Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Who says modern bikes are complicated?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by robertbarr View Post
    Here's a late model Goldwing getting an air filter change. It has to be disassembled just a bit more. This is mine -- the one in my sig. I've heard estimates of $400 - $500 from dealerships to change the air filter. Took me 2 1/2 hours to get it all done.

    But really, for a fuel-related performance modification like Joe's doing here, something like this is (IMHO) far better than pulling carbs and horsing around with jets & shims.

    In both cases, some access would be a friendly gesture from the factory...

    OK No wing for me. I sold a BMW and a Concours because oil changes were too hard.
    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

    Comment


      #17
      Is... is that... is that a blue Scotchlok on the left?


      EVIL! PURE EVIL, I TELL YOU!


      Some of the other "post-factory" wiring looks pretty janky as well -- blue posi-taps at the top right (these usually work OK, they're just ugly and bulky), and bare terminals on that relay on the right (you know, the one with that totally unprotected green wire leading to it just sort of draped across everything).

      But man, I hope you fix that Scotchlok before buttoning up. I absolutely hate those things.



      The harsh glare of a flash makes things look a lot more complicated than they are in person.
      Last edited by bwringer; 04-28-2014, 09:53 AM.
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

      Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

      SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

      Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

      Comment


        #18
        You are right, Brian. That is an accident waiting to happen. Yuch.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
          Is... is that... is that a blue Scotchlok on the left?


          EVIL! PURE EVIL, I TELL YOU!


          Some of the other "post-factory" wiring looks pretty janky as well -- blue posi-taps at the top right (these usually work OK, they're just ugly and bulky), and bare terminals on that relay on the right (you know, the one with that totally unprotected green wire leading to it just sort of draped across everything).

          But man, I hope you fix that Scotchlok before buttoning up. I absolutely hate those things.



          The harsh glare of a flash makes things look a lot more complicated than they are in person.
          All the above will be corrected. I have a decent amount of room under the seat to install a power distribution setup that is much more accessible. I fabricated a bracket, added a fuse block and ground terminal strip. I ran 8 gauge wire from the battery to the switched main relay, ground terminal, and from the relay to the fuse block. Here's what it looks like so far:



          All powered accessories will be wired to the fuse block with grounds attached to the ground terminal strip. Relays will be attached with heavy duty velcro for easy swap out in case of failure.

          Thanks,
          Joe
          IBA# 24077
          '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
          '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
          '08 Yamaha WR250R

          "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

          Comment


            #20
            A few tips,
            I would spray that terminal block and other connections with Detoxit.

            You have already done so, but you could get some nice brass ring lugs and shrink tubing and do a nicer job than those PVC crush style crimps.

            I would also solder the ring lung end of the crimp to make sure that corrosion cant compromise the conductivity between crimp and wire.

            In reality you probably don't need anything more than 12 ga; For a GS SSPB nothing is over 14 ga.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              A few tips,
              I would spray that terminal block and other connections with Detoxit.

              You have already done so, but you could get some nice brass ring lugs and shrink tubing and do a nicer job than those PVC crush style crimps.

              I would also solder the ring lung end of the crimp to make sure that corrosion cant compromise the conductivity between crimp and wire.

              In reality you probably don't need anything more than 12 ga; For a GS SSPB nothing is over 14 ga.
              +1. When I do find myself forced to use the crush style crimps, I still solder them and use shrink tubing on everything. Other than that, looks good, Joe.
              BTW, the gauge of wire needed is directly related to the length of the run. That is why 8 gauge is overkill for such short runs.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Joe Nardy View Post
                .
                ........... So I purchased a Flash Tune on bike cable, software, and maps. I had to access the ECU to add some pins to the connector..
                .
                Joe,

                Show us some of this stuff too.

                Interesting.

                Dave

                .
                http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
                Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
                GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


                https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Redman View Post
                  Joe,

                  Show us some of this stuff too.

                  Interesting.

                  Dave

                  .
                  Dave,

                  The ECU is too buried to even get a pic of it but it is just a black box with two connectors. Tuners crack the ECU and figure out what pins they can use to access the data magically stored in the black box and then how to modify the data.

                  There is a surprising amount of functionality that is controlled by the ECU. In the case of the Super Téneré, there are two drive modes, Sport and Touring. The ECU differences between the Sport and Turing mode determine the character of the mode. My Aprilia Shiver has three modes, Sport, Touring, and Rain and the difference between modes is significant. Generally the Sport and Touring modes have the same amount of peak power but the ECU maps the throttle bodies to open more slowly, making the power curve less abrupt. Other factors like rev limiters, fan switch temperature, injection timing, and ignition advance can be modified. In many cases there are different maps for different gears. This is the main reason I wanted to flash the S10 (shorthand for Super Téneré on the forums). I found that the stock flash restricts throttle opening in the first three gears, up to 50% according to the forums. Tuners have created flash maps that eliminate this throttle restriction and really liven up the performance.

                  I got my flash tuner software and cable from Flash-Tune which has very good reviews on S10 and ADVRider forums. The on bike cable comes with instructions detailing which ECU connector pin slots receive which color pins from the cable. One pin must be removed from the connector, connected to a pin in the cable, then a different harness pin is re-inserted in the ECU connector. Once this is done the software is loaded on a PC and maps are downloaded. The PC is connected to the flash cable via a USB cable. The software connects to the ECU and once you see 'ready' status you can flash the ECU and you're done.

                  The software also allows you to make changes to all the variables controlled by the ECU. I likely won't play with these much but it is nice to have the option. Here's a screen shot of the software:



                  I am by no means an expert on this stuff but hopefully my basic explanation helps.

                  Thanks,
                  Joe
                  IBA# 24077
                  '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
                  '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
                  '08 Yamaha WR250R

                  "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X