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**posplayr** · 05-14-2014, 11:40 AM

Originally posted by Wallowgreen View Post

No, it's coupled noise on the input lines from the switching at the coils. The wiring from the switch runs right between them. These days the input to whatever you try to detect a switch activation with ends up being low voltage at some point. It's a job to differentiate between what you do want to detect and the noise that's present all the time on the input signals.

I guess you don't have a scope trace? From what you describe I'm gathering it is something like:

when the switch is off you see a low duty cycle signal between 0-12v and when the switch in on it is a high duty cycle signal again 0-12v where no false period is longer than say 10 msec?

That being the case I would want to detect duty cycle ( an average time varying quantity). Basically counting up and down cycles over a finite sliding window.

You can do that by analog integration with a low frequency pole (a few Hz) and operate on the minus 1 slope ( you said you did a second order filter which would be a double integration ). I would tend to want to do that by performing an averaging in software. So you clamp/current limit the voltage input to the 12v range mainly to protect the controller, and now detect duty cycle . No debounce required.

**Steve** · 05-14-2014, 12:58 PM

Originally posted by Griffyn View Post

I had a note cross the local hackerspace mailing list about a guy doing small-batch circuitboards online at circuitboards.com

If enough people are interested in (and can agree upon) a board solution, apparently you can get that guys to make you a few. I havn't checked out his site yet, so proceed with caution.

I have used ExpressPCB for some of my projects, and I like it. They have a design program that is not all that hard to use, then you submit the drawing to them, you have boards back in just a few days.

Originally posted by rustybronco View Post

I wouldn't go betting the farm on it!

It's just a small farm, why not?

.

**rustybronco** · 05-17-2014, 05:23 PM

Updated the first post with an 'almost' finalized design and description of how it is intended to work.

**Thsel** · 12-04-2014, 07:09 AM

Tscu

Originally posted by rustybronco View Post

Updated the first post with an 'almost' finalized design and description of how it is intended to work.

Why not just buy a new box??

**chuck hahn** · 12-04-2014, 08:03 AM

They are prone to failures...which is why he was doing the reworking with modern parts.

**rustybronco** · 12-05-2014, 10:28 AM

Originally posted by Thsel View Post

Why not just buy a new box??

Suggested list for the original unit is $460.28 discounted to $337.00 at G&S Suzuki

How many would you like to by at that price?

**chuck hahn** · 12-05-2014, 06:22 PM

That too....I sure am not cash flush to afford one.

**posplayr** · 02-03-2015, 05:58 PM

Bump any updates?

**blowerbike** · 02-03-2015, 06:04 PM

what's going on here?
i have one of these cigarette pack size metal boxes.
i'm sure it works as it was removed when the bike was only 10 years old...hmmmmm
good...no good...???? lol

**rustybronco** · 04-30-2015, 02:47 PM

Originally posted by posplayr View Post

Bump any updates?

Sorry Jim, I just saw your inquiry. Nope, been on the back burner since last year. If I get time I'll get started cracking on it.
Might make it manual operation only...

**Grimly** · 04-30-2015, 08:39 PM

You know, I'd not be bothered about a distance interface, but a simple time-out would do me. That alone would greatly diminish the occasions when I would leave a blinker going. Not that I ever do such a thing, anyway.

**robertbarr** · 04-30-2015, 10:01 PM

Originally posted by rustybronco View Post

Sorry Jim, I just saw your inquiry. Nope, been on the back burner since last year. If I get time I'll get started cracking on it.
Might make it manual operation only...

You know, one possibility that occurred to me was -- eliminate the whole ignition interference problem by running with a simple bicycle-computer style reed switch on the rear wheel somewhere, like alongside the brake rotor. It works great with $10 bike computers...