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GS550E (1980) Charging Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter leebee1975
  • Start date Start date
L

leebee1975

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Hi,

I have a 1980 GS550E, and I am having a nightmare with the charge levels on my battery.

In my (very) simple understanding, there are three main components when we talk about charging a battery, and it's maintaining that charge; the charger, the battery, and the charging system ( stator & rectifier ) of the bike itself.

I think the charger I have ( streetwise smartcharger ) is working, as it does seem to put a full 14.4 volts in, which settles back to 12.6 volts after a short rest with no charging.

I think the battery is OK, as this seems to hold at 12.6 volts over a 12 hour period with no additional charging.

My question is, how do I know if the charging system on the bike is OK. Should the battery charge at idle on the GS550E, or does this only happen at high revs?

How long would you expect to run the bike, at decent revs, for it to recover the charge used to start the bike ?

Sorry if these questions are basic, but I am a newbie and just trying to learn as I go!

To outline my issue, bike was on charge all night, started in the morning no problem, rode to work (10 - 15 minute ride), parked up all day, started on leaving work, rode to petrol station ( 5 minutes ), filled up with fuel, would not start. Got a jump from a very kind guy at the petrol station, got home ( 5 minutes ), turned off, would not restart.

Thanks for any wisdom!!

:D
 
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If you look for any post by 'Posplayer', you'll see links at the bottom of the post regarding how to check out the electrical system on your bike.

He explains it far better than I would!
 
steveb922 said:
If you look for any post by 'Posplayer', you'll see links at the bottom of the post regarding how to check out the electrical system on your bike.

He explains it far better than I would!
Click to expand...

Start with the "Quick Test", report the numbers and we can go from there.
 
Do the tests mentioned above. You probably have a bad R/R and/or stator. Only proper testing will reveal which one.

However, from your description of the symptoms, it sounds like you also could have a bad battery. Unless there's a short or something really sucking down the current, a good fully-charged battery should last way longer than a trip across town and back, even if it's not getting charged by the bike. Both of my bikes had bad regulator/rectifiers (but good batteries) and they were good for a week of commuting between charges.

A voltmeter, on it's own, cannot tell you whether a battery is good or bad. For that, you need a load tester: something that can draw a decent current while also checking voltage. A completely knackered battery can show 12+ volts with no load. Some auto parts stores can tests small powersports batteries in addition to car batteries.

If you have a regular flooded-plate battery (the kind with plugs in the top where you can add water, and you probably do), then check to make sure all cells are full of acid. If they're low, you can top them off with distilled (and only distilled) water and throw it on the charger. May not save the battery, but it's worth a shot.
 
eil said:
Do the tests mentioned above. You probably have a bad R/R and/or stator. Only proper testing will reveal which one.

However, from your description of the symptoms, it sounds like you also could have a bad battery. Unless there's a short or something really sucking down the current, a good fully-charged battery should last way longer than a trip across town and back, even if it's not getting charged by the bike. Both of my bikes had bad regulator/rectifiers (but good batteries) and they were good for a week of commuting between charges.

A voltmeter, on it's own, cannot tell you whether a battery is good or bad. For that, you need a load tester: something that can draw a decent current while also checking voltage. A completely knackered battery can show 12+ volts with no load. Some auto parts stores can tests small powersports batteries in addition to car batteries.

If you have a regular flooded-plate battery (the kind with plugs in the top where you can add water, and you probably do), then check to make sure all cells are full of acid. If they're low, you can top them off with distilled (and only distilled) water and throw it on the charger. May not save the battery, but it's worth a shot.
Click to expand...

A volt meter is you have if you have a load; IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE A LOAD TESTER. The bikes electrical systems/headlamp/coils/brake light is a 10 amp load and based on experience should not pull a typical battery down below 12.0V. If the battery is pulled lower, then it needs to be charged. If it won't hold a charge, then replaced. pretty simple. The lower the voltage is the low the charging voltage will be.

Using the bikes electrical as a "load"was the first step in developing of the "Quick Test". The original stator pages say to not test unless you know you have a good battery which no one ever knows how to test except in this obvious way.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the info.

I will look at the charging links, as suggested, and most likely get my battery tested.....

Will update ASAP in case it is helpful to anyone else.

Thanks again

Lee.
 
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