Rectifier Question

[Anthony]

Problems with the rectifier? I can re-do the test and write down the numbers if that helps more.

[posplayr]

Problems with the rectifier? I can re-do the test and write down the numbers if that helps more.

If you want expert advice, you need to answer the questions. After you write the numbers down, post them.

[Anthony]

QUICK TEST Results:

1)12.35

2)11.88

3)12.8

4)13.38

5)13.93

6)12.72

This was done all from cold, haven't started t since yesterday.

[posplayr]

QUICK TEST Results:

1)12.35

2)11.88

3)12.8

4)13.38

5)13.93

6)12.72

This was done all from cold, haven't started t since yesterday.

OK If you read the Quick Test you will see I emphatically stated that it was a not a replacement for the Stator Pages and that you should proceed to the Revised Phase A if you pass the test.

So while you did pass, you are only passing a gate; you are not done. You probably have in excess of 0.5V of drop in your connections. That is marginal at best and only a slippery slope to further problems.


So clearly your conclusion and mine are different.

[Anthony]

Okay, that makes sense. I wanted to do just the quick test first, and then run the bike's current full tank of gas w/ seafoam to get the engine and carbs cleaned out with all that first. It sounds really healthy, with tappy valves, and all. I think after sitting for years only being ridden once or twice, it just needs to have a good on road riding. Then I will proceed with the stator papers (the adjusted copies you have posted) and see if the rectifier or stator is bad. I just wish I could get this stupid horn figured out. It's been a head scratch-er for sure. I've been discussing that in another thread.

[posplayr]

Okay, that makes sense. I wanted to do just the quick test first, and then run the bike's current full tank of gas w/ seafoam to get the engine and carbs cleaned out with all that first. It sounds really healthy, with tappy valves, and all. I think after sitting for years only being ridden once or twice, it just needs to have a good on road riding. Then I will proceed with the stator papers (the adjusted copies you have posted) and see if the rectifier or stator is bad. I just wish I could get this stupid horn figured out. It's been a head scratch-er for sure. I've been discussing that in another thread.

The R/R and stator are most likely NOT bad, it is the dirty connections that you will measure the voltage drops for when you do the revised Phase A tests.

You horn might get you killed I guess, but running with high voltage drops will definitely kill your stator at some point.

[Anthony]

So just dirty connections can cause the voltage drops? And one horn works for me, I can't run the dual horns for some reason right now. There is a short or cross somewhere, I just have to take the time to find it.

[tkent02]

So just dirty connections can cause the voltage drops?

They don't really even have to be dirty. Just a little bit of nearly invisible tarnish will create a lot of resistance.

[posplayr]

They don't really even have to be dirty. Just a little bit of nearly invisible tarnish will create a lot of resistance.

In fact at 10 amps, you only need 0.05 ohms to make 0.5V of drop.

[Anthony]

So will the stator papers fault guide show you were the voltage drop is occurring? Or is this a "fix all connections" kinda thing?

[posplayr]

So will the stator papers fault guide show you were the voltage drop is occurring? Or is this a "fix all connections" kinda thing?

All connections between the battery and the R/R. as a test go straight to it and you should see a rise in voltage. (test only)

[Anthony]

Okay, well that's more manageable. I can definitely solder all those connections and get rid of those old terminal connectors if the stator papers show voltage drops. That would probably help a lot!

[Anthony]

So I noticed that there are 5 different wires hooked up to my rectifier. One black (ground), one red, one yellow, one white/blue, and one white/green. Are the Y,W/B,W/G the three from the stator?