head light went out

[tom203]

Some 81's like mine had an on/off switch along with dimmer- by 1982 , models lost the on/off switch but suzuki chose to leave wiring harness as it was ( they just bridged connectors in harness). This,unfortunately, gets back to those multiple color stator wires that you just played with installing new stator. Not sure if the "suzuki guy" had you bypass these -probably not , but let's skip this subject for now.
Did you check out your voltage after you wired up new stator? You should get about 12.5 to 13 volts at 1100 rpm; at 2000 rpm and above, this should be at 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

Edit; since your headlight ain't working, your idle voltage might be greater than above. At no time do you want voltage over 15 volts.

[mandu57]

yes I have correct voltage at battery. I wish it had on/off. but no..no I did not record them but it was 13 something at high idle..ran wire for headlight. working fine but have to correct it eventually ...plus the bike is running smoother .I replaced the manifold clamps to carbs.. I think I was sucking air. because I noticed moisture around the rubber connectors..

[tom203]

yes I have correct voltage at battery.

Ok, that's good- got any numbers? volts at rpms?

[bbjumper]

You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers

[tom203]

You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers

Hey, don't scare him off- he was about to offer voltage results!

[posplayr]

yes I have correct voltage at battery. I wish it had on/off. but no..no I did not record them but it was 13 something at high idle..ran wire for headlight. working fine but have to correct it eventually ...plus the bike is running smoother .I replaced the manifold clamps to carbs.. I think I was sucking air. because I noticed moisture around the rubber connectors..

Engine warms up so charging is fine.

[mandu57]

its idle at 13.3/ higher rpm 13.9..seems high for idle.or is it OK. only have high beam with jumper. plus tail light on when key on ..headlight on when key on..is this acceptable??also do you know amp for all the fuses. I would like to make sure I have all I need for trip .just incase I need them..rechecked voltage at battery at low idle 12.4..dont know rpm's since my tach cable is broke...so iam guessing but when I idle it up to around 2000. 13.8..Is this ok??? waiting on chain sprockets. so bike is on center stand ,no rear wheel...it is ok the stator is working good and the r/r is doing it's job..it will go to 14v..but like I said tach cable broke so only guessing on rpm..also headlight does get a little dimmer at idle and comes right back up at higher rpm..looks great to me...

[JTGS850GL]

13.3 at idle and 13.8 @ 2000 is OK but what does it do at 5K? Do you ever achieve +14V at the battery?

[bbjumper]

You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers

I have no idea how this happened, I was on a clutch thread...

[tom203]

mandu57;

Your numbers are ok, at a low idle with headlight now on, voltage might be around 12.5- at least it comes up quickly to as revs go up. Your headlight is supposed to come on with ignition "on". Main fuse is 15 amp-others are 10 amp; get some extras and mark them somehow so you can tell which are which in poor lighting .
You did fuse your jumper wire to high beam,right??

Your charging system ain't perfect, but it's adequate; when you get to PA and have time, you can fine tune it! Good luck

[tom203]

10 amp is fine for headlight- only draws 6 amp max. Put your spliced in fuse real close to battery in case your jumper wire gets chafed along path.