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New Stator now R/R Bad????
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostYour soldering is inside the case?
They crimp these connections because solder melts somewhere around 380F, if your oil is hot and a lot of current goes through the wires it can melt, besides taking out the stator blobs of solder can solidify and go elsewhere in the engine and raise Hell….
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Any of them without the silly plastic insulators will work, the hard part is the tool. A good tool puts a lot of force on the connector, the crappy ones won't don't do much except make it look crimped. Usually you can pull the wires out, this is why so many people dislike crimp connections, they've never seen it done right. What they don't know is that a good crimped connection is stronger than the wire. If you pull until something gives the wire will break, it won't slide out.
Other than going to Aircraft Spruce and getting something like this:
I haven't seen any worth a damn.
The problem is they just aren't shaped right. I have made do at times by grinding off a bit of the tool so it closes tighter and squeezing the cheap crimp tools in a vice to get more pressure on the connection, but that only works if the wires fit in the connector tightly. Also that's just silly to have to do that, someone somewhere should sell an inexpensive crimper that works.
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koolaid_kid
Those are 18 gauge wires.
How many poles does your new stator have?
Does it look exactly like your old stator?
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Originally posted by odl777 View PostWill my motor heat up to 361 F?
This is the point that solder will melt
No but the wires get hotter than the oil. They make a lot of heat. That's why old stators get black and charred. Charring doesn't happen at 360F either.
Wait, are you using a series regulator?
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