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charging system

  • Thread starter Thread starter rippledub@gmail.com
  • Start date Start date
R

rippledub@gmail.com

Guest
1980 GS1000G

Good morning!
Three weeks ago I had my bike out on a trip, since i have had it about a year since I rebuilt the top end, i figured it was a good time to really open her up. I did. very nice.

However, a bit later I had slowed a bit, the bike lost all power and stalled. It wouldn't start immediately, but did about five minutes later. Then, about 10 minutes down the road i was stopped at a DWI checkpoint, as I pulled up to the police, the bike died again. Same story, waited five minutes and it started. Since then the bike has not had this problem.

I figured it might have stalled due to gas issues, so I went ahead and rebuilt my carbs which I had been planning to do anyway, I also adjusted my valve clearance. I got it all back together, balanced the carbs, and it is running better than it ever has!

However, on the test run my lights went out, it turned out the 10 amp fuse in the top of my fuse box had blown. I replaced the fuse. Since then I have had it burn out a few more times.

I am now on another trip around Northern New Mexico and Colorado. The other night at a friends house I started looking into my wiring to see if I could find anything obvious. Well I did. My three yellow wires between the Rectifier and Stator were brittle and discolored. I started it up, and one of the wires was running very hot. UH OH.

My friend suggested I unhook the wire and see if the bike still ran, it does, but it is not charging at capacity. With only two of the yellow wires hooked up the bike charges under 13volts dc. If I disconnect the lights the charging goes up to around 13.5 to 13.8 volts dc.

I am in the process of learning the testing procedures, and the initial tests are not looking good. Not sure yet if it is my rectifier or the stator yet. Or both?

My immediate question is this, could there be a connection between the fuse for the lights burning out, and the charging system problem? Could there be a problem in the lighting wire which would cause the problem, or the other way around? After all this I wonder if the original stalling was due to the charging issue? I want to make sure I have the system clean so I do not fry any new parts I may need. (will check all grounds carefully!)

Would it be foolish to do another two or three hours today? If I can I will be at another friends house where I could have parts shipped to.

So, running on two of the yellow wires, limiting my electric loads, and two more hours of riding, or is that stupid?

Any ideas or thoughts?
Thanks!
Mark
1980 GS1000G
 
I have a re-wound stator that I can get to you, but you should also replace the R/R.

The current favorite is one from Polaris, part number 4012941.

Click HERE to see the current price where I got mine.

.
 
wow, that was quick, I just may want you to send me that unit, but I want to do a bit more testing.

Any thoughts about running the bike another couple hours with only the two yellow wires connected? It seemed fine yesterday.

Also, I failed to mention, this bike has had a electrolux charging system upgrade . . . would your re-wired stator work?

Also, I just saw the electrolux R/R for 90 bucks, would you recommend the Polaris over this?

Thanks!
 
rippledub@gmail.com said:
I mean Electrosport, not Electrolux!
Click to expand...
Either way, ... they both suck. :D

You can probably make it for a couple hours if you start with a fully-charged battery and pull your LIGHTS fuse. That would be the one on the end of the fuse box away from the ACC terminals.

Yes, the Polaris R/R is HIGHLY recommended. It is a series-type regulator, rather than the stock shunt-style. Install that, and a new stator, you wil likely never have to change either one again.

.
 
Thanks, any recommendations on which stator to order if I need one?
 
uh, obviously you would recommend your rebuilt one right? lol
 
A lot of members here offer services at a better price than you can get elsewhere. Steve is one that offers rewound stators at a better price than you can get most places and he stands behind his work. You won't be disappointed. It's not a good idea to publicly post your email. It's not to late to change that if you can or create a new account.
 
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Why don't you try removing the three inline connectors first? Cut wires, slide on shrink tubing, twist wires, solder and recheck the charging voltage.
 
As I am on the road, i am doing repairs as i can, my friend only had enough connectors to redo two of the wires, so I currently have the third disconnected. It was the one which had gotten so hot it melted the insulation. I checked while I rode, and no wires were getting hot. Battery is reading 12.6 at rest, but seems to be riding it out.

Next stop is at another friends house, and he will most likely have more parts/tools etc.
If I need to replace stator or R/R I can order them delivered to his house. I have a week to spend near there at the Telluride Bluegrass Festival, so I can wait for the parts.

But I do need to get the bike to the area. It ran nicely yesterday, although not charging at peak potential obviously. I think I can get it over to montrose area from salida, I just hope I won't fry anything that isn't already fried.

Unless someone kicks in with a strong argument not to try, I am going to be heading out in a bit.

Thanks for all the help.
Steve, I'll contact you if I need the stator, thanks.

mark
 
Get a razor blade, wire cutters, sharp knife etc, cut off connector end(s) bare and twist the offending wires together. Wrap with electrical tape to protect.
 
Cut the wires back beyond the hardened melted insulation to good copper. Well twisted together with a small wire nut will do nicely for a temporary connection and maybe get the charging system working as well as it can.
 
The reason the wire(s) were hot was because they were in fact carrying current through dirty connections. You may interpret that to mean that the stator was working correctly. The dirty connections were your only problem (as far as charging and the brittle, discolored wires). By disconnecting one of the phases you took away one third of your charging capacity.

Reconnect all three yellow wires. Make the connections the very best you can. Solder them if possible. Expect 70 volts AC on each of them, so insulate them well from each other and from ground. Then you can start the engine and check your output voltage at the battery.

And then you can start looking for your other pronlem, the one that was causing the blown fuses.
 
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