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    #16
    On a lighter note, she finally started for me this afternoon with a hearty kick and some TLC. Now just to get the carbs adjusted and I can take her for her first spin around the block in a decade.

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      #17
      Originally posted by TheDuke View Post
      Okay, so I ripped that b*tch off again this afternoon and it is definitely not engaging when turning it by hand. Like I said, I replaced the clutch with a used eBay piece and threw it all back together. What I'm finding is that there is actually some slop between the clutch rollers and the sliding surface on the gear...as in the diameter of the opening on the clutch is too big so there is no way for the rollers to engage.

      Could the part have been mislabeled and I got one for a different year or something?

      Now I'm weary about ordering yet another part from eBay but would rather not spend the $$$ for a new OEM starter clutch...hmmm....
      What is this? Should I plan to remove the starter or go after the starter clutch?


      This is what my started clutch stated to sound like on a 81 GS750E. Basically it would barely grab and sometime just spin. The issue is that the outer roller surface and the rollers them selves become warn. About 0.050" is all it takes (total) and the sprage clutch will slip. Sometime you can order the roller kit and it makes up enough clearance to get the clutch to engage, but it will not restore the wear on the hub.
      The best thing is to get a pristine clutch replacement or a new one.

      not mine but shows multiple issues.

      Shows how to repair and replace a Suzuki GS 1000 motorcycle starter clutch and flywheel Step by step
      Last edited by posplayr; 05-02-2014, 02:39 AM.

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        #18
        Worn "barrels" will cause your problem. The usual problem is they wear down a bit and will slip instead of jamming into place when needed.


        Here is a possible solution:

        Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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