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After 3 days of intermittent Headlamp and turn signals, both finally stopped working. Said good now I can find the issue :>)
Start at the left handle bar switch, did you know we do have an ON /OFF switch for the headlights Yep they put a screw through the leaver and then put a stop on the bottom of that lever ( file off the stop) and you now have an on and off switch at least that's is true of my 79
So after a bit to remove the left hand control this goes to a 12 Pin connector and review of the Wiring diagram.
1. Clean the contacts and pads reassemble test and they all pass testing OK problem fixed (not a chance) that was way too easy.
2. Start looking for a new left hand control as a backup Found a Suzuki SV from 2005 with passing switch (project details on conversion future) SV even has a passing switch and same size collar.
3. Check for power at the 12 pin harness connector, orange and green well green has 12v nothing on the orange Ah something to test. Check the wire back to a 4 pin plug with lot of orange wires and verify continuity. The other end of the 4 wires goes to the fuse box?
4. Fuse box back when I 1st reworked the bike (yes checked the newbie’s list and this was at the top of the list) did that last year clean remove oxides etc... However when I opened the protective cover this time the mess was noticeable, WOW and OH crude, found the issue!
The top terminal (main) battery to harness (stator) Interesting did you know the battery Positive goes to the starter relay along with the power to the Fuse box. You have two choices on the red wires to /from the regulator and our fuse box. Ground goes to the engine and the regulator ground (black /white) connector the ground on the battery box, with another ground from the regulator to the battery.
The fuse end of the main power lead had gotten so hot it caused the solder to melt and the wire was dry (cold solder) the fuse for the Headlight fuse clip (power end had melted to one of the other orange wires the (orange wire itself was burnt off the terminal clip> Yea like wow lucky no fire.
Remove the wires from the starter relay battery and the stator red and the whole assembly comes off the bike Sorry no photos. Meant too but was trying to finish before the rain.
Clean and re-tin the wires and clean the spring clips (fuse holders) RE-solder the wire to the spring clips and verify clean and shiny and solid connections Reassemble and test and verify no further issues.
All lights and turn signals are working. So time for reflection instead of cleaning that fuse holder remove and replace with the blade style seems to me seen that suggested here before :>)
Start at the left handle bar switch, did you know we do have an ON /OFF switch for the headlights Yep they put a screw through the leaver and then put a stop on the bottom of that lever ( file off the stop) and you now have an on and off switch at least that's is true of my 79
So after a bit to remove the left hand control this goes to a 12 Pin connector and review of the Wiring diagram.
1. Clean the contacts and pads reassemble test and they all pass testing OK problem fixed (not a chance) that was way too easy.
2. Start looking for a new left hand control as a backup Found a Suzuki SV from 2005 with passing switch (project details on conversion future) SV even has a passing switch and same size collar.
3. Check for power at the 12 pin harness connector, orange and green well green has 12v nothing on the orange Ah something to test. Check the wire back to a 4 pin plug with lot of orange wires and verify continuity. The other end of the 4 wires goes to the fuse box?
4. Fuse box back when I 1st reworked the bike (yes checked the newbie’s list and this was at the top of the list) did that last year clean remove oxides etc... However when I opened the protective cover this time the mess was noticeable, WOW and OH crude, found the issue!
The top terminal (main) battery to harness (stator) Interesting did you know the battery Positive goes to the starter relay along with the power to the Fuse box. You have two choices on the red wires to /from the regulator and our fuse box. Ground goes to the engine and the regulator ground (black /white) connector the ground on the battery box, with another ground from the regulator to the battery.
The fuse end of the main power lead had gotten so hot it caused the solder to melt and the wire was dry (cold solder) the fuse for the Headlight fuse clip (power end had melted to one of the other orange wires the (orange wire itself was burnt off the terminal clip> Yea like wow lucky no fire.
Remove the wires from the starter relay battery and the stator red and the whole assembly comes off the bike Sorry no photos. Meant too but was trying to finish before the rain.
Clean and re-tin the wires and clean the spring clips (fuse holders) RE-solder the wire to the spring clips and verify clean and shiny and solid connections Reassemble and test and verify no further issues.
All lights and turn signals are working. So time for reflection instead of cleaning that fuse holder remove and replace with the blade style seems to me seen that suggested here before :>)