Ok, this is strange. If I turn the key on and check the voltage on the fuses only the two top fuses show 0 volts and the bottom three is zero. If I jump the red and orange on the key switch all the fuses have 12 volts.

I tested at the O/W wire at the connector of the kill/run switch without the jumper and with the jumper and I'm getting no volts. But if I test the O/W connector at the harness to the switch WITH the jumper in place the middle prong shows 12v, without the jumper it goes to zero. Both outter pins show zero regardless

The solenoid is bolted on bare metal with a wire to another bar metal ground location

UPDATE: With the jumper wire still in the key switch, I connected a jumper wire in the harness connector to the kill/run switch from the OW to GY and it does crank. Does this still bypass the coils?

[claygs750e]

So my second attempt was the same, but this time I touched all three prongs inside the kill switch/run connector (OW to kill, OW to run and GY) and with the plug out I did see a spark. So does that mean the kill/run switch is bad since I'm seeing a spark at the connector? And is the key switch bad since I can't get any power without jumping orange and red?

[posplayr]

Ok, this is strange. If I turn the key on and check the voltage on the fuses only the two top fuses show 0 volts and the bottom three is zero. If I jump the red and orange on the key switch all the fuses have 12 volts.

I tested at the O/W wire at the connector of the kill/run switch without the jumper and with the jumper and I'm getting no volts. But if I test the O/W connector at the harness to the switch WITH the jumper in place the middle prong shows 12v, without the jumper it goes to zero. Both outter pins show zero regardless

The solenoid is bolted on bare metal with a wire to another bar metal ground location

UPDATE: With the jumper wire still in the key switch, I connected a jumper wire in the harness connector to the kill/run switch from the OW to GY and it does crank. Does this still bypass the coils?

Cranking the engine and applying power to the coils are two separate function both of which are required to start the engine and are independent the way you are doing it.

[posplayr]

So my second attempt was the same, but this time I touched all three prongs inside the kill switch/run connector (OW to kill, OW to run and GY) and with the plug out I did see a spark. So does that mean the kill/run switch is bad since I'm seeing a spark at the connector? And is the key switch bad since I can't get any power without jumping orange and red?

You are over complicating and not understanding what I said before.

Put the kill switch back together.

1. Turn on the ignition (or jumper it). ===> The ORANGE wire should get HOT
   
2. Turn on the kill switch ====> the O/W at the coils should get hot.

If that doesn't work figure out why.

If 1.) fails it has to do with the ignition switch.
If 2) fails and 1) passes it has to do with the Kill switch or power to the kill switch.

[claygs750e]

Ok...so I opened up the ignition switch and the orange had 12v going into the kill switch, but when I checked the other o/w wire leaving the kill switch going to the run button it had no power in the run status. I squeezed in a little screw driver to clean the contacts on the kill switch since you can't open it up and then I had 12v going in and out of the kill switch. I hit the button and it actually started and ran for a good solid minute and then died (that's another story)

So I went to hit the button again and nothing again, checked the wire leaving the kill switch and again no volts. So I was going to replace this ignition switch anyway since its pretty beat up looking so I decided to take it apart, splice the two o/w and orange wires together at the kill switch and then hit the button, but nothing happen.

I pulled the connector and checked and I was still getting 12v at the orange pin and getting 12v at the orange wire and plugging the connector back in, but once I splice the orange and o/w wire together and check there's no volts. So now I'm puzzled because I thought the kill switch was just a switch so if you spice the wires it's bypassed right??

I'm getting a new ignition unit tomorrow anyway, but any ideas why it won't crank over now?

[claygs750e]

So temporarily until I get a new ignition this afternoon I have the kill switch wires (orange and O/w) tied together so ideally I would think if I touched the g/y against ground it would crank, but nothing is happening. I twisted both orange kill switch wires together and at the ignitor I have 1v and at both coils I only have 1. I'm not sure what the problem is besides me messing things up.

[claygs750e]

More testing if I'm doing it right. I went on bikeCliffs site and performed the igniter test by Mr. almarconi and I'm not seeing any spark from the 3 and 4 spark plugs when I connect the multimeter up to it.

I wonder if I fried the igniter because before I was able to crank it at the connector to the kill switch, but now I can't and nothing changed.

[OldVet66]

It fires 1-4, 2-3 so that doesn't make a lot of sense (left to right 1,2,3,4 as you sit on the bike). If one and two fires it is ok. Your bike will not start or fire properly with 1V at the coils, so you are chasing your tail. Find out what you did to lose your voltage at the coils. Electronic ignitions need full voltage to run.

[claygs750e]

I have 12v at the orange wire pin on the kill switch/run connector. I have that orange wire twisted with the orange/white. Once these were twisted I took my probe and grounded one end and stuck the other probe in each coil plug 9orange/white) wire and got no volts. Is this the correct way to test the coils?

[OldVet66]

Check the coils where the orange/white wire is screwed to the coil. I would run a jumper wire from the battery negative for your ground wire so you won't confuse the reading because of poor contact to ground. It sounds like you pooched the kill switch. It is a common source of voltage drop. That is why a lot of us do the coil relay mod after cleaning the switches up. If it causes a voltage drop again instead of feeding the coils directly it is only used to close the relay for direct battery voltage and a drop in the kill switch is no longer an issue because it doesn't take much voltage to close a relay. If you were to jumper directly from the coil orange/white to the battery your bike would probably fire right up, but you know that already because it ran before. There is no magic here, only direct cause and effect. Whatever you did in the switch is most likely the cause.

[claygs750e]

I will try what you recommended tomorrow, but I wonder if I burned up the O/W going back to the coils? Yesterday when it did turn it over I was doing the same thing with the same setup as today. Yesterday when I had the orange and O/W tied together I had 8v at the coil and now none. Could I have a bad wire?

[posplayr]

I will try what you recommended tomorrow, but I wonder if I burned up the O/W going back to the coils? Yesterday when it did turn it over I was doing the same thing with the same setup as today. Yesterday when I had the orange and O/W tied together I had 8v at the coil and now none. Could I have a bad wire?

Sorry but you are the one nominated to have the fun. Use the volt meter and working backward from the fuse box or even back were from the ignition switch find out where you are loosing voltage on the O/w. You have all the tools.

O/w will follow the battery voltage and it will also change if you open the circuit. Regardless you need more than 10v bare minimum On O/w at the coils and ignitor to kick the motor over. If you can't get that you know why people do the coil relay mod.

[claygs750e]

Ok, so here's what I did today so far:
-Turned key on
-Twisted the orange and O/W together at the run/kill switch connector
-Ran hot wire from the battery to coil end of the coil plug with it plugged into the harness
-Ran a ground from the battery neg to the neg side of the same coil connector on the coil side.

When I touched the G/Y wire at the run/kill connector (orange and O/W twisted wires) it started to crank and shows 11.54v on the probes that are connected to the coil side of the plug on the (1&4) coil and 11.45v on the (2&3) coil.

What's strange is when I removed the jumpers from the battery I thought I would check the volts again at the coils expecting to see zero on both, but the (1&4) coil shows 8.3v and (2&3) coil shows zero volts. When I touched the G/Y to the Orange and O/W it cranks with sparks on all 4 plugs that are grounded to the motor. I also unplugged one at a time and each time it cranked and had sparks. If I had zero volts on one coil why would it spark?

So I don't get these results since I technically didn't do anything different besides test with the jumpers. So does this mean the O/W wire from the kill/run switch back to the coil is bad or maybe loose? If I have 12v at the O/W wire at the kill/run connector, but nothing on that same wire at the coil isn't that the next stop for the O/W wire? Time to open up the harness?

[Killer2600]

What's strange is when I removed the jumpers from the battery I thought I would check the volts again at the coils expecting to see zero on both, but the (1&4) coil shows 8.3v and (2&3) coil shows zero volts. When I touched the G/Y to the Orange and O/W it cranks with sparks on all 4 plugs that are grounded to the motor. I also unplugged one at a time and each time it cranked and had sparks. If I had zero volts on one coil why would it spark?

Posplayr will surely answer this but I'll just call it magic

So I don't get these results since I technically didn't do anything different besides test with the jumpers. So does this mean the O/W wire from the kill/run switch back to the coil is bad or maybe loose? If I have 12v at the O/W wire at the kill/run connector, but nothing on that same wire at the coil isn't that the next stop for the O/W wire? Time to open up the harness?

I'd recommend testing voltages without jumpers, your more likely losing volts in switches and connectors than runs of wire.

[claygs750e]

When I did a secondary test without the jumpers I had 8 volts on 1 coil and 0 on the other. I didn't think that made sense since the O/W just splits off to each coil so shouldn't I get the same? Also, since I have the entire switch disconnected and I show 12 volts at the switch connector shouldn't I have around that same amount at the coils since that's the next place the O/W goes?