Checking the Headlight circuit on the 1000E

[Guest]

A while back had issues with the headlight not being on and no turn signals
then figured out it was the rectifier with separate regulator (Original) on the E

Turn out the Rectifier i bought (rmstator) is also a regulator being an R/R
today removed the separate regulator and the new R/R fits perfectly in the Regulator spot.

Need another long screw used the screw from the rectifier location.

Runs and charges had a good run to the Zion Nuke ( state park) plant and back

Also went through the headlight wiring
Black to headlight
Yellow to Headlight
Blue (violet?) to headlight From Dimmer
this appears to match the E schematic

green / White their are two appear to go the right handle bar ?

The Yellow stator wire is running headlight power
some place read replace the Yellow stator wire ? with a 12V power feed and run the relay so the low/ high can be on the same time as the High beam

Will disconnecting the yellow stator cause an other issues?
is replacing the yellow with 12v Direct power still the best Recommendation ?

[Killer2600]

A while back had issues with the headlight not being on and no turn signals
then figured out it was the rectifier with separate regulator (Original) on the E

Turn out the Rectifier i bought (rmstator) is also a regulator being an R/R
today removed the separate regulator and the new R/R fits perfectly in the Regulator spot.

Need another long screw used the screw from the rectifier location.

Runs and charges had a good run to the Zion Nuke ( state park) plant and back

Also went through the headlight wiring
Black to headlight
Yellow to Headlight
Blue (violet?) to headlight From Dimmer
this appears to match the E schematic

green / White their are two appear to go the right handle bar ?

The Yellow stator wire is running headlight power
some place read replace the Yellow stator wire ? with a 12V power feed and run the relay so the low/ high can be on the same time as the High beam

Will disconnecting the yellow stator cause an other issues?
is replacing the yellow with 12v Direct power still the best Recommendation ?

The yellow from the stator to the headlight switch goes back to the R/R, it's just a way to turn off that leg of the stator for when the headlight is switched off and the bike doesn't need as much power (no headlight). The headlight should have a ground connection and it's high and low beam should be wired via two wires (one for each beam) to the dimmer switch. A +12 feed from the fuse panel for lights should go to the dimmer switch to power the headlight. To make clear the stator does not power the headlight - it just wouldn't last with all the AC power.

[Recoush]

No headlight off switch on the 79 gs1000E at least not on my bike
Strictly hi/low and turn signal with cancel on the left bar

[Steve]

The yellow wire is NOT a 'stator' wire. That is the feed from your dimmer switch to the high beam filament in the headlight. Yes, disconnecting that will cause some issues.

The wires to the headlight plug should be:
Black (with white stripe) is ground
Yellow is high beam
White is low beam
It is possible that your "blue (maybe violet)" wire is a discolored white wire.

My version of the wiring diagram does not show any green/white wires. There are some green wires to feed the gauge lights.

.

[Recoush]

will have to investigate further, some thing is a miss guess i will have to pull the tank and trace those wires back. Thanks

[kochic]

From memory the white traced wires goes to the cut out headlight switch, it cut a phase off of the 'alternator' when the light are close.Easier on the marginal charging r/r original desing.
I removed the little plastic tab under the knob, I can run with or without lights on.
It served me well 2 years ago when a fryed the rectifier 1 hour from home with not enought juice in the battery to start the engine.I bump started it and rode back home quite fine, only have a little misfire on strong acceleration.

I bought a Yamaha R/R after this ride, what a difference.
Marc