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    #1

    Battery keeps dying

    Edit: Bike is a 1980 gs450

    So I did the quick test on my battery and got these results

    Key off - 13.35
    Key on - 12.8
    Idle - 15.2
    2500 - 16
    5000 - 16.56
    Key off - 14.2

    My problem is i take the battery full out and recharge it upstairs on a charger. Ill put the battery "it's about 2 months old" into the bike and after a few hours of riding and turning the bike off and on I notice the neutral indicator will start dimming a little. A couple more starts and stops later there is nothing. The battery isn't strong enough to start the bike and needs to be recharged. Ive had the battery integrity tested twice at advanced auto parts and both times its come back "Good but needs a recharge"

    So with that all being said I'm just at a loss. The one thing that i will say the guy at the store recommended me this battery After looking over amazon and a few online part stores they recommend this battery They're different and also the reason I changed my old battery out was because I left my bike "on" for a few hours by accident at the house and the lights drained it to death
    Last edited by Guest; 07-05-2014, 12:28 PM. Reason: added battery type
    Tags: None
    #2
    its OVER charging and cooked the battery from the inside out. rectifier / regulator is toast.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment

      #3
      What bike is this???
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment

        #4
        Sorry after all the I still forgot something, The bike is a 1980 gs450ET

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by bvailette View Post
          Sorry after all the I still forgot something, The bike is a 1980 gs450ET
          What Chuck said. Get yourself a good multimeter and get to testing. Bet you find your stator is about fried as well.
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

          Comment

            #6
            No reason to suspect the stator but as chuck said the r/r is toast and your battery is probably boiled out. Try adding water and see if you can recover it.

            Comment

              #7
              If it has boiled out and is not damaged too much just fill it with distilled water, it should bounce back after a little while, but the overcharging will damage the stator if it has been going on for long. The R/R doesn't ever overcharge if it works properly so that is definitely toast and should be replaced before further damage occurs. If the stator checks out after R/R replacement (a series R/R recommended), you should be prepared for it to fail down the road. Mine lasted another year before it gave up after the regulator failed and the battery boiled out.
              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

              Comment

                #8
                I didnt see a manual at Bikecliff for that bike, so maybe someone has a link??
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  I didnt see a manual at Bikecliff for that bike, so maybe someone has a link??
                  Center column, third from the top: GS400-450 '77-'87.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment

                    #10
                    My day to be so tired I cant read Steve!!! HA HA
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                      If it has boiled out and is not damaged too much just fill it with distilled water, it should bounce back after a little while, but the overcharging will damage the stator if it has been going on for long. The R/R doesn't ever overcharge if it works properly so that is definitely toast and should be replaced before further damage occurs. If the stator checks out after R/R replacement (a series R/R recommended), you should be prepared for it to fail down the road. Mine lasted another year before it gave up after the regulator failed and the battery boiled out.
                      Why does overcharging damage the stator?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                        Why does overcharging damage the stator?
                        It runs wild uncontrollably - sorta like a car on downhill with no brakes!
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                          It runs wild uncontrollably - sorta like a car on downhill with no brakes!
                          Say the R/R regulation is gone and the R/R is just regulating three phase. All of the output power is either going to the system or the battery. If the R/R were to regulate, we already know that the stator current will rise putting more stress on the stator.No regulation the current drops back to the load currents.

                          If there were a series R/R , then we know the regulation stator current is always just the load current.

                          I just don't see where the stator is more likely to be damaged under non-regulation. It is the shunt regulation that kills it, removing shunt control improves things for the stator, al though it is worse on the rest of the electrical including the battery.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I may be wrong. The regulators on my '78 and the '79 parts bike both failed by overcharging and boiling the battery out. When the one on the '78 failed I replaced it with the one on the '79 until it boiled my battery dry again also about six months later. When I went to use the stator in the '79 parts bike before ordering a new stator when it failed a year after the Compu-Fire installation, it turned out to be in worse looking shape than the one I took out of the '78. I don't know the history of the '79 except it only had about 5,400 miles on it when I got it, so I made the assumption the regulators had caused the damage in both cases. No scientific evidence. It could have been the regulator on the '79 had failed and was replaced, but the stator was already fried, and got parked at that low mileage. I'm sure you have a reason for questioning me, just going on cause and apparent effect.
                            Last edited by OldVet66; 07-05-2014, 07:20 PM.
                            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                              I may be wrong. The regulators on my '78 and the '79 parts bike both failed by overcharging and boiling the battery out. When the one on the '78 failed I replaced it with the one on the '79 until it boiled my battery dry again also about six months later. When I went to use the stator in the '79 parts bike before ordering a new stator when it failed a year after the Compu-Fire installation, it turned out to be in worse looking shape than the one I took out of the '78. I don't know the history of the '79 except it only had about 5,400 miles on it when I got it, so I made the assumption the regulators had caused the damage in both cases. No scientific evidence. It could have been the regulator on the '79 had failed and was replaced, but the stator was already fried, and got parked at that low mileage. I'm sure you have a reason for questioning me, just going on cause and apparent effect.
                              Well, that is clearly quite possible. If it was the stress on the stator and R/R that cause the R/R to fail first then, then it would be logical to suspect damage to the stator as well leading up the the R/R failure.

                              I was thinking that the R/R failure might have been sporadic, of randomly induced in which case there would be no reason to believe in stator failure. I guess it must be it is far more likely that dirty connections can cause the R/R to increase it's shunting, driving up the failure probability for both stator and R/R. It is not random but as inevitable as entropy.
                              Last edited by posplayr; 07-05-2014, 07:41 PM.

                              Comment

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