Where do these wires go?

[claygs750e]

Ok, so I'm trying to get the electric going temporarily, but I must have something wrong. At this point I'm just trying to see if it will try to turn over at the solenoid.

This is how I have it connected right now:

-Starter wire (black) going to one post of solenoid
-Other wire (red) from solenoid going to positive terminal on battery.
-Green/yellow wire from solenoid into matching wire in harness
-Ground terminal on battery has wire straight to frame
-Wire (red) going from positive side of battery to fuse box
-Second red wire from fuse box going to matching red wire in harness
-Plug set of wires coming from fuse box connected to matching plug from wire harness
-Polaris R/R three wires connected straight to 3 stator wires
-The unneeded loop from the r/r through the headlight has been removed
-The clutch safety wire has been removed and connected to each other in the bucket.
-Other 4 wires from r/r go to:
--Positive terminal of batter with in-line fuse
--Positive wire in harness
--The other ground wires connected to each other with jumped to frame
-Every other connector is attached to the matching connector or wire.

Currently I have most bare wires connected using a twist nut temporarily.
When I place a screw driver across the solenoid terminals I can see a few sparks and hear a clicking sound from the starter, but it doesn't try to crank. Any ideas?

[tom203]

Try using a small jumper wire from positive battery to the solenoid green/white wire connection. starter should spin cuz all other stuff is bypassed. If it just clicks, suspect a weak battery (or nogo starter motor), but recently someone on here had bad solenoid.

Unrelated issue;you said "Other 4 wires from r/r go to:
--Positive terminal of batter with in-line fuse
--Positive wire in harness
--The other ground wires connected to each other with jumped to frame"

Not sure I understand the " positive wire in harness" stuff -are you splitting the R/R positive output having it go to battery direct via fuse and also putting it into harness?

[OldVet66]

Make sure there is a ground wire on the mounting plate the solenoid is bolted to. The solenoid body is the other side of the circuit to pick up the contact to power the starter motor and will not work if it is missing.

[claygs750e]

It's funny you said that because when I disconnected everything originally I labeled a ground wire with "solenoid" on it, but after putting everything back together I wasn't sure why I labeled the ground. I figured it was just a ground so that's one of the wires I tied to ground. I didn't think the solenoid mount meant anything. Currently it's just hanging and not mounted to anything. You think I should mount it down and make sure the mounting ground is attached?

[OldVet66]

Considering the metal body of the solenoid is the negative for the pick up coil---------YES. It doesn't have to go directly to the solenoid, but definitely to the plate the solenoid is mounted to. If it will reach a solenoid mounting bolt, I would put it there. I did the same thing when I first got my bike and was doing a little head scratching until I sat down and thought about it. Don't trust any 30+ year old bolted together parts to provide a good ground. If I remember correctly, some of the parts up there were mounted on rubber grommets, but I haven't looked in a while so I might be wrong about that. I do know if you lift the ground from that plate, the solenoid won't work.

[claygs750e]

Well I think I sorta fixed one problem and found a new one which is typical for me. So, you were right, once I grounded the solenoid it started to crank. The crank is very slow, battery is right at 12v, but at least it's cranking. So I thought what the heck I will throw gas in the tank and try to turn it over. After multiple cranks that sounded like there was no chance of turning over gas started pouring out of the carbs.

So, I've just rebuild the carbs with a stage 3 kit and walked through every single step looking at both write-ups on bikecliffs site so I am really confident it's done right. I also recently bought a new petcock, the one that has no dial that you turn with a screw driver. I'm not sure what setting I need to have this one when I'm trying to start the bike. Could I have it in the prime setting where it's filling up the bowls and then eventually pouring out? The gas stopped once I turned it horizontal.

[claygs750e]

Ok, so I've mounted everything temporarily, but it's not starting. I hear it cranking, but when I have one of the spark plugs out still attached to the plug and grounded I'm not seeing a spark from any of the plugs. I've attached a crude diagram how everything is currently connected and the schematic and to me it looks ok. I don't have any of the front or rear end wired currently.

What I'm doing now is taking a loose wire from the positive side of the battery and touching the green connector from the solenoid to the starter disconnect switch to bypass the ignition for now. Can I do that?

Also, before I started this build all the electric worked fine so I'm 99% sure it's something that I did as far as not having it wired correctly.
Thanks.

[posplayr]

Ok, so I've mounted everything temporarily, but it's not starting. I hear it cranking, but when I have one of the spark plugs out still attached to the plug and grounded I'm not seeing a spark from any of the plugs. I've attached a crude diagram how everything is currently connected and the schematic and to me it looks ok. I don't have any of the front or rear end wired currently.

What I'm doing now is taking a loose wire from the positive side of the battery and touching the green connector from the solenoid to the starter disconnect switch to bypass the ignition for now. Can I do that?

Also, before I started this build all the electric worked fine so I'm 99% sure it's something that I did as far as not having it wired correctly.
Thanks.

Everything looks good EXCEPT (see below)with the schematic assuming you have two blacks and two reds out of the R/R ; it is not marked
EXCEPT you do not need to run a Red to the Battery + and to the Red in the harness. Pick on or the other. The Red in the harness is prefered.

You need to turn on the ignition switch and kill switch if you want to start the bike.

The Orange will should go hot with the IGN key is on.
The O/W at the coils should be hot when IGN and Kill switch is in RUN position.
If not then powering the Y/G will only crank the starter and not provide the spark to get the bike to fire.

[claygs750e]

So there is two blacks and two reds coming from the R/R but I thought one went to the battery and one to the red wire from the harness. Do I just splice the two red wires together from the R/R and then splice into the harness?

[posplayr]

So there is two blacks and two reds coming from the R/R but I thought one went to the battery and one to the red wire from the harness. Do I just splice the two red wires together from the R/R and then splice into the harness?

You show 7 wires coming off of the R/R; What are the colors? and what do you have them hooked to?
Simply label the wire colors coming of the R/R on the schematic.

[claygs750e]

Attached I labeled the schematic and a picture of the aftermarket Polaris R/R I have. The adapter I bought has one connector with 3 wires to go to the stator and the other connector has 2 red and 2 black. I was told to directly connect to the stator with one connector. The other I was told to go to the neg battery and frame ground. The pos side go to the pos side of the battery and the other to the harness.

I tried going through the ignition switch, but nothing is happening. I have a jumper wire from the orange and red (having key issues) so it should be on. When I press start with the kill switch off and in run mode I'm not getting anything. That's why I was trying to start it at the G/W wire.

I know I'm close, but I'm missing something

[claygs750e]

Here is the Polaris R/R and I bought I believe a Honda adapter for it

[posplayr]

Attached I labeled the schematic and a picture of the aftermarket Polaris R/R I have. The adapter I bought has one connector with 3 wires to go to the stator and the other connector has 2 red and 2 black. I was told to directly connect to the stator with one connector. The other I was told to go to the neg battery and frame ground. The pos side go to the pos side of the battery and the other to the harness.

I tried going through the ignition switch, but nothing is happening. I have a jumper wire from the orange and red (having key issues) so it should be on. When I press start with the kill switch off and in run mode I'm not getting anything. That's why I was trying to start it at the G/W wire.

I know I'm close, but I'm missing something

Reread what I said before:
To start you need +12v to O/W at coils.

You donot need two reds going to two different places from the R/R. Tie both to the same place but not two different places.


I understand you are getting two different kinds of direction. You are going to have to decide who to believe. I have posted at length on all the subjects and have 30 years of engineering and a masters in EE. Decide for your self.

[claygs750e]

I'm definitely not questioning your knowledge, I've read through many electrical posts and your advice has always been the most informed. I was just saying the reasoning that I originally wired that second wire to the battery.

So I did what you said and spliced both red wires from the RR and tired into the harness and still nothing. I removed the jumper at the ignition and tried pushing the button with the key on and nothing is happening. Any other thoughts?

[posplayr]

I'm definitely not questioning your knowledge, I've read through many electrical posts and your advice has always been the most informed. I was just saying the reasoning that I originally wired that second wire to the battery.

So I did what you said and spliced both red wires from the RR and tired into the harness and still nothing. I removed the jumper at the ignition and tried pushing the button with the key on and nothing is happening. Any other thoughts?

Is O/w hot? It needs to be to fire.



If it is not cranking with 12v to the solenoid y/g check the solenoid is grounded.