Which Lawn Tractor Solenoid for Starter Solenoid?

[posplayr]

This is far from a safe bet. From years of VW restoration, I can tell you that you will get more reliability out of blowing the dust out of a real german part that had been sitting in a barn for 5 years than buying a brand new one made in china and assembled in mexico. I'd trust a circa 1980 Suzuki OEM part out of someone's spares box over a new-in-box part made last year for a yard tractor any day.

I have disassembled and cleaned Suzuki relays and unless you manage to burn up a coil, there is nothing to them. So why people go to buy cheap junk so they have a project trying to figure out how to mount it, I don't know.

It is a lot easier to pull the solenoid apart than it is to pull a set of carbs apart.

[TooManyToys]

I have disassembled and cleaned Suzuki relays and unless you manage to burn up a coil, there is nothing to them. So why people go to buy cheap junk so they have a project trying to figure out how to mount it, I don't know.

It is a lot easier to pull the solenoid apart than it is to pull a set of carbs apart.

And I definitely agree with that. I've done the same with '65-66 Mustangs since 1970 and the originals are better made, not the plated copper of today in the Ford aftermarket examples. Only hang up being the lost of the rivets. But you can often resurface the contacts and have a long lasting repair. I've not been in the EZ solenoid yet, but I believe Jim on this.

[posplayr]

And I definitely agree with that. I've done the same with '65-66 Mustangs since 1970 and the originals are better made, not the plated copper of today. Only hang up being the lost of the rivets. But you can often resurface the contacts and have a long lasting repair. I've not been in the EZ solenoid yet, but I believe Jim on this.

The top of the solenoid is held down with screws, so the only little trick is solder sucking the solder blob where the solenoid oils comes out from the winding. I even think the shorting bar is screwed in place and I removed the screw and flipped it over virtually restoring the shunt to factory new.

[TooManyToys]

Much easier then the old Ford parts.

[JEEPRUSTY]

innerds of a stock solenoid.



These seem to be solid copper and not a p;ated part.

[chuck hahn]

Jeep..those are the posts the jumper bar shorts across inside to complete the connection. Selenoid is simply an electromagent when energized raises the center rod and the bar on top of the rod make the bridge. When the bar arches to the posts it will not stop cranking. And when the rod wont go up it wont crank.

[WilliamGLX81]

The top of the solenoid is held down with screws, so the only little trick is solder sucking the solder blob where the solenoid oils comes out from the winding. I even think the shorting bar is screwed in place and I removed the screw and flipped it over virtually restoring the shunt to factory new.

Yup I flipped both contact tabs over, and the solder-sucker tool took more out than I'm used to having to eject from it.
Tearing it apart was easy, and the problem is not the solenoid itself. Must be grounding.