Where do these wires go?

[posplayr]

When I did a secondary test without the jumpers I had 8 volts on 1 coil and 0 on the other. I didn't think that made sense since the O/W just splits off to each coil so shouldn't I get the same? Also, since I have the entire switch disconnected and I show 12 volts at the switch connector shouldn't I have around that same amount at the coils since that's the next place the O/W goes?

I hope third Time is a charm........ Work your way down the wire from the source through each connector till you find the loss of voltage. If you are measuring voltage at the coil realize the negative side will be high on low depending on the state of the ignitor wires. So as far as the coils are concerned o/w is the end of the road.


You are the only one (unless someone else is there with you) to chase down the specific location for a voltage drop.

[claygs750e]

I'm trying not to be difficult, but this is all new to me so when you say work through all connections do you mean the following path?
-Battery to fuse box
-Fuse box-O/W wire to kill switch
-Kill switch to run button
-Run button to split for each coil connector
-OW from coils to ignitor
That’s the end of the line for the O/W correct?
When I’m checking these connection I’m placing one probe on the neg battery terminal and the other probe on the O/W side correct? Since I ordered a completely new run/kill switch I currently have the orange and O/W wires twisted while I'm checking all this and that is ok? I just figured that if I have 12 v at that orange/OW section and the next connection after that is at the coils then the problem would be in that section. Am I thinking of this all wrong? Sorry guys...bare with me

[posplayr]

You should look at your schematic and print it out and highlight the path you are describing below. I added a few segments.

[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]I'm trying not to be difficult, but this is all new to me so when you say work through all connections do you mean the following path? [B]
This color means R
THIS color means O
THIS color means O/W

1. Battery to MAIN in fuse box
2. MAIN in Fuse Box to IGN Switch
3. IGN SW to IGNITION in Fusebox
4. IGNITION in Fuse box-O/W wire to kill switch connector
5. O/W Kill switch connector to run button - O
6. -Run button comes back out as O/W to split for each of coil (+) connector and IGNITOR
7. All three items above are split in parallel not series, so the end of the line is in three places on the O/W

When I’m checking these connection I’m placing one probe on the neg battery terminal and the other probe on the O/W side correct? Since I ordered a completely new run/kill switch I currently have the orange and O/W wires twisted while I'm checking all this and that is ok? I just figured that if I have 12 v at that section and the next part O/W goes to I don't have anything that the problem would be in that section. Amy I think of this all wrong? Sorry guys...bare with me

[claygs750e]

Ok I'm confused because the numbers I'm testing seem ok to me and I didn't do anything different. I had one probe on the battery ground and the other for testing. Here are the results:

Battery to MAIN pos bolt on fuse box=12.02
-fuse #1=12.02v (ignition on or off)
-fuse #2=12.02v (ignition on or off)
-fuse#3-5=11v (ignition only on, key off will have 0v)

MAIN in Fuse Box to IGN Switch
-red wire leaving fuse box connector before going into harness=11.2v

IGN SW to IGNITION:
-red wire connected to bottom of ignition=11.7v
-orange wire connected to bottom of ignition=0v
-orange wire connected to bottom of ignition “shorted to red wire=11.8v
-orange wire back at connector before fuse box=11.5v
-o/w wire at connector right before fuse=10.6v

IGNITION in Fuse box-O/W wire to kill switch connector
**Entire switch is currently removed**
Orange wire that goes to kill not twisted=11.64v, 10.4v when twisted with o/w

-Run button comes back out as O/W to split for each of coil (+) connector and IGNITOR
Coil (1&4)=11.5v key on
Coil (2&3)=11.5v key on
o/w at Ignitor=11.63 key on

So are these numbers ok? If so why are they so different when I tested the other day? I "possibly" had the neg probe in the neg side of the connector at the coils the other day and this time I had it on the neg side of the battery. Would that screw up the readings?

Also, why if I've not done anything different that if I touch the twisted orange and o/w with the g/y (run) wire that it tries to crank and all plugs have sparks. Yesterday, when I touched those same wires nothing happen? Since I have a completely new switch coming in the mail it's not a factor since I'm just touching the wires.

[Andyjd]

how to wire stator

i have a 78 gs1000 and need to wire the stator to the r/r and some other box not sure what it is. my stator has 2 yellow 2 white/blue and 1 white/red wire.r/r has red black 1 yellow and one white/blue. and the other box has one yellow and one white/blue. any help would be appreciated thanks,Andy

[posplayr]

Ok I'm confused because the numbers I'm testing seem ok to me and I didn't do anything different. I had one probe on the battery ground and the other for testing. Here are the results:

Battery to MAIN pos bolt on fuse box=12.02
-fuse #1=12.02v (ignition on or off)
-fuse #2=12.02v (ignition on or off)
-fuse#3-5=11v (ignition only on, key off will have 0v)

MAIN in Fuse Box to IGN Switch
-red wire leaving fuse box connector before going into harness=11.2v

IGN SW to IGNITION:
-red wire connected to bottom of ignition=11.7v
-orange wire connected to bottom of ignition=0v
-orange wire connected to bottom of ignition “shorted to red wire=11.8v
-orange wire back at connector before fuse box=11.5v
-o/w wire at connector right before fuse=10.6v

IGNITION in Fuse box-O/W wire to kill switch connector
**Entire switch is currently removed**
Orange wire that goes to kill not twisted=11.64v, 10.4v when twisted with o/w

-Run button comes back out as O/W to split for each of coil (+) connector and IGNITOR
Coil (1&4)=11.5v key on
Coil (2&3)=11.5v key on
o/w at Ignitor=11.63 key on

So are these numbers ok? If so why are they so different when I tested the other day? I "possibly" had the neg probe in the neg side of the connector at the coils the other day and this time I had it on the neg side of the battery. Would that screw up the readings?

Also, why if I've not done anything different that if I touch the twisted orange and o/w with the g/y (run) wire that it tries to crank and all plugs have sparks. Yesterday, when I touched those same wires nothing happen? Since I have a completely new switch coming in the mail it's not a factor since I'm just touching the wires.

The voltage looks good, you are only loosing about 0.5V.
Also if you were using the negative side of the coil for a ground, you would have gotten zero volts on one of the other depending on where the crank is in the cycle.
I'm not sure what changed, only what you were doing before seemed wrong.

[posplayr]

i have a 78 gs1000 and need to wire the stator to the r/r and some other box not sure what it is. my stator has 2 yellow 2 white/blue and 1 white/red wire.r/r has red black 1 yellow and one white/blue. and the other box has one yellow and one white/blue. any help would be appreciated thanks,Andy

You should start your own thread and introduce yourself. If it is electrical issues this forum is the place.

[claygs750e]

Well it's a learning process for sure. I will just pretend the previous days didn't happen and assume from here out my voltages are good. Once I get the ignition switch I will go from there. I really appreciate your help, you really know your stuff. I'm sure I will have more questions soon. Thanks again

[posplayr]

Well it's a learning process for sure. I will just pretend the previous days didn't happen and assume from here out my voltages are good. Once I get the ignition switch I will go from there. I really appreciate your help, you really know your stuff. I'm sure I will have more questions soon. Thanks again

In the end you will have much more confidence and enjoy the ride more.

Once you have it running, do the Quick Test as an integrated charging battery test. Report the results and well see how well the charging is doing.

[claygs750e]

Well I've tried to start her up this morning and she was cranking and trying by me touching the g/y wire to the orange and o/w tied, but then nothing. I tracked it down to a blown fuse on the O/W. I will go get replacement fuses this afternoon, but I thought about temporarily using the fuse from the orange wire with a green stripe. But looking at the schematic I don't see any orange with green strip coming from the fuse box so I'm not sure what that is. Any ideas? Also, any reason why I would blow the fuse? Could it be the way I'm starting it but touching the wires?

[posplayr]

Well I've tried to start her up this morning and she was cranking and trying by me touching the g/y wire to the orange and o/w tied, but then nothing. I tracked it down to a blown fuse on the O/W. I will go get replacement fuses this afternoon, but I thought about temporarily using the fuse from the orange wire with a green stripe. But looking at the schematic I don't see any orange with green strip coming from the fuse box so I'm not sure what that is. Any ideas? Also, any reason why I would blow the fuse? Could it be the way I'm starting it but touching the wires?

I suspect you are shorting wires somehow. There is no reason I can think of for the y/g to solenoid to blow a o/w ignition fuse. The o/g is signal and it is the power for all lights except headlamp

[claygs750e]

Ok so I took the fuse (o/g) from the lights and replaced it for the O/W. The bike was right about to start and it blew that fuse too.

So besides the g/y wire I'm touching to the orange and o/w twisted I also had a jumper wire on the ignition from the red to the orange. Could that jumper be doing it? I also have a ignition on order since I don't have a spare key and the original is pretty bent.

I also have a new spade style fuse box I was thinking about doing the upgrade on. Maybe it's time to do it since I have a bunch of spade fuses and no glass. I wonder if I should wait to start the bike until I get the ignition and kill/run switch to avoid possible shorts I'm causing maybe?

UPDATE: Went and bought some more glasses fuses, I will do the spade mod later. What I noticed is if the battery volts are 12.5 and I start cranking the bike drops to about 8v and I can maybe get 4-5 cranks and then I have to stop and let the battery get back above 12.5 or it barely tries to crank. It doesn't give me much time to get it started. Is that normal?

[claygs750e]

Ok so I think I determined that I have a bad battery. I connected my car battery to the bike with it off and when it cranked the volts never dropped below 11.5. When I took the jumpers off and cranked it within 5 cranks it dropped to 7 volts.

But like all my problems so far when I figured out one, a new one pops up. So now even though I have 11.5 volts at both coil connectors and the ignitor connector I'm getting no sparks on any of the plugs. Could I have damaged both coils in my troubleshooting process?

[JEEPRUSTY]

There is a test for the coils in the manual
basically you get he resistance readings for the primary and secondary winding in the coils and compare to the manual spec.
Manual should be on the BassCliff website.

[posplayr]

Ok so I think I determined that I have a bad battery. I connected my car battery to the bike with it off and when it cranked the volts never dropped below 11.5. When I took the jumpers off and cranked it within 5 cranks it dropped to 7 volts.

But like all my problems so far when I figured out one, a new one pops up. So now even though I have 11.5 volts at both coil connectors and the ignitor connector I'm getting no sparks on any of the plugs. Could I have damaged both coils in my troubleshooting process?

Not likely all coils went out at once. Make sure ignitor has a ground and the b/y and w go up and down as you crank. It seems like you have a short or dragging starter. The engine should crank freely and not drop the batt that much.