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1000G starter just spinning

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    #1

    1000G starter just spinning

    So after 2-3 weeks of relentless work and putting money into the bike (tires, brake rebuild, carb rebuild, new battery etc...) the bike was FINALLY revived and we took it for its first ride today and it ran really great.

    I parked it for a single hour to go eat dinner, then went back out to start it up again. The starter sounded like it hesitated for a minute (like it was trying to push hard) then suddenly it just started "whirring" like it is spinning but not turning the motor at all.

    I REALLY do not want to take the carbs and air box off for a 4th time, but I need to know exactly where to go from here...still learning with this stuff and of course still getting frustrated...just when I thought I was coming upon a clearing, another problem smacks me in the face.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-22-2014, 10:14 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Not the carbs but the starter clutch/charging rotor has loosened and is spinning on the end of the crank.
    Easy fix.
    Tighten the rotor back down. Remove the stator cover (left cover and not the front chain cover), take off the nut at the end of the crank, check the starter clutch, put red Loctite on the crank taper and reinstall the rotor/starter clutch. Tighten the nut down to about 75 pounds. I use a rattle gun.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment

      #3
      Okay so the stator cover..not the starter cover (which is on top of the motor) the stator cover is just below the starter on the left side, yes?

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by motokid837 View Post
        Okay so the stator cover..not the starter cover (which is on top of the motor) the stator cover is just below the starter on the left side, yes?
        Yes
        Put a block of wood under the center stand to lean the bike the other direction so you don't leak your oil out.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Easier said than done, all the screws were very seized, after using a torch I got all but two. One screw head actually started deforming under the pressure, and the other one broke the tip off of my snap-on screw driver.

          Anyone wanna buy a 99% complete 1000G?

          Comment

            #6
            You give up easily
            Just sell the POS
            Or get a screwdriver impact and do it the right way.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by motokid837 View Post
              Easier said than done, all the screws were very seized, after using a torch I got all but two. One screw head actually started deforming under the pressure, and the other one broke the tip off of my snap-on screw driver.

              Anyone wanna buy a 99% complete 1000G?
              Were you using a hand impact driver?

              Nevermind, a 1000G will sell very easy.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                You give up easily
                Just sell the POS
                Or get a screwdriver impact and do it the right way.
                But you'd think that the 30 year old screws would just come right on out! HA. But seriously....I'll keep at it, they gotta come out somehow!

                Comment

                  #9
                  I've been working on these bikes for years and know what to do.
                  I told you how to get them out.
                  You asked me for advice.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    I've been working on these bikes for years and know what to do.
                    I told you how to get them out.
                    You asked me for advice.
                    Yep, and today I will be going and getting an impact screwdriver, thank you for the advice chef

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Chef,


                      I stumbled on this thread, and I'm working through the exact same problem as Motokid.

                      Looking at your instructions, do I not need the clutch assembly removal tool? I purchased one this weekend and it should be in today. I thought this was required in order to remove the rotor and access the clutch assembly?

                      Looking at the exploded diagram for the starter clutch assembly, I'm having trouble understanding how the rotor/assembly fit together.

                      I'm also under the impression that I'll need to completely replace the starter clutch. Is this not the case? What should I look for when inspecting?


                      Thanks again!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by motokid837 View Post
                        So after 2-3 weeks of relentless work and putting money into the bike (tires, brake rebuild, carb rebuild, new battery etc...) the bike was FINALLY revived and we took it for its first ride today and it ran really great.

                        I parked it for a single hour to go eat dinner, then went back out to start it up again. The starter sounded like it hesitated for a minute (like it was trying to push hard) then suddenly it just started "whirring" like it is spinning but not turning the motor at all.

                        I REALLY do not want to take the carbs and air box off for a 4th time, but I need to know exactly where to go from here...still learning with this stuff and of course still getting frustrated...just when I thought I was coming upon a clearing, another problem smacks me in the face.
                        ............................ hi it sounds like broken starter springs ,,,even if 1 is broken it will spin easy to fix regards oldgrumpy

                        Comment

                          #13
                          The starter clutch on the left side of the bike requires a special tool to remove it and do not use a slide hammer or impact driver as you could damage the crank seal, I removed mine with a tool borrowed from my local bike shop but to be honest they are quite cheap and seem to be more readily available from the states not like the UK where I am.
                          The starter clutch kit was very cheap and it only took about 30 minutes to refurbish with the biggest problem being the old bolts after which mine started and run smoothly with no rumbles

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by motokid837 View Post
                            So after 2-3 weeks of relentless work and putting money into the bike (tires, brake rebuild, carb rebuild, new battery etc...) the bike was FINALLY revived and we took it for its first ride today and it ran really great.

                            I parked it for a single hour to go eat dinner, then went back out to start it up again. The starter sounded like it hesitated for a minute (like it was trying to push hard) then suddenly it just started "whirring" like it is spinning but not turning the motor at all.

                            I REALLY do not want to take the carbs and air box off for a 4th time, but I need to know exactly where to go from here...still learning with this stuff and of course still getting frustrated...just when I thought I was coming upon a clearing, another problem smacks me in the face.
                            .....................hi if the starter clutch is slipping the starter motor will only spin,, its not a difficult job to fix ,,,you can buy the kits to fix the problem ,,its most likely a broken spring where the rollers are in the starter clutch regards oldgrumpy

                            Comment

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