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New Stator now R/R Bad????

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    #16
    If it still works. Can you crimp a new wire on the old ones from the stator or are they too short and brittle? This requires a real crimp tool and real crimp connectors, the crap they sell at Harbor Fright or Walmart won't cut it.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #17
      Thank you tKent,

      I havn't tried my work from last night....but I did stirp and solder the new wires to the old stator wires. My solder job was kinda crappy but the wires help tight and I than heat heat shrink over the solder.

      Thanks again!

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        #18
        Your soldering is inside the case?

        They crimp these connections because solder melts somewhere around 380F, if your oil is hot and a lot of current goes through the wires it can melt, besides taking out the stator blobs of solder can solidify and go elsewhere in the engine and raise Hell….
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          Your soldering is inside the case?

          They crimp these connections because solder melts somewhere around 380F, if your oil is hot and a lot of current goes through the wires it can melt, besides taking out the stator blobs of solder can solidify and go elsewhere in the engine and raise Hell….
          Damn, if only life was not so complicated?

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            #20
            Yes, Soldering is inside cases.

            I guess I am off to hardware store for crimps!!!! Where is the best place to get some good crimps? The wires coming from the stator are really skinny!

            Thank you again for all your help!!!

            Mark

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              #21
              Will my motor heat up to 361 F?

              This is the point that solder will melt

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                #22
                Any of them without the silly plastic insulators will work, the hard part is the tool. A good tool puts a lot of force on the connector, the crappy ones won't don't do much except make it look crimped. Usually you can pull the wires out, this is why so many people dislike crimp connections, they've never seen it done right. What they don't know is that a good crimped connection is stronger than the wire. If you pull until something gives the wire will break, it won't slide out.

                Other than going to Aircraft Spruce and getting something like this:

                I haven't seen any worth a damn.

                The problem is they just aren't shaped right. I have made do at times by grinding off a bit of the tool so it closes tighter and squeezing the cheap crimp tools in a vice to get more pressure on the connection, but that only works if the wires fit in the connector tightly. Also that's just silly to have to do that, someone somewhere should sell an inexpensive crimper that works.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #23
                  Can also fold one side over the wire with pliers or a vice grip, then fold the other side over, then smash the crap out of it with a vice. Still I'd rather have a decent tool.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #24
                    Those are 18 gauge wires.
                    How many poles does your new stator have?
                    Does it look exactly like your old stator?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by odl777 View Post
                      Will my motor heat up to 361 F?

                      This is the point that solder will melt

                      No but the wires get hotter than the oil. They make a lot of heat. That's why old stators get black and charred. Charring doesn't happen at 360F either.

                      Wait, are you using a series regulator?
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #26
                        Hello Tekent, What is a Series Regulator? My bike is pretty much stock as far as the charging system goes.

                        If I had mixed up the Red wire for the Regulator could that cause any issues? Like if I hooked the FUSE red wire to the R/R instead of the Battery Red wire?

                        Thank you!

                        Mark

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                          #27
                          Series regulator basically turns the alternator off when the bike doesn't need much power.


                          The standard one runs full blast at all times and sends it's excess electrical power back through the stator, making a bunch of heat. That's why stators burn up.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            gotcha!!! Now I remember the word "Series" I read it serval times on the Stator pages.

                            Would you all recommend I buy a new stator and R/R from Electro sport? I am on 48 hour timeline so overnighting it may help me out of my jam.

                            Thank you!

                            Mark

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                              #29
                              NO, get a series unit.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                                #30
                                I looked at the Stator sheets and I called my Polaris dealer and they did not have any R/R readily available....this is why I expedited the Electro sport stuff.

                                I hope this was not a mistake.

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