So I then decided that it was time to go over my wiring with a fine tooth comb. Nothing seemed to be out of place and everything seemed hooked up properly and for the ground to the R/R I went straight to the neg. post of the battery.
This lead me to the testing of the BRAND NEW PARTS THAT I JUST BOUGHT.
So I did the ohm test in between the wires coming from the stator, they were 1.3-1.5.
Next I tested the ohms from a wire off the stator to a chassis ground, there were no ohms .
So feeling confident I started the bike in order to test the output of the stator. I put one probe to a stator wire and the other probe to another stator wire, it was around 2.X AC volts at idle (1100 rpm's) and 5.X at 5000 rpms. If I am understanding this test right, I want to have 65-90 (depending on what tech article I am reading) of Ac volts.
So then with the bike running I tested the output of the R/R from the red wire, it was about 5.x volts of DC at idle, 10.x at 3000 rpms and 8.x volts at 5000+ rpms.
Which brings me to the conclusion that the stator isnt putting out enough output, the R/R would probably work if the stator was putting out proper watts.
These are pics of the new vs. old stator
My question is, it seems to me that the size difference in the new vs. old is the problem.
Or can someone see something in the pictures that I could fix in the new stator that would make it work.
Admittedly I am no stator guy or electric guru, so I dont completely understand the wizardry that happens in the stator cover so I was hoping someone that was could help shed some light on this for me.
This is where I got the stator from
This is the where i got the R/R from
http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/el...ectifiers.html ..............Type 1
FITS MOST SUZUKI GS250-GS1100 '77-'82
WITH 4 INDIVIDUAL WIRES AND ONE GROUND WIRE
As always thanx for any and all replies
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